dazzystar

Hi All,

I understand that generally the more expensive the mount the better the build quality will be and therefore the better its tracking accuracy. Fundamentally I understand what tracking accuracy means but what I don't understand is all this talk about sub-arc second stuff. What does that mean to the lay person trying to do some astrophotography?

My rig is yet to see first light but should do very soon and I know that the mount I have (an EQ3 goto) will need to be upgraded but what I don't know is what I should upgrade to and what benefits (apart from generally a heavier payload capacity) I will get.

Can anyone offer some advice or point me in the right direction to a video / document that can help explain it to me and perhaps others?

Cheers
Daz 

also, the arrow on the saddle is pointing to 90 degrees on the graduated green dial when in the parked position.

Thanks. I thought for some reason that the dec motor should be on the right side when in the parked position and not the left as in the picture.

Hi All,

Could someone please take a look at this photo and tell me if the mount is on the right way around as I'm not 100% certain?

Cheers
Daz

Hi All,

With my mini pc, DIY autofocuser, DIY powerbox and ASI183MC camera on my scope I want to cable them all up as neatly as possible with just a single power cable running up the tripod. I'm looking for ideas as to how to cable everything up as neatly as possible. I'll be making my own power cables and will buy whatever USB cable lengths needed to keep things as short as possible. I can also design and 3D print any clips, etc. needed.

Cheers

Daz

4 hours ago, alexwolf said:

Please check Stellarium 0.21.3-bcc1d86 [0.21.3.1068] or newer - we are fixed couple issues for angle input boxes in the Location dialog.

thanks @alexwolf but I'm already on the latest version and have this issue. Here's a screenshot showing the location window with incorrect Lat / Long values. They are not too far off but not exact.

Hi All,

Despite numerous attempts in getting Stellarium to store my correct Lat / Long coordinates it fails to and I don't know what to do now. I put in the correct numbers, give it a name and that all works. I then go to configuration and click on the save settings button but whenever I call up the name I gave the coordinates are wrong. Can anyone help?

Cheers
Daz

Cheers!

On 06/02/2022 at 18:15, dazzystar said:

Thanks @runoffshed for the love!

and @fozzybear!

Hi All,

I understand the principles of light and dark frames, basically subtracting the noise from your camera depending on the temperature that the frames were taken but can somebody explain the best methods of taking them? I've a small Startravel 102 scope and ASI183MC non-cooled camera. I'd prefer not to have to spend loads of money on some light panel, etc.

Cheers
Daz

I can't see the scope being used for more than 3 - 4 hours per night in the garden. We may decide to go to a star party so would need to think about that in more detail.  I'd have a power splitting box (DIY) to deliver 12V power to each device from a 12V power source for neatness of cabling (just one cable from the ground to the scope instead of several). The Tracer batteries are very expensive and therefore a no-go for me. Both ZWO cameras are un-cooled and are powered by the USB ports on the mini PC but the ZWO doesn't give current draw specs but it has to be 500ma or less if I remember correctly as this is the max current per USB port.

The 12V 3A figure I gave you for the Beelink U59 mini pc is just what is written on the mains power supply it comes with and according to various tests uses an average of 11W with a 23W max.

2 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

You first need to know what size of supply you need and how long you are wanting it to last.

• What equipment do you have to run from the 12V supply ?
• How long do you want a session to last ?

Steve

Thanks Steve.

I'll be running an EQ3 mount (soon to be upgraded by the addition of a OnStep mod), an ASI183MC camera, An ASI120MM or similar small guide camera, and a Beelink U59 mini PC (12v 3A). Hope that helps.

For those that are interested, here's a pic of my 3D printed base plate and dovetail clamp for the Beelink U59 mini PC.

Thanks again @wimvb

It's actually the DEC axis that's stiff (still getting them confused!). Any tips on modding that easily?

Thanks @wim for the reply. I'll leave well alone then. I have ordered the parts for a OnStep upgrade so hopefully this will improve things a little.

Hi All,

I want to donate used astro magazines to local schools in my area to try and encourage more people to take up the hobby. If you have any that you don't mind popping in the post please pm me. They should be no older than 3-4 years and in good condition.

Many thanks

Daz

Hi All,

Apologies if this question isn't in the right place but I need recommendations of a portable astro 12v PSU. Can anyone recommend something they use?

Cheers
Daz

Thanks @runoffshed for the love!

Or has someone already done that?

Has anyone any thoughts of integrating on board 12V and 5V power turning this into something more like the Pegasus Powerbox Micro?

Great Julian. Keep us all posted!

I saw that video and may do that mod once others, more experienced than me, confirm it works and is worthwhile.

On 01/02/2022 at 23:49, wimvb said:

I have never really been satisfied how the EQ3 mount is designed. For example, the mount lacks proper bearings that support the RA and DEC worm gears. Instead it relies on a few plastic and paper washers for smooth tracking.

Last week I saw a youtube clip from a Swedish amateur astronomer who had removed these washers and replaced them with 2 mm needle bearings and cover rings. Today I received the bearings that I will need to make this upgrade, and since the forecast for next weekend doesn't look that good anyway, I might as well scratch that tinker itch and disassemble my EQ3-Pro.

Think I may do the same. Are you going to post a video or a review / before and after?

Hi All,

I'm not saying it's sticky but when trying to balance the RA axis the movement isn't smooth and often needs a slight nudge from my finger to get it move. Is this normal for a SW EQ3 or is there something I can do to help?

Cheers
Daz

Hi All,

I thought I'd share some finished pics of my DIY Autofocuser. This was based on Robert Brown's excellent MyFocuserPro2 project 

I cut down the original schematic as I had no use for buttons, LEDs, handset, joystick, temperature probe, etc. and just wanted to stick to the essentials. I 3D printed the motor enclosure (a NEMA 17 PG5), electronics box enclosure and bracket for my Startravel 102 scope. I have tested and all is good but I haven't yet taken it for a 'proper' spin yet as I'm still completing my setup. Here are some pics.

Cheers
Daz