Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b89429c566825f6ab32bcafbada449c9.jpg

emyliano2000

Members
  • Posts

    1,264
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Posts posted by emyliano2000

  1. 12 hours ago, AstroHa said:

    Hi everyone,

    I’m completely new to Astrophotography and am just in the process of choosing my new rig.

     

    does anyone living locally in Hertfordshire have any recommendations for the best areas with the least light pollution around Hemel Hempstead way? 
     

    I’m thinking Ashridge / Ivanhoe so it gets you high enough so leave the worse of light pollution behind - I tried taking some shots from my back garden and it was just consumed by yellow colour cast 😩 

    Any ideas I would grateful - found a thread on Hertfordshire skies but it favoured towards the east of Hertfordshire whereas I’m more West way. 
     

    thanks all! 

    Hello and welcome to SGL. 

    I'm doing astrophotography from my back garden in Bushey and with a lot of patience and integration time you can get some pretty good results. 

    You can see what can be achieved on my Web page https://emilandronic.co.uk/deep-space-photos

    Ivinghoe is indeed a very good location, if you can get your gear up to the beacon, it's even better. I camped there for one night and I loved it. 

    Emil

  2. 13 minutes ago, Spongey said:

    No problem :)

    This is the one piece of info that is yet to be official! Even if they are £50-100 more expensive then they will still represent great value vs. Astrodon and Chroma, especially considering their recent price hikes (providing they perform up to spec, of course).

    Just spoke to Zoltan and he put me on the list for the 31mm 3nm set

    Emil

    • Like 1
  3. 1 minute ago, Spongey said:

    I've been in touch with Antlia directly about these filters as they'd be the perfect match for the upcoming 2600MM / 268M (which I plan to buy).

    As you've noted all three filters will be OD5 rated (same as Chroma, Astrodon are OD4/5 I believe). 

    365Astronomy are the UK vendor for Antlia and I've been told by Antlia and 365 themselves that these will be in stock at the end of December.

    I'll be making an order for 36mm unmounted SHO filters when they are available! Just need the camera to come out too so I can use them!

    Cheers

    That's great, thanks for the info. 

    I will get in touch with Zoltan too. Hopefully the price difference between the 3.5nm and the 3nm will not be extremely high. 

    Emil

  4. On 16/08/2020 at 10:46, Whirlwind said:

    The difference in cost likely comes from the more relaxed tolerances. The Antlia filters are 'only' OD3 offband (i.e. they allow up to 0.1% transmission outside of the the targeted filter range).  In addition their transmission is >88%.  In comparison the Chroma and Astrodons are OD4 (0.01% transmission max outside of the targeted filter range) and have about a 98% transmission level.  

    For most targets this probably doesn't make much difference but around very bright stars it may be a bit more noticeable (especially in refracting systems where the correction will be worse compared to a reflector).  The image might also be a bit fainter / need longer exposures to compensate for the slightly reduced signal but would probably only be noticeable in the longest exposures etc.

    Sorry to bring this topic back. Antlia is coming out with the 3nm pro versions rated OD5 and much higher transmission levels. 

    Can't find anyone selling in the UK but in the US Agena astro has the 3nm Ha in stock. 

    https://agenaastro.com/antlia-3-0nm-narrowband-h-alpha-ha-pro-imaging-filter-2-mounted.html

    Emil

  5. I was planning to add more data to this beautiful cluster but with the horrible weather that we have here in the UK, I just couldn't find the time so I processed the little data that I managed to gather on it.

    This is 5x3min Luminance and 2x3min for each R, G and B, so only 33 min in total with the 6" RC reduced at 1027mm and the QHY163M.

    I used the Star Spike Pro 4 in photoshop to enhance the spikes.

    I think it looks great, what do you think?

    Emil

    M36-LRGB.png.thumb.png.59419b85d9580bd1aa87ea84c88f26a1.png

     

    • Like 7
  6. 15 minutes ago, Notty said:

    I’m with you and I miss my reflector for that reason only, but I didn’t know you could add diff spikes that’s awesome! Mind telling me how you do it?

    I have a RC now that's giving me some pretty spikes 😁

    There is a plugin for photoshop that I use. It's called StarSpikes Pro 4 from Pro Digital software. It's actually on sale now. 

    Emil

  7. Call it HOO or HaRGB, I don't really care, the Cave nebula, shot with a TS65, ASI294MC, 158x300sec Ha and 100x300sec Tri-band.

    I didn't extract the Ha and Oiii from the Tri-band shots and I used it like I would use a normal RGB and added the Ha on the red channel and a little bit as luminance.

    Happy with how it looks.  A lot of people might not like it but I added some artificial star spikes (I just love star spikes and I think that if you do it carefully, they look very real :) )

    Emil

    1842377692_CavenebulaHOO(half).thumb.png.a4ddf5689ed8ea36ef0df9b4b800e88f.png

     

    • Like 8
  8. 38 minutes ago, MartinB said:

    You've got some great detail in the image Emil.  Well done on such a nice capture of a challenging target.

    Thank you Martin. I only wish I would have better sky condition and adequate equipment for targets like this.

    Emil

  9. NGC 5005 (crop out of a larger photo)

    310x120sec Luminance (Baader neodymium) 
    150x120sec for each RGB

    Total integration time 25 hours and 20 minutes

    Stacked in AstroPixel Processor and processed in Pixinsight and Photoshop CC 2020

    Emil

    1676284920_NGC5005LRGBcopy(watermark).thumb.png.824e773daf8d718ec0838696fec856a8.png

    • Like 7
  10. I only managed to capture 27x300sec Ha last week but with the 11x300sec captured in February and the 22x300sec RGB shot in 2017, I put together this HaLRGB photo of the horsehead nebula and the other jewels around Alnitak.
    I will probably shoot some more RGB if the weather improves and the moon is not too bright, but I was very curious how it would come out with what I already have and this is it. I think it's not too bad for 5 hours total integration time.
    What do you think?
    More details on my astrobin account : https://www.astrobin.com/5wx4nc/C/
    Emil
     
    Horsehead_LHaRGB-(watermark).png.thumb.png.375a3a2f46b3ab09f336f17e3713070f.png
     
    Horsehead_LHaRGB_watermark_png_Annotated.thumb.png.3570f96dddaad7298b782d04e1ca2905.png
    • Like 29
  11. 43 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

    automated setup

    I don't have an automated obsy but every time I go on a trip to dark skies with my eq3, travel setup, I leave the eq6 uncovered to control it from my dark skies location and if I forget to unplug and plug back in the usb cable, I'm in trouble. It happened once and luckily my wife was at home to the rescue 😁

    Emil

    • Haha 1
  12. I'm thinking that it might have something to do with the usb port on the mini pc where the filterwheel is connected. 

    I'm having the problem when the sx is on my eq6 setup. The wheel is connected to an anker powered usb hub and the hub to the mini pc. 

    On the other hand when I put it on my eq3 setup is doesn't cause this problem and connects every time. On the eq3 setup I'm using a similar anker powered usb hub as on the eq6 setup but it's connected to a different usb port on the mini pc. 

  13. Hello guys. 

    I'm after some help for the spacing of the CCDT67 on my RC6. 

    I've been looking online for some answers and I found the manual and a topic on cloudy nights about it but I'm wondering if I'm doing it right. 

    The manual says that in order to have a reduction of 0.67x, the spacing needs to be 85mm.

    I tried that and the stars on the edges and in the corners look horrible. I tried more than 85 with the same results. 

    Screenshot_20201022_225619.thumb.jpg.880307518a2cf02076896da96bebe815.jpg

    The camera that I'm using it with is a qhy163m with a 4/3 inch sensor. 

    The guy on cloudy nights was saying that he got the best results with a reduction of 0.75x 

    Using the formula given in the manual, I worked out that the distance from the sensor should be 76.25mm {(305-76.25)/305=0.75

    Because the CCDT67 takes up 16mm of the distance and the sensor in 6.5mm deep, I could barely make up the 53.75mm (sx filterwheel, OAG and a few small spacers) needed to get the 0.75x reduction. 

    Is this the right way to do it? 

    Now, with my 4/3 inch (33.87mm) sensor and a reduction of 0.75x, following the manual, I should have a fully illuminated circle of 33mm. 

    Would my stars be better now or should I try to get a 33.87mm fully illuminated circle? Are the star shapes on the edges and corners guided by the fully illuminated circle? 

    The guy on cloudy nights posted a photo shot with an APS-C sensor and 0.75x reduction. Here's the link. 

    https://www.astrobin.com/237518/?nc=user

    Emil

     

  14. On 16/10/2020 at 00:00, Adreneline said:

    I got pretty fed up with PHD2 deciding to stop imaging and park the OTA because it had lost sight of a guide star. 

    I have sgp set to retry every 2 minutes for one and a half hours to try and avoid that. 

    On 16/10/2020 at 00:12, Adreneline said:

    Perhaps a blend of the two works better

    I love it, looks great in my opinion 😍😍

    Emil

    • Thanks 1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.