alacant

Create an empty folder. Change the working directory to that folder. Siril -> Conversion Hit the '+' button Select the processed files you want from the first session without the .seq file. Hit the '+' button Select the processed files you want from the first session without the .seq file. Give the sequence a name hit 'Convert'. --- --- --- You now have a sequence loaded with all the frames. HTH

Yeah, I'm sure it has, and a deeper red too. The canon alwAys seems orange. I see you used a 200pds. That's 1000mm (?) so you're closer than I. That's a good idea for the size of this. I've nothing over 750mm ATM. I've a 200 f4 maybe for the weekend but that's only gonna give me another 50mm. Worth a try maybe.

Thanks. Yeah, as I suspected. Your nebula extends over a far greater zone than mine. Lovely image.

Hi and thanks for your comment. Could you share your 4 hour version? Cheers

Oops. Sorry. I'll change the title. Thanks.

Hi everyone Another target to tick for full moon nights. This one was found by chance, scouring kstars' map as far away from the moon as possible. I was surprised how much nebula was picked up under such conditions. There's even a bit of blue. Please post if you've any experience of this type of target; I've an idea it extends far beyond that which I've captured and I've never had much luck with them. This was 2 hours in 4 minute frames. A nice change from 'Cygnus red'! Thanks for looking and clear skies. eos700d @ ISO800 on a 6" f5 Newtonian.

I post here because I get good feedback and advice. Elsewhere descends into a useless (for me) discussion on hardware! I'm sorry you feel my posts unfair. I'll remove it. Cheers

Removed.

Ah, OK. It comes with a 1.25 to c-mount adapter. To use it as a webcam, just fit a c-mount lens and adjust the gain to ambient. HTH

What are you using to form an image? To what optical device is it connected? Usually you'd use a telescope or a camera lens. Cheers

The database contains information about star colours. Get this right to begin with and you then have a basis for the colour. The best way to understand is to try it. The software is freely available and free of charge. Don't know what software you use.... Cheers

astrometry.net

You can use any photometric database. I think this was Simbad. That corrects the stars and the background close to the correct colour. Any stretch will then honour hue relative to this. Colour is I find the most challenging part of processing. HTH

Excellent effort. If you like galaxies, I'd stay exactly where you are. It looks miserable when you've a small blob in the middle of a vast expanse of sky. With a dslr, best to lose the darks and take bias along with flats. Dither between light frames and stack with a clipping algoithm. Darks will introduce more noise, as you're finding. The dither will control the noise considerably. FWIW, I was relieved when my trial of PI expired;) Cheers and look forward to some more galaxy shots.

Mmm. It also suggests... For eqmod it should be unchecked but you say you updated the fw, so whatever it's set at, set it to the opposite and try again. Cheers.

Hi The debug log gives some good clues: grep meridian PHD2_DebugLog_2020-08-03_222402.txt 22:45:15.720 00.000 3984 Alert: PHD2 is not able to make sufficient corrections in Dec. If you have just done a meridian flip, check to see if the 'Reverse Dec output option' on the Advanced Dialog guiding tab is wrong. Otherwise, check for cable snags, try re-doing your calibration, and check for problems with the mount mechanics. HTH

Hi it's unlikely that tutorials will cover the type of light pollution and severity of the same you have. Whilst they maybe a good place to start to get a hand for the basics, it's really down to you to get to grips with the software. That most likely means hands on. Even better if you can get along to an astro club and watch someone processing or if lock-down still prevents, zoom share with someone. It's much quicker to get started that way. In this case, I cropped it. Next time, find a site away from artificial light and make sure that the camera field of view is what you want and does include e.g. trees or buildings. you'll see that you missed the North America Nebula but hey, for only 5 minutes exposure, this is a fine start. @happy-kat's post here gives you some guidelines for exposure for your next attempt. HTH and post back the stack with a longer exposure when you get the chance

OK. No problem. Just stack the lot:)

OK. There's a big artifact along the bottom edge. Try to remove those frames first.

The stack, the whole stack and nothing but the stack. Not the stack with you having done something to it. HTH

No. Has to be linear:

Ah, ok. If your image is with the reducer, already, then probably the only way is to cut off a chunk around the edges with a smaller sensor. Have you tried without the reducer? Cheers.

Hi All the data seems to have been removed from your .jpg. Could you post -a link to- the stack you made? I'm sure there'll be a bit more to be had from 600 frames although 20minutes isn't long enough to get the result you're after. For that you'll need hours of data. The easiest way is to guide your camera. 600 1 minute frames and you'll be at the level you're aiming at;) Cheers

hi The camera is fine. To get a dedicated astro-camera with the same sized sensor is gonna cost you €silly and anything more affordable will have a miserably small sensor, cutting down your field of view significantly. This one gives you the same field as your 1100. One thing which would improve your 1100 significantly is to remove the filter on the sensor which blocks wavelengths of light such as those present in the Pacman Nebula. This guy does it for a small fee. I don't think it's possible to flatten the field edge to edge on with a c6 but this will make things better. The disadvantage is that you lose a lot of focal length, the reducer brings it down to something like 900mm. You will also have to take very accurately calibrated flat frames whilst using it. There is also some discussion (CN I think) about using a refractor ff, but i don't have time to find it ATM. The ff should act withour reducing the focal length so you can still get close on those nebulae. Maybe borrow one from your local astro club an have a go? I think they work fine. HTH

Hi Considering you used an old camera which has not been modified this is an excellent effort. Your technique with this telescope is a lot better than i ever managed with similar. There is some distortion around the edges which a field flattener may help with. I had a go with a big hammer at the colour and the stars. with a bit more time, this could be a nice image, especially if you took more frames. HTH