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Filroden

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Everything posted by Filroden

  1. Both are great. I cannot believe how clear the nebulosity around M4 is with so few subs. I'm so jealous. I must have taken 50-100 subs of M45 and not a whisper. Well done! Likewise, you've got the core of M13 captured - you can see the cross of the propellor (I always think of Star Wars and crossed light sabres rather than a blimp coming towards me with a propellor at its nose). You must have very dark skies? That will really help you capture detail with short subs.
  2. I checked my subs and my camera went from 27*C down to 16*C over 30 minutes, which probably explains why the darks didn't work last night. I probably need to wait longer before imaging. I find the camera settles at about 16-17*C.
  3. I tried Startools but just didn't have a clue what it was doing. I couldn't find anyway to actually stretch the image (auto develop just made the image terrible) whereas I know Lightroom inside out so it wasn't too much to get the basics of Photoshop down. I still need to learn how to boost contrast and control noise before I move into masks, etc. I also like that I can do everything step by step and, using layers, compare the steps to see if I like it. It's a lot like going to the opticians - does it look better with or without the flat piece of glass in front of your eye? - eventually I can't tell if the image is getting better or worse and I start over. Using the conservatory has been so good over the last month. I would otherwise have to set the camera running using BackyardEOS and then retreat to the house - checking back every 5 minutes or so to review the subs and make sure tracking was ok. Also, where I set up now is sheltered on three sides from the wind whereas the other end of the garden is more exposed (but gets reasonable views from W through to S above 15deg alt).
  4. I'm being lazy and staying close to the house (as I've just invested in a 5m cable that means I can control the camera from my laptop in the comfort of an armchair inside the conservatory). It means I'm limited to a NW to S vista but that means plenty of clusters at the moment plus the galaxies in Virgo, Canes Venatici and Ursa Major. It won't be too long until the summer nebula rise high enough. The North America Nebula is my next target but it's probably 4 weeks away from being high enough at a reasonable time. In the meantime, I managed to get some more subs on M13. After processing and re-processing, I finally tried stacking without flats, darks and bias and I think the image is actually better. I guess the temperature is changing too fast for darks to work effectively. Anyway, I'm pleased this has improved since my first try. And I can just make out IC4617 along with NGC6207. At 15.2, I didn't think I'd capture that in 45 seconds with my light polluted skies. They aren't as clear as Ian's, but I'm going to claim that's because of the aperture advantage! 35 x 45sec ISO1600 subs, stacked in DSS with no flats, darks or bias. Cropped then adjusted with levels and curves in Photoshop. Not had chance to make final tweaks in Lightroom (which I think is a much better package for those final finishing touches). It's with the Esprit 80ED on the Evo mount. I'm hoping tonight is calm enough to train the 9.25 SCT on M13 tonight to see what it can capture (probably only with 15 second subs).
  5. Filroden

    Another M13

    From the album: Ken's images

    35 x 45 second lights using the Esprit 80ED on the Evo mount and the Canon EOS 60D stacked in DSS and processed in Photoshop. No flats, darks or bias applied as they made the image worse, not better!
  6. I've been able to get 15 to 20 second subs but it's 50/50 at that point. It's very sensitive to the slightest breeze. But it's great for planets and visual.
  7. Had an unsuccessful night where my focus went as the temperature fell. Only my first 10 subs of M13 seemed to gives results. 10 x 45s ISO1600 lights with flats, darks and bias applied. Processed with levels and curves in Photoshop with final touches in Lightroom Mobile. Taken with the Esprit 80 on the Evo mount with the Canon 60D.
  8. Filroden

    M13

    From the album: Ken's images

    10 x 45s ISO1600 lights with flats, darks and bias applied. Processed with levels and curves in Photoshop with final touches in Lightroom Mobile. Taken with the Esprit 80 on the Evo mount with the Canon 60D.
  9. To the right of that are a line of pairs of stars that at first had me worried I'd knocked the mount during the captures
  10. Excuse the light pollution and the halos (the sky had a very high haze) but here's my first attempt at M57 with the 80ED. I tried to get the 9.25 SCT on it the following night but it was far too windy. I think this was 31 x 30s lights ISO1600 with flats, darks and bias.
  11. Filroden

    M57 Ring Nebula

    From the album: Ken's images

    31 x 30s ISO1600 lights with flats, darks and bias using the Skywatcher Esprit 80ED on the Evolution mount with the Canon 60D. The sky was very hazy that evening but I'm pleased I got something!
  12. From the album: Ken's images

    A single 30 second exposure at ISO 1600 using the Skywatcher Esprit 80D on the Evo mount with the Canon 60D
  13. M95, M96 and the Leo Tripets (or a lesson on if it can go wrong it will go wrong) Step 1: Let's take the flats, darks and bias whilst the sun is up...so using the crescent moon to get a good focus...flats [tick], darks [tick], bias [tick] Step 2: Let's align the finder scope during twilight using Jupiter and BackyardEOS to see my camera live view. Nothing. Okay, maybe the alignment is so bad it's not close to my field of view. Unclamp the scope and slew around in the hope of seeing it flash across the screen. Nope. Okay, maybe my focus has gone completely. Refocus on the Moon. Can't find it. Okay, have I messed up settings on the camera? Doh, yes it's still set to 1/8000s from taking the bias so reset the camera to manual and 30s. Slew back to Jupiter. Still can't find it. Start to pull out hair. Let's put in an eyepiece. Still can't see anything. Maybe I should remove the lens cap from the scope? /facepalm Step 3: Let's align the mount using three star alignment and live view [tick] Step 4: Let's get fine focus using the final star since it's bright enough and already in view. Grab mask and see focus is spot on [tick] Unfocus slightly and refocus just to make sure [tick] Step 5: Slew to target and take a single 30s ISO1600 shot to check composition. Stars are heavily trailed. Maybe the mount needed longer to get steady? Take another shot. Still heavily trailed. Take a third shot. Still...hold on, those are weird trails. They look more like acute star spikes. Maybe remove the mask? /facepalm Step 6: Repeat step 5. Image looks great and is centred exactly as shown in SkySafari. A first for my alignment. I normally have to adjust slightly. Lesson learnt: aligning using an eyepiece, even using unfocused stars and an 8mm eyepiece, is not as accurate as using live view. Proceed to take lights. Step 7: Slew to Margarin's Chain to grab a few more lights to integrate with data from the weekend. Again, perfect alignment on the goto meaning I could frame my shot using SkySafari! Anyway, here's a processed shot of M95, M96 and the Leo Triplets using the Esprit 80 on the Evo mount and the Canon 60D. It's 57 x 30s lights at ISO1600 with 50 darks. The flats didn't work so I also didn't use the bias. P.S. Step 8: Post to forum then notice I linked the Markarian's Chain and not the Leo shot. My face is getting very sore now.
  14. From the album: Ken's images

    57 x 30s lights, 50 darks. I did take flats and bias but they made the image worse. Taken with the Esprit 80 on the Evo mount with the Canon 60D.

    © Ken Dearman

  15. Here's my first attempt at Markarian's Chain. Using the Esprit 80 on the Evolution mount I could easily get 45 second subs. Again, beaten by the clouds so only managed 18 lights, no darks or flats stacked in DSS. Processed quickly with levels in 32bit then converted to 16bit for some final curves adjustments in Photoshop. https://stargazerslounge.com/gallery/image/30884-markarians-chain/ For some reason, no matter how small I make the image, I cannot seem to insert it directly into the post, so I've had to add it to a gallery and link it.
  16. Filroden

    Markarian's Chain

    From the album: Ken's images

    18 x 45 second lights using a Esprit 80ED on an Evolution mount and a Canon EOS 60D stacked in DSS and processed in 32 bit with levels then in 16 bit with some final curves in Photoshop.

    © Ken Dearman

  17. I'm using Photoshop but I've deliberately over darkened it to reduce the noise until I can get more subs. It also doesn't help that to load the image onto the site I have to go via my iPad and this removed what little detail is in the original. Thursday looks like it could be clear so I hope I get another 50-100 subs to work with. ken
  18. So after two failed nights of getting subs of M51 that DSS would process I managed 9x30s last night before clouds came over. Very noisy but at least I know I can keep going. Celestron Evolution 9.25 with Canon 60D Ken
  19. Thanks Ian I've only used levels, curves, vibrancy and saturation on the image so far. I'm hoping to try some longer exposures this evening but I find even slight breezes ruin too many shots when I expose in the 15 to 20 second range and I don't think I've ever got a sharp 30 second shot where you can see rotation also starting to have an effect. Im also going to try and take my first flats. I have to say, I knew I could take some great shots of the moon and planets but I didn't expect I could dabble in DSOs. I can't wait for M13 to get high enough.
  20. Like many, M42 is my first try at a DSO. Would love to know how to improve on it. 60 x 8 sec ISO1600 with Celestron Evolution 9.25 and Canon EOS60d image.tiff
  21. Great post. When you're taking it out in the car do you just strap the OTA using just the seat belt? Have you invested in a case to carry it?
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