Trentend

Many years ago I took a trip about an hour away from home to a darker sky site (bortle 3) with an old 8" skywatcher reflector. It was around the same time of year with Orion up in the sky. I remember thinking it was a great spot but didn't have the technology (or knowledge) to know what to look at or where other than M42, which was still pretty cool. Roll forward a number of years, I returned last night with a C11, reducers, filters, 55/67 combo and two NV goggles (my trusty 2100 FOM OVNI-B and a PVS14 with Carson lens / 2600 FOM spec tube formally belonging to Gavster). Before setting out I had a go with both in the back garden x1 handheld. I could clearly make out a number of nebula with the B - not crystal clear and some scintillation with the 3.5nm filter but definitely there. I then popped in the PVS14. A pretty big difference. There was understandably more brightness but the ability to turn down the scintillation with gain control was a new experience to me and helped a lot. An hour or so later it was just me and a few sheep standing in a field but surrounded by beautiful clear skies. What a difference without light pollution. The half moon was still up so not uber dark but I could clearly make out the milky way using my mark 1 eyeballs. Think I spent about half an hour just looking up before getting out the kit. I set up the scope, fired up the Nexus and turned on my phone to pick some targets. First problem - no phone reception so couldn't cheat using sky safari. Then turned on the rigel viewer to do the two star alignment (I don't bother with a finder scope) but the battery was flat! I persevered with alignment using the B plugged in to the 55/66 combo afocal - but there were so many stars it was difficult to know what I was looking at! Finally managed to get that sorted and set straight to M42. Wow. Some difference between now and the old 8" back in the day. I put in the filter wheel trying numerous settings (685, 642, 12, 7 and 3.5nm) but actually found filterless was the best. Absolutely spectacular. I quickly slotted in the PVS14 to do a comparison - the view was a little brighter and I could definitely make out more contrast with the filters. Again the ability to turn down the gain control was brilliant. However, I've only ever viewed targets using both eyes (binoviewers and the B ) so although the image was arguably clearer/brighter I personally didn't find it as comfortable. I then tried to pick a few targets from memory on the Nexus but something must have been array as I couldn't get anything to come in to view (M81, M32 etc). At this point my fingers were starting to freeze so I put the scope away and had a go hand held. Looking through the B I could see nebula all over the place; much brighter and with less scintillation than back home. When I changed to the PVS14 and pointed at Orion though (with the 3.5nm) there was a notable improvement and I could clearly see Barnard's loop - that was a first for me. Just like the photo's on this site. Amazing. Overall a really enjoyable evening. Lots of learning points for next time (the priority being some heated gloves) and I'm very happy with both NV goggles. I suspect ultimately I'll have to scratch the B itch and get a better spec one with gain control but am looking forward to using both over the winter months.

Looking forward to your report. Had another go attaching my OVNI-B to a comiscar 75mm lens the other day to try handheld. Good views, albeit from a light polluted back garden. Main issue though is I can’t get focus without having the c-mount to lens attachment loose, which doesn’t feel secure and makes it tricky to then adjust the f-stop. I think if the adapter that screw into the c-mount (second picture middle) and on to the lens was say 5mm longer I’d be fine. Not sure if there are any products on the market for this?

Wondering how this would compare to an Antlia 3.5nm which is in my current inventory for NV. The Chroma seems to be the go to filter at this band, albeit with a chunky price tag. Not sure if I’d notice a step change between the two?

Yes I’ve tried the same but no grease so far and working better thanks. Am wondering if there’s something I can do, other than grease, to prevent the metal strip scoring the back/other side of the wheel (it’s that that’s causing the friction - see the silver halo in the picture below).

Lost in translation. What I was looking for was a battery operated filter wheel for visual that I could “press a button” and the wheel rotates. Looks like these don’t exist so I’ll stick with the manual version I have and work on reducing the friction so it turns more freely.

I’m just visual so looks like I need a separate power supply

Something like this? Wondering how it would be powered (looks like plugged in to a separate power pack via usb) https://www.firstlightoptics.com/filter-wheels/zwo-5x-2-inch-electronic-filter-wheel-efw.html

Looks like the friction is being caused by the small silver metal part sticking up below. I bent it back to reduce the strength of the contact and that seemed to do the trick. May also take your advice and apply some lubricant as the metal has also scored a channel on the other side of the wheel leaving some very small filings in the bottom 😳

Purchased a cheap but reasonably effective 5x2” filter wheel (like the one below) a while ago but it’s getting more difficult rotating the different filters especially in the cold. Can’t bring myself to spend £££ on a motorised version. Any DIY tips making this easier to use?

Just re-read the Denk manual and it says magnification with the powerswitch on the middle setting in an SCT is actually x1.15 rather than 2.25 I assumed (that’s what you get with a frac or Newtonian with the OCS) so magnification the other evening was only circa x135. Strange as this is very similar to the FC100 with the x2 Barlow and middle setting with a similar FOV yet the image appeared significantly larger in the C11. I’ll need to double check my maths…

Had a go with a Vixen HR 1.6mm in an FC100 DZ on the moon a couple of nights ago which I think is around x550 (trying to get more than the x200ish mag I’ve had so far with D14’s, a x2 barlow and binoviewer). Obviously too big a jump and think I’ll stick to using both eyes.

Can the Baader kit also be used on filters (I have a couple with fingerprints).

Can highly recommend the bag below from B&Q for those with an AZ100, dual saddles and nexus shelf. A perfect fit, hard base / sides and even has wheels and a handle to pull along. Just £40. Bargain. Only downside is a strange metallic garage smell from inside, which I guess may appeal to some! Suspect this has been sitting a while on a shelf at the local store.

I’m very fortunate to have a C11, Tak frac, 18” Dob and skymax 127. The latter will be the last of the 4 I ever get rid of - such a good/usable scope.

One other schoolboy error this evening. The AZ100 mount alt slow motion control only seemed to work in one direction (down). I spent half an hour or so balancing and rebalancing the scopes only to realise the screw attaching the handle to the mount was loose. Worked a treat once I tightened this up. I’ll try and remember next time.

I’ve only had the C11 out once before around a month ago on the same targets and it was equally brilliant (best view ever of Saturn) but had been out a couple of hours before use. Not sure if the foil wrap works (only a 30min wait tonight) or is an astronomical placebo, but I’ll stick with it for the time being. One issue I had was the astrozap dew shield wouldn’t fit over the top of it and kept dropping off. Not sure if I’ll need to remove an inch of so right at the end so the shield can get more purchase.

Another night, another scope shoot out, this time with a newly insulated C11 v the Tak. The former a little bit Blue Peter having covered it with aluminium foil to help with cool down. Really seemed to do the trick though and was excellent after just 30mins or so. Usual Jupiter and Saturn targets with the Binotron, powerswitch, with/without x2 Barlow and 24mm pans. A clear winner tonight. The C11 was immense. Views were very steady, incredibly bright (to be expected given the much greater aperture) and Jupiter felt like being onboard Voyager 1! Multiple bandings, loads of detail, subtly different colours. Best view by far was without the Barlow and on the middle setting of the powerswitch. I think this gave x256 magnification, which by my reckoning was like holding a squash ball at arms length. Couldn’t take the higher setting or anything with the Barlow, which would have been well over x300 even on the low powerswitch. Saturn also very good but less time to take in as dancing in between the rooftops. Then moved over to the Tak with the Barlow. Views still very very impressive for such a small scope, very sharp and pretty bright. Perhaps not quite as warm as the C11 (shades of grey rather than the browns in the C11) and magnification understandably lower (like holding a marble at arms length). Worked fine on all powerswitch settings but again the clearer view by far was on the middle setting which I believe gave x140. Now I know I should be able to get far greater magnification than this and am wondering if the powerswitch high setting is the weak point in the set up. That would only be pushing x200 and I know the Tak is capable of more. In hindsight I should have stuck in the D14 on the middle switch to compare. Next time. All in all still a great night and very happy with the scopes (next time though I’ll rotate the Tak so it sits upright - stupid boy!)

Spent half an hour or so this evening comparing a Tak and mak127. Usual set up with Binotron, 24mm pans and either OCS45 or x2 Barlow. Had both scopes on an AZ100 mount so was able to repeatably compare the two. Targets were Saturn and Jupiter again. Tak was crystal clear out the box either with the OCS or Barlow. Had the 2” extension tube in and the Binotron worked on all powerswitch settings with the Barlow but just the medium and high with the OCS (not quite enough in focus on the low). Tak was noticeably brighter with more contrast. Best views were with the Barlow and powerswitch on medium and high setting. The latter I think works out around x200. Tried the same set up in the mak and view was ok in the low powerswitch setting which is a little less magnification. Not quite as sharp or bright but for 1/10th the cost still very good. Not worth using the mak though on the medium or high powerswitch settings. Perhaps would be better with time to cool down a little. Overall very happy with the recent Tak purchase. Good to know I can get great planetary views (moments when Saturn although small really snapped in to view). Looking forward to some lunar action. Also have some Denk 3D eyepieces kicking around somewhere which I’ve never got around to trying…

Had a 30 min gap in the clouds this evening so decided to saddle up an FC100 and skymax127 on the AZ100 now I have the dual saddles. Worked an absolute treat, although will require a little adjusting to centre both scopes. The alt lock was perfect allowing me to keep swapping the heavy binoviewers from one scope to the other and back (a la Chuckle brothers me to you to me…). Rock steady views, silky smooth slow motion controls. A lot easier focusing the Tak compared to the other night on a Gitzo and scopetech mount.

Finally got around to buying some reflective foil. Now to work out the best way to secure this to the scope. I see there’s plenty of space underneath the orange dovetail bar so I could go around the whole scope and effectively secure underneath the dovetail itself rather than reverting to duck tape (the foil is pretty thin so wouldn’t impact anything that I can see). There are 4 screws securing the dovetail to either end of the ota; presume no issue if I remove these to temporarily lift out the dovetail (seem to recall seeing a blog about the mak127 warning against this as items might drop off inside)?

Forgot about the alt lock. Struggled to change kit on my scopetech zero even with the alt clutch fully tightened as there’s no lock. Another tick for the AZ100…

Draft question but any advice/experience out there balancing two scopes on the AZ100? About to buy a second saddle and altitude adjuster so I can try a C11 and fc100 side by side. I believe the alt clutch applies equal pressure to both meaning I’ll have to be pretty precise? I also use very heavy binoviewers and find the Tak too wobbly on the grab and go mount/tripod and also a bit cumbersome when changing eyepieces so looking forward to giving the heavy duty set up a try. Other than buying a second binoviewer(!) I’d rather not have to constantly rebalance both. Perhaps I need a counterweight to mimic the binoviewer weight otherwise I’ll end up like Indiana Jones below…

The other week I had the C11 out for about an hour to cool down (nothing more). Saturn was like holding a 2p piece at arms length rather than a 1p with the mak/Tak. Moments of incredible clarity. Jupiter was also large and I could clearly see brownish banding and the GRS. I’ll need to get some more bits and bobs before I can mount two scopes on the AZ100 but am looking forward to that. The AZ100 is absolutely fine with just the C11 on one side and no counterweight so am sure adding a second scope will improve things (but not my back moving stuff around…)

I’ll take some measurements next time I’m out. I think 2 out of the 3 power settings were fine. Just needed 10mm more travel for all 3 to work. Still a ,or less hassle I find than changing eyepieces!

Quick session last night with the scope, Binotron/powerswitch, x2 Denk barlow and a couple of eyepieces on a scopetech mount. Targets were limited to Jupiter and Saturn as they danced inbetween the local rooftops coming in to and out of view. First impressions on Jupiter - wow. Crystal clear straight out the box. Zero cool down required but huge amounts of contrast/detail and brightness. I’m yet to fully master working out magnifications with the various powerswitch / OCS / Denk Barlow combinations and conscious the scale of the views were significantly smaller than my C11 but somehow didn’t feel like I was missing out on anything. Tried both 24mm panoptics and D14s. The latter were great on the middle and lower powerswitch. The 24’s though are just so comfortable to use in a binoviewer and think I preferred these. Worked fine on all 3 powerswitch levels with the 2” extension tube in place. Could clearly see more than the usual number of observed bands on Jupiter. Not sure if I could add a Tak 1.6 extender in addition to the Denk Barlow for even greater magnification or would U.K. skies limit that? Saturn was good but noticeably smaller compared to the C11 (to be expected) and not quite as much of a wow factor, although appreciate I’m comparing apples and pears - and hate to say it but views seemed comparable to the little mak127 if the latter is left to cool! The mak though was quite “mushy” at higher mags on Jupiter compared to the Tak. So all in all a great mini session. Very pleased with the results on Jupiter teasing out detail I hadn’t seen before (even from bigger scopes). Can’t wait to try it on the moon. A few technical points I’d appreciate folks thoughts on: 1. I had to move the diagonal back about 10mm to get high mag powerswitch focus with one of the eyepieces. Was fine doing this but wonder if there’s an adapter or something I could put in place instead 2. I didn’t get on well at all with the focuser. Found it very stiff - so much so that the whole scope wobbled quite a bit when trying to fine tune so struggled to get the best performance out the scope. I tried adjusting the draw tube clamp but this didn’t seem to make any difference (loosening or tightening up). There was also quite a bit of grease on the draw tube itself. The scope’s not brand new but is this just a case of letting it bed in further or is there something else I should do? Would prefer not to have to replace the focuser with a mef3 or more blue at this early stage. 3. I bought a Vixen HR 1.6mm eyepiece many years ago. Tried in mono mode in the diagonal with no Barlow but still couldn’t get anything to focus. Appreciate this would be very high mag but what set up would people recommend? 4. Wonder if I should buy a Baader dovetail levelling bar to help with balancing? A lot of weight at the back end with my set up and the slow motion controls on the mount were ok but struggling a little at times. Was windy though which didn’t help. 5. I’d like to stick a rigel finder on to the scope in addition to the finder scope (helps with encoder alignment). I could just use the double sided tape on the rigel baseplate and position on the tube - presume this would be simple to remove at a later point and wouldn’t damage the immaculate Tak paintwork!? Any advice much appreciated.