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About Trentend

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  1. Are there likely to be vendor discounts on the day? Looking to purchase a feathertouch focuser.
  2. I will try a repeat of this tonight in my smaller 8 inch skywatcher (that works a treat on all settings and has never been collimated).
  3. Too excited to wait for a test this evening (I so want this to work as have £££ ready for related kit that I’ve been holding off for months) so tried in my lunch break. Interesting results. The laser centred nicely in the donut on the primary with the hotec only. When I put the binoviewer in place and swapped one of the eyepieces for the hotec with the focuser fully in, the dot was about 1-1.5 inches away from the donut . When I then moved the focuser fully out there was definitely some drift, not much (around 2-3mm I’d say) but you could feel a little play, even with the various screws tightened up. So definitely need to try a new focuser. Guess what I don’t understand is how the dot can be so far out in the first place??
  4. Eddgie suspects the weight of the binoviewer is causing the focuser to sag a little when fully extended (it is very heavy with a filter switch, two eps, ocs and power switch) and has suggested I try placing the laser first in the focuser on its own and then repeat with the laser in the binoviewer when fully extended to see if the dot on the primary moves. Will try tonight and report back.
  5. I left a 3cm extension tube in between the ocs and power switch (see photo) as this seemed to do the trick with the 8inch skywatcher. Will try removing it for the vx212 to see if it makes any difference (Rob, not sure if you have this on yours?).
  6. Apologies yes an F4 so appreciate smaller margin for error. Presume this is more critical the higher the magnification (fine on low power, stars shine nice, bright and pin sharp but not if medium or high).
  7. I have a denkmeier OCS A45 which I believe should address this?
  8. Thanks both. Potential school boy error. Have removed the slack/play (there was at least 5mm) by tightening the two adjustments screws (yellow arrows). The fine focuser (red arrow) doesn’t work and never has so still want to replace the unit. Have a free evening so going to reacquaint myself with the astrobaby collimation guide... One thing I always notice when using my Hotech to align the secondary is I have to apply a lot of pressure to get the laser in the donut ring on the primary. Suggests the secondary still isn’t in the right position perhaps.
  9. Looking to upgrade the focuser on my scope to either a moonlite or Baader diamond steeltrack. I use the scope with a denkmeier binoviewer and 24mm panoptics - have crisp views at low power but can’t focus on the medium and high. Previously thought this was poor collimation (and it may still be) but when I had a look through it the other night I noticed a significant amount of sag with the medium and higher settings as the focuser travel out is much greater. Wonder if this explains the poor views? I need to replace the focuser as it’s a bit battered and the fine tuning mechanism doesn’t really work. Any thoughts on the best one to get and what accessories such as fitting plates etc would I need (I have previously used the Baader clicklock mechanism so leaning towards that). Really hope I can get this scope to work as it’s so easy to set up and transport.
  10. Enjoying some great views of the moon this week through the VX12 on low power (binoviewers and 24mm panoptics). But still not as clear as hoped for on middle and higher power. When observing the moon at mid and high I notice if I move my eyes towards the bottom of the eyepiece and look up (rather than central looking straight ahead) the view is sharper. Does this suggest the secondary isn’t centred in the viewer correctly? Current position in the photo below. Also unable to properly resolve stars in the middle and high setting (but fine low). When I try and focus the top part of any star almost resolves clearly but a tail appears towards the bottom. A bit like a badminton shuttlecock pointing upwards (if that makes sense)? Have an ocs45 fitted so not sure if this is coma related (I don’t think it should). Cavalry arriving in the next week or so from the local Astronomy club to take a look, but any thoughts before then appreciated.
  11. In previous posts I mentioned hearing a slight rattle when moving/rolling my OO VX12. Wondered if something was loose in the scope (the mirror or the cell or both). Preferred not to take the scope apart so had a feel around in the space between the back of the mirror and the cell and turns out that 2 of the 3 arms (see red arrow in photo below, the parts with 3 white circular pads) are not flush to the back of the mirror and are moving a little. Is this normal, something I should try and fix (not sure if it’s adding to collimating issues?). What I don’t understand is the parts can be moved sideways around 5-10mm rather than up/down, ie closer to the mirror, almost suggesting one of the screws attaching the cell (in the picture below in yellow) isn’t there. Probably not describing that very well! Any thoughts? If I have to remove the cell is it easy to get back in?
  12. Any advice on the battery? Will only be using for the fan. Prefer something lightweight that will last around 4 hours in any 1 viewing.
  13. Appreciate all the feedback. Next steps are a) buy a battery for the fan (any recommendations given the cables in the picture above?), b) learn about the “star test” c) remember not to tighten the locking screws and d) gently roll the scope whilst in a horizontal position to see if there is something loose Regarding the 8inch skywatcher, I’ve never collimation this properly (other than with a cheap laser) but it’s always shown crystal clear views at medium and high power in the binoviewer and panoptics.
  14. Hmm, interesting point jam1e1. I recall before I received the mount a month ago and had a go collimating with the scope horizontal, I sensed a faint amount of movement in the primary when slowly rolling the tube but had forgotten about that. Pretty sure this wasn’t the mirror itself rotating, but the cell. I’ll have another look tomorrow. If there is movement, is it an easy job removing the primary and a fix? Apart from not touching the mirror, any advice while doing this? There’s plenty of dust on the mirror but I’m not sure I want to tackle that.
  15. I let the scope cool down for 3 hours last night, so hopefully that’s one less parameter out the equation. The full moon was pretty crisp and bright with the power switch on low magnification and 24mm in the binoviewer. The middle and high power though were very average and much better in the 8 inch skywatcher side by side, which I kept going back to. Appreciate the higher aperture increases the magnification (and presumably weakens the clarity like using a higher power ep?), but I just couldn’t get an especially clear/focused view. Not sure if this is collimation (likely) or sensitivity to atmospherics in a larger scope? There was noticeable wobble in the 12 and nothing in the 8. I will give the fan a try. What battery would people recommend for the cable connector I have in the picture below?
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