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AKB

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Posts posted by AKB

  1. 1 hour ago, ScouseSpaceCadet said:

    External lighting getting an amateur astronomer's nerves doesn't legally count as a light nuisance...

    Is that really the case?  
     

    I note from this document: 

    https://www.cpre.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/light-pollution-as-a-statutory-nuisance-a-how-to-guide.pdf

     

    Quote

    “Statutory nuisance is a criminal offence, and it is the local authority that takes the action. This is different from common law nuisance, where complainants take the action themselves, to the civil courts. For you to have a claim for statutory nuisance, the lighting must be 'prejudicial to health or a nuisance' and harm your enjoyment of your land. ”

     

  2. 5 hours ago, dan_adi said:

    I did have a similar problem long ago. I my case it was a slightly loose wire connection on  the controller. This made the scope start moving on its own, and go blinky. Also be sure you are correctly initializing the mount. A bad init can cause lots of problems... 

    Good to know.  Your procedure is very much what I had been doing for the last 18 months, until this happened.

    What, then, should be required to “correctly initialise the mount”, seeing as its blinky now?

  3. 12 hours ago, whipdry said:

    Just wondering if you managed to get your Mesu mount up & running again... perhaps you could give an update? 

     

    Have done all the diagnostics I can, and I think that I’ve narrowed it down to the controller itself.  I’ve exchanged emails with Lucas Mesu and I’m planning on sending him the SiTech box to check things out.  Complicated by the fact that Royal Mail isn’t sending parcels abroad at the moment.  Other couriers seem outrageously expensive…?  Lucas tells me that he’s never seen one go wrong before…

    In the meantime, I’ve ripped all the kit out of the observatory and replaced the mount with my Avalon M-Uno and just my C9.25 Hyperstar for EEVA use.  Tonight’s the first one I could see any stars, but I had to go out to visit friends, so haven’t yet done a PA on the setup.  I doubt that I’ll get the Mesu running for the rest of this season, but perhaps I’m just being pessimistic. 

    Thanks for asking!

    Tony

  4. 5 hours ago, whipdry said:

    Thought I'd try to offer a little more help,

    Much appreciated, Peter.

    I will give #1 a go tomorrow.  I have tried #2 already, swapping both the drive and the encoders with the connectors you mentiond.  The other axis slews when I do that.

    I've also sent a message to Lucas Mesu to see how familiar he might be with this problem.

    Will let you know how the config files goes...

    Thanks again,  Tony.

  5. @whipdry @Jonk

    Thanks both for the suggestions.  I’ve just given it a go and it shows the same symptoms without a handset attached. 

    I’ve also posted on the groups.io forum, so we’ll see if that brings any joy.

    Appreciate the help anyway. 

    Tony

    PS: this is after having put the controller itself in the airing cupboard for a while to see if moisture there was the issue!

  6. Help!  Turned on the mount (Mk 2) last night and the RA started slewing immediately until it suddenly stopped (some encoder limit??)  It does this every time if I manually turn the RA back to its usual park position.  The controller LED 1 blinks and the app shows "blinky" mode.

    The servo obviously works, and perhaps the encoder, since it does come to a stop.  Perhaps a Sitech hardware issue?

    Any advice / suggestions for further diagnostics welcomed.

    Are new Sitechs easy to acquire?  The thought of having to ship something to Europe is dire in this post-Brexit world.

    Thanks in advance.

    Tony

  7. On 04/12/2022 at 15:26, ollypenrice said:

    before we'd found the best front end cable routing

    Any "best practice" advice available on this?  I've gone as far as a semi-circular route with the power and USB cables going down opposite arcs to keep the diameter of the obstruction as low as possible.  Anything further to consider?

    Great image, of course!

    Tony

  8. On 18/11/2022 at 18:56, Elp said:

    Close, looks like it needs to move down a little (the shadow of the central). You can likely image okay as it is.

    This shows that I can get collimation closer, but also very clearly demonstrates the curved cable form that I posted earlier in the thread.  When in focus, this means that the diffraction spikes from the cables are very effectively suppressed... definitely worthwhile doing.

    The diagonal chip measurement here is 23mm (it's an ASI294-MM.)

     

    2127130690_20Nov22_17_38_41Collimated.thumb.jpg.abbdff69d78e82904a0ffe0c2677bf61.jpg

  9. Well, this looks like progress!

    For the defocussed image, I’m a little concerned about the strongly ellipsoidal nature of the off-centre stars.  I’ve not noticed that so strongly on mine before.  Wondering if that might be a spacing inaccuracy?  Or perhaps it’s normal for a C8?

    Beats me how you found any stars at all this evening!  All cloudy here.

    • Like 1
  10. 56 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

    In that case it wouldn't matter if one of the 'bottom position' screws were bottomed out, but if more than one were bottomed out you'd lose a dimension of adjustment? I'm not the engineer! :grin:

    This only works, IMHO, if the screw you chose was aligned with lowest point of the optical ‘tilt’? From a practical point of view, a little leeway for all three of them helps. 
     

    From what I’ve read here, your practical expertise exceeds many who might be happy to call themselves ‘engineers’ (which, BTW, seem barely to be technicians these days.  Although, I give you, that the term engineer has a much higher standing in Europe than in the UK.)

    • Like 1
  11. 1 hour ago, ollypenrice said:

    The lens system must be 'suspended' between them and able to move both ways. It sounds as if this might not be the case for you.

    Not quite the technique I’ve used.  For me, with the scope pointing to zenith, the short locking screws can be relaxed and then the Hyperstar lens just sits on the three long adjustment screws.  Then it’s just the same as for adjusting a Newtonian. A rich star field will mean that it doesn’t matter that adjusting the collimation moves the image, since there are always stars near enough to the centre.  You also get a feel for how things vary off centre.  For me, again, with a relatively small chip, it’s pretty good across the field.

    • Like 1
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