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Posts posted by JemC
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Good day everyone 😁
Just wondering about focal reducers for my iOptron RC6
Has anyone used this one ,
Astro Essentials 0.75x Reducer for StellaLyra / GSO Ritchey Chretien OTAand if so is it worth getting or should i try and get the CCDT67 reducer
Thanks
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1 hour ago, Anne S said:
If you have a reducer you need to be a bit closer. If you run out of focus just remove one tube. That's why I ended up switching the 2 inch out.
I don't have a reducer just yet but thanks for the tip 😁
I'm probably still going to have to play around with it a little more as i need to attach manual FW to it yet so i assume that is going to throw it off a little, -
10 hours ago, Anne S said:
Here is is. Look on page 4.
Thank you for this, found it very helpful.
So this is now how i have my Atik 314L+ mono attached according to this, 4b
Just going to have to wait to try it now as it is cloudy, -
13 hours ago, ebdons said:
do the pinhole trick in daylight
Please do enlighten me as to what this is,
7 hours ago, tomato said:Assuming you have the camera installed at the correct backfocus distance for your RC (or somewhere close)
I have a feeling that this is what the problem is going to be, going to have to play about and fiddle a bit more
7 hours ago, rnobleeddy said:It's much easier to try to focus on something far away in the day time, typically a neighbors chimney, roof, a lamppost or some branches.
If you can also find some software that can loop images then that'll make it easier.
I stuck the DSLR back on it today and had a play around i pointed it at a an alarm box that was on a house probably about 150-200 ft away,
this is were everything ends up when it's in focus with DSLR
7 hours ago, michael8554 said:The scope was originally set up for a DSLR with a 44 mm lens-flange-to-sensor spacing, or 55mm with the T2 Adapter.
On the 314L that spacing is only 13mm.
So 55 - 13 = 42mm is the amount of spacing you need to add, to place the 314L sensor where the DSLR sensor was.
Michael
Please see image above, Do i now need to remove the ext tube when the Atik is connected ?
7 hours ago, ollypenrice said:Artemis is absolutely brilliant, as is the camera. Hang on in there. As Tomato says, it is virtually live view if you use short subs and bin 2x2.
What do you see on the capture screen in Artemis? If it is jet black when you take a short sub the camera is saturating or has another connection issue.
Are you dead sure your finder is well aligned? You might be missing the star in the main scope at long FL and with small chip. If unsure, try pointing at a tight open cluster instead of a single star.
I agree about Artemis it's just so easy and uncomplicated to use , Jurys still out on the camera at the minute 😁
I took a couple of shots with the Atik today, (not in focus i might add) so I'll try explain what was on the screen,
I took
1 image at 0.01sec with sensor exposed, the resulting image was white
1 image at 0.01sec with scope cap on, the resulting image was what i would call a dirty grey speckled imagei did the same with 10sec and they where the same,
i did not get any jet black image at any time ( is that good or bad? )
i really appreciate everyone's help on this, hopefully it will be clear tonight then i can have another go,
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5 hours ago, ebdons said:
do the pinhole trick in daylight. it cam either works or nothing.ton
Not sure what the pinhole trick is ? Please enlighten me 😁
I have been using the software that came with the camera ( Artemis ) not tried any other, maybe it’s time I did.
Would exposing in daylight not just saturate the sensor ?
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Hi all
I'm looking for some help if possible please, at my wits end starting to wish i had never bought it ☹️
I have had the Atik 314L+ for about a month now and have been unsuccessful in getting anywhere with it, I knew it was going to be a little different than a DSLR but wasn't expecting it to be this difficult and i also know that it is more than likely user error (me) that is the problem,
My intention was to use this camera with my iOptron RC6 on some galaxies but try as i may i have not as yet been able to achieve focus (so much harder without Live View )
If there is anyone on here who has used this camera/scope set up that could point me in the right direction in how they achieved focus i would really appreciate it,I have also tried all different kinds of adapters/spacers, racked the focuser in and out all the way ??
Some one please tell me it's a simple fix
ta very much
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3 hours ago, Corncrake said:
Update ! @Yellow dwarf @Tan Zhi Qi I have just found out that the latest version of Deep Sky Stacker has problems with 60D and 600D, (amongst others) so if that software was in your thinking beware !
The way i read it is it is to do with your calibration frames, if you have a library of calibration frames you normally use before the update then they will no longer work so you need to make a fresh set, So not really a major issue, a pain in the rear yes but nothing drastic,
i still use my Canon 600d with it without any problems
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My Canon 600d sensor could do with a clean, what would be the best cleaning bits/equipment in order to do this ?
thanks
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15 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:
Damn nice looking scope that RC6, if it a heavy for the size of it?
It is a nice scope, it's very solidly built, it does have some weight to it but very easily handled, it is however very back heavy once the adapters and camera are in place and needs to be placed quite forward in the saddle to achieve balance. maybe some kind of counter weight for the front of the tube would help ?
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11 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:
If you dont mind, I think your flats arent right, and appear to be overcorrecting, and havent removed all the dust bunnies.
I don't mind at all,
I had noticed that, i used the ASIAir Pro auto flat feature to take them, i think i will need to re-take them but not with the auto feature next time
Regards
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4 hours ago, vlaiv said:
Stars are a bit odd shaped.
Some of it might be down to guiding (how good was it?) and some of it is probably down to collimation. Maybe look into getting it improved?
Guiding was not great, that's one thing i have not managed to get quite right with the ASIAir pro, it seems to have a mind of it's own , i don't think my focus was spot on either but i think a bahtinov mask would probably help with that,
Collimation!! well that is the one thing that scares me with this type of scope and the fact that it is not something i have had much experience with, but it is something i am going to have to have a go at 🙁I think i will address the other 2 issues before i touch collimation see what if any improvement they make,
Regards
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Hi all,
this image is my 1st light using my recently acquired iOptron Photron RC6 , never used an RC before, anyway after quite a bit of trial and error figuring out which adapters were required in order to achieve focus with the Canon 600d and then getting it balanced ( quite back end heavy with the extension tubes and camera on ) it was time to put myself to the test as well as the kit.
It ended up just being a short run . the set up consisted of :
EQ6 Pro pier mounted
iOptron RC6
Canon 600d (modified)
ASIAir Pro (for the wizardry stuff)
ASI 120mm Mini guide camera mounted to 9 x 50 finder scope
20 x 120 sec lights. or ( 40 minutes in old money )
Calibration files were also used ( not to good effect i might add )Stacked in DSS with slight adjustments then transferred to Photo shop for final butchery,
Levels and curves adjusted and cropped slightly.Overall i'm quite happy with the outcome for such a short amount of data,
Any feedback is welcome, or any tips to help me improve with this scope 🙂so here it is
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Brilliant, a lovely image, and i enjoyed the video as well, very nicely presented,
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17 minutes ago, mikeDnight said:
Just don't leave the scope in an observatory,
? i thought that was the whole point of an observatory, so you can set up your equipment and leave it set up instead of taking it apart when you've finished for the night, 🙂
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A cracking quick shot 😀
unfortunately it's clouded out here ☹️
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19 minutes ago, himori said:
Hi, it is not very cost effective to consider buying a telescope at the moment. In order to enjoy the scenery and take cool photos, you just need to use a drone. I often watch various videos on YouTube and noticed that many picturesque pictures were made with the help of a drone.
That may very well be true, but then again it's never cost effective buying one because there's always something else you need to buy to go with it, unfortunately if you want to take photos of the planets and dso's a Drone isn't going to up to the job, and i'm pretty sure the cost of a decent drone these days is not very cost effective as well 😀 although they do look like fun,
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Stunning, what more can i say 👍
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Good day all,
I recently acquired a Atik 314L+ mono camera, is it possible to connect this to a 135mm camera lens ( m42 fitting ) ?
If so, what adapter/fitting would i require for that, which then brings me onto the question - once lens is connected to camera what mounting options would i need to consider/purchase as there is no tripod collar or fittings on either lens or camera? i would also like to give it a try on my portable tracker ( Vixen Polarie )Any thoughts, hints, or tips would be appreciated
Thanks
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I've looked and googled but nothing comes up, you are probably right as it usually ends up being something so simple 😄
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Yes, it is looking better than the 1st one, nice capture
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Hi
I have been looking at filters and was wondering if anyone ( i'm sure there is someone ) could tell me what the Type 2c Colour Filter means ?
thanks
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Focal Reducer for RC6
in Discussions - Scopes / Whole setups
Posted
Wonderful, thank you 👍