Richard136

Thanks for the input. Wouldn't the focal length of the Mak mean it's always needed in addition to whichever refractor?

Looking for advice. It's one of the above, for visual observing only. Will ride on a SkyTee2 with upgraded saddles. Obvious questions - is the APM actually better quality? Is the 130 that unwieldy? Optically, will one outperform the other? Targets would be all sky, i.e. it'd be an open scope. Possibly supplemented with a small Mak.

I need a portable mount that can be fixed to a photo tripod with a 3/8" thread. Considering the Castor and the TS Optics AZT6. Open to other options. Of the two above, does one have the edge? I'm a bit concerned about how to counter balance the AZT6 (can't seem to find a counter balance bar for it). But the TS Optics does seem more portable and easily stowed in a small bag.

Following with great interest, @Captain Magenta!

Looking for recommendations on how to go about finding a supplier for machining adapters, e.g. for connecting a new focuser to the scope. Does anyone have experience of this? The commercial adapters seem quite expensive and I wondered if it'd be cheaper to go direct to a supplier. Also might take some confusion out of the process when ordering online.

Is the wooden tripod really that much more substantial?

Possibly the TS Optics F7. Topic edited to show f7.

Is the above combination viable? I'd look to upgrade the standard SkyTee saddles. I have the standard 1.75" tripod. Thanks for the advice.

Thanks everyone. Lots of good advice. I found an older thread in which focusing the cross hair is discussed, will perhaps link to it.

Looks good. I will check it out.

Seen those, thanks. Orion can't be focussed (I believe) and the SV needs a finder shoe... I am picky!!😀

In one system I used (can't remember who made it), I'm sure you could focus the view of the cross hair and the view through the scope separately. I may be remembering incorrectly. Issue is that I take glasses off to observe, so no matter what I must be able to focus the finder.

Could work. Does this allow you to focus the eyepiece and the cross hair separately?

Thanks. I had looked at all of these in the search. The issue is they are really quite expensive. But maybe that's what it's got to be...

Struggling to identify a good finder. Have an RDF which is ok but quite bright (need to tone it down somehow) Requirements: < 50mm aperture RACI variable illuminated and focusable cross hair focusable Not cost as much as a small ED scope! Common mount format non-requirement: Guidescope use Nice to have Accept 1.25" eyepiece Answers on a postcard please.

Thanks for the update - appreciated and interesting findings. My 70mm shows an apparently flat visual field to about 80%. I have relatively narrow fov eyepieces, and this may factor into how noticeable is the effect.

All good. Thank you for the response. Enjoy!

This is a helpful review, thanks. How would you describe the extent of field curvature? is it easily visible at low powers on star fields?

I'm wanting to upgrade some of my eyepieces. Thinking of moving to 2" where I can, or just higher quality / wider fov. My current collection is: Vixen LV 4mm Meade 140 2x barlow 7.5mm generic ED 20mm sliver plossl Carton 16.8 Meade 4000 32mm plossl Meade 4000 15mm plossl Meade 4000 12.4 plossl Pentax smc xf 8.5 Sw 28mm 2" Used on a 10" f4.8 Newt and an f7 triplet refractor and a f6 travel refractor for wide field. All are 1.25" with the exception of the SW 28mm. There are some good ones in here but the size of glass at the exit always feels small to me. I want to explore upgrading, if worthwhile and affordable. Also considering a wider field EP into the collection. I've looked at the Baader Hyperion range, but am not sure whether they would be an upgrade on my existing ones or not. Input helpful. I mostly view star cluster and the moon but obviously don't want to limit general purpose use, too. I am highly sensitive to optical errors and defects. Without going to the Televue or Pentax series, which I think would be outside my comfort zone on price, what options are there that would be upgrades to my current set?

I've tried the gentle tap, no movement. It's a Lakeside electric focuser. Does anyone know if the silver barrel has a hole straight through? If is does then I could insert a rod into the "outside" of the barrel, on-axis, and tap it to remove the pinion.

Thanks for the pointer. It's as I thought.

Hi I've seen some posts that appear to show the SkyTee 2 with a 3rd mount point, in the side where the counterweight nar can be threaded. Could someone who has added this 3rd point please post some pictures and a short explanation of how to do it? I assume it's a case of drilling and tapping that end of the SkyTee 2 head. However some pictures seem to show the counterweight bar still mounted where the 3rd mount point would be, which I couldn't easily understand. Photos / how to would be helpful. Thanks.

Understood. Quite a bit to think about when selecting my next wide field scope for a visual flat field, therefore. Edit:: is it necessary to use the flattener that's branded for the scope? I would think it was, since surely the objective and flattener form a system.

Will try to tomorrow. It's the reverse process of installation, I hope. I didn't fit the focusser myself so can't revert to the manual for the reverse process. The silver barrel attached to the motor assembly, which I've removed without issue. What I'm unable to do is remove the barrel from the pinion.

Hi I'm trying to remove the cylindrical attachment from an electric focusser, shown in the left side of the image below. I can't see an obvious way of removing it. The attachment seems stuck fast. I've removed all grub screws that I can see. Looking down the barrel of the attachment, there *may* be the end of the pinion rod. However this is not certain and gentle taps do nothing to move it. Ideas welcome. Currently I am stuck and dont want to risk breaking anything with too much force.