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Everything posted by Richard136

  1. Ps - re the last question, I'm guessing there's more to it than seeing the word "japan" on the barrel
  2. Maybe I should keep the 4000s I'm that case. How do I tell if they're the Japan variants? Decisions decisions!
  3. Sorry john, £200 total! I don't mind having fewer but better. The BSTs get rave reviews so that may be the best option, but purely for the sake of being different id like to investigate other options (thanks though, wookie) . I saw a Vixen LVW in action and thought it was good, but looking at price they are not cheap.
  4. Thanks guys Scopes are f10 (Mak), f4.8 (newt) and f8.3 (refractor) Budget is <£200. I will need to sell stuff to finance the new EPs The current Plossls are mostly Meade series 4000s.
  5. Sorry if this has been asked before... I have some Plossls, 12.4, 15, 20 and 32mm. I also have 3 scopes. A Mak (fl = 1500), a newt (fl = 1200), and a refractor (fl = 1000). I'd like to upgrade the eyepieces. I'd like to go wide field with the newt, mid-field with the refractor. There's an overwhelming choice and I'm stuck. Couple of questions: 1. There seem to be several brands that look like the same product but with a different badge. Is there a site that lists common products and brand names? 2. Am I better going with a medium brand (Baader, celestron) or Are the more expensive options really worth it? ( Televue, Pentax) 3. Any recommendations for something in the 50-82 AFOV range? I assume anything higher than 82 degrees would be distorted heavily(?)
  6. thanks, guys. So, thinner the better. Any particular thicknesses known to work? I'll check out Fotodiox
  7. Hi I'm buying an M42 lens to use on my EOS DSLR for wide field images. In terms of getting this lens to focus at infinity, are there any particular M42 adapters that enable this, or do the all work equally well? There seem to be different thickness adapters and I want to get the right one so I can focus at infinity. Any ideas/experiences? Thanks, Rich
  8. Guys, I'm primarily a visual observer, but I am thinking about doing some very basic and simple imaging, more for fun than trying to get particularly proficient at it. I'm aware of the potential cost of getting fully "into" this side of things, and I'm not intending to go down that road. I just want to take the odd image here and there and have a bit of fun with it. My plan is to: - try a few prime focus shots of the moon or bright clusters with the DSLR using my refractor and possibly the MakCass, too. - Get some M42 lenses and attaching these to the DSLR to snap some wider fields of view, possibly on a friend's goto (my mount is manual) - Maybe try some video shots of the planets (much later on) With the M42 approach, what's people's experience with this? On the face of it, it appears to be a way of getting into this without breaking the bank. Interested in thoughts / experiences. Rich
  9. I've got a CG5 Sounds like this is the way to go... It just does look crude!
  10. Just picked up one of these lovely scopes second hand. The mount bar (vixen style dovetail) is continuous and doesn't have any holes/shapes in it to take the screws on my mount head. In essence the scope is just held in place by me screwing the nut very tight. Is his normal or is here a better way? I can't help but feel this is less secure than a normal camera tripod!
  11. I've yet to find it, but my wife thinks I am already spending too much time alone outside in the dark....
  12. Welcome, Stuart. I'm just down the road near Chesterfield
  13. Thanks for replies, guys. In terms of equipment to collimate with, I have a laser but would prefer a Chesire. Are there good and bad ones? Could you recommend a decent Chesire?
  14. Surely it should hold collimation when I take it off the mount one night and use it the next, right? The primary cell on the base of my Newt seems loose to me. Concern is that it won't hold collimation, even if I pick it up and set it down somewhere else. Am I correct that it doesn't need collimating in situ, ie on the mount? How frequently do people do this?
  15. thanks - I take it you can get it on the mount by yourself? Are you saying I may need to replace / fiddle with the primary's mounting springs to get decent collimation?
  16. The title says it all! I've just purchased a second hand Orion Optics Europa. Unfortunately it's not just suitable for me and I should have been more careful to consider what I want before buying (would sell if anyone's interested). Now wondering if a smaller 8" would be more suitable, but would like to understand peoples' experiences. Please share... Specifically interested in ability to get it on the mount as a one-person job, general workmanship of the unit, optical quality, the usual stuff
  17. I've just got a CG-5 mount. Very happy with it but I need another counterweight. I'm a bit taken aback by the cost of these, and wondered if an old barbell weight (suitably secured!) would work as a cheap alternative. Turns out the hole in the barbel weight is too big. What are people using as alternatives, or are you just paying the money and getting a "proper" counterweight?
  18. Thanks for this review of the VX. food for thought!
  19. So the 8" with hilux was better than the 10"?
  20. Thanks for replies 10" is the candidate. Don't know how old it is. How do the coatings hold,up.with time? R
  21. Guys Any real world experiences with one of these? How much do they weigh? (Thinking about a mount) I am thinking about getting one Thanks, Richard
  22. thanks guys. Yes - looking forward to getting back into it!
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