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Peter77

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About Peter77

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  1. To be honest, I think this is a very good image
  2. Throws in a link aswell: Was recommended by an observer, regarding solar filters, that glass filters of high quality was the best. I should say though that I have no experience with the Baader solarfilm that was mentioned earlier, so might be a good option as well. I've heard that this line of Astrozap glass filters is good. You have to know the outer diameter of the tube though so not only the aperture. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/index.php/cat/c61_Solar-Filters-for-white-light.html Also, if you're in the UK you might want to consider a UK retailer such as FLO because of the shipping cost. Not sure what Teleskop Express would charge for shipping to the UK? But atleast it should give you an idea what to look for.
  3. Rest assured, I would never buy a solarfilter that screws on the eyepiece. I didn't think that such were sold to be honest. No, what I intend is of course the kind that is fastened over the objective. Would not want anything to shatter inside the scope because of intense heat buildup (diagonal, eyepiece) now would I!
  4. The one accessory I could think of, that really would add another dimension in the use of the scope, would be a solar filter. I myself is planning to get one. When observing DSO and planets, one pretty much knows what to expect. The sun is dynamic and a living object that can be different from one time to another. Also it might double the chances to use the scope. It can be a clear day but a cloudy night. So that is my suggestion. The BST Starguider eyepieces as earlier mentioned, are also highly recommended. Very good quality for a good price. Best regards.
  5. Wow that diagonal would really match my 115mm triplet very well. Too bad I already have a high quality 2" 99% diagonal. But it sure would look splashing, and in very good condition too. But can't really justify the purchase. I wish you good look with the sale and I am sure someone else will be happy with the product. Sorry for this (for you nonproductive) post but please consider it as free advertising
  6. Agree about the glare. Tried to photograph it with phone through eyepiece and this is what I got. 100x mag if I remember correctly. Will try with a moonfilter next time observing. I think the the side facing us was almost fully sunlit that time.
  7. Good luck Also, I forgot to mention: Before I start with adjusting the lat/az knobs, I sight in on Polaris over the mount saddle. Kind of like sighting with iron sights on an old rifle. Hope this makes sense? Then I put the scope on and balance in RA/DEC etc. And then I proceed with the process described earlier. I use a 38mm (21x) eyepiece in the beginning when star aligning. And carefully align so that I have align star i center and same with calibration stars. It is not 100% polar aligned but fairly close. The whole process takes some 5-10 mins if you have the routine. And when I slew to objects when done, they're almost in the center up to 100x mag eyepiece. Also good enough for 30 sec exposure time imaging. So all I'm saying is: Don't fork out £300 on a polemaster just yet as I think you don't need it. You would also need to hook up computer with sharpcap etc making it not so spontaneous anymore. Instead get the location and time settings both on handcontrol and alt/az knobs as exact as possible. Check your lat/long coordinates f.ex in google maps. 10 mins and you're up and running. Always try to find ways to make it simple And, most important, have fun and enjoy
  8. Short answer: Eeeh, what? I don't. Sometimes If I know just about what I will be looking at, I adjust the height if the tripod so that the focuser/eyepiece part will come in an okay position. Adjusting the tripod so that the scope when paralell to the ground sits in a chest level position is usually good enough. Yet when doing this, I end up chosing targets that makes me kneel at the eyepiece and thats just how it is sometimes. Usually I can rotate the focuser part to make sure that the eyepiece comes in an okay position anyway. I don't use an observing chair. The more equipment I have to haul out, the more it ruins the grab and go feeling.
  9. I have an AVX mount. ANd living on lat 56 degr north means the polarscope is useless unless I don't want to poke my eye out because of the long handle on the bolt (and how the bleep can they sell a mount like this??) So I do this which is good enough for visual. I find out my lat and long position. This for entering locaton in handset. I set my lat adjustment on the mount as exact as possible. Then I adjust with the azimuth knobs until I have polaris fairly close on the finder. Then I do a two star alignment and add one or two calibration stars. This is good enough for visual. If you just do visual, don't over complicate things with a polemaster. Just adjust with the knobs as close as possible and also enter your position with lat/long coordinates and exact time. This makes my mount slew to chosen targets and put them almost always fairly in the middle of the eyepiece. I believe there should be a polar aligh routine in your mount, not sure about the menu location though. The avx has one that is said to be quite good. The option might be visible only after a star alignment routine has been done. Check the manual.
  10. I suppose a regrease is good, if the mount has a few years on its neck. When old, some grease tend to get chunky/hard. Other than that, it is a good and capable mount, so I would see how it performs first, before taking any decisions. I'm that "use what you have and see how it does kind of guy" It might just do very fine. I am also planning to get into the AP-hole. With an 115/800 triplet and an AVX mount, I'm sure I am in for a real blast. Avx is maybe not the best imaging mount, but found it used for good price, so planning to follow my own advice and see how it works first. I'm sure your mount will perform excellent with a little new lube and a small frac on it.
  11. Don't have much answers to your questions, but checked the camera and read some reviews on Amazon. Some mentioned that it took some fiddling to get to work, and some also mentioned, like you that they were able to focus on daytime terrestrial targets, but found it very difficult to focus on moon/planets. While others don't mention this. Not sure if it is related to focal length? Specs/info mention that it is best suited for FL between 4-800 mm. Having not owned a camera like this, I am not sure how this relates, but thought it worth mentioning. Reg. the setup/alignment, something seems to be not right. I've had evenings were just nothing seems to work, wrong stars showing up or scope slewing completely off for alignmentstars. Only to find that I've entered date in wrong format, dd/mm/yy instead of thr correct (but to me, being swedish, not intuitive) mm/dd/yy format. You seem fairly technical and knowledgeable, but mistakes happen to the best of us (it happened to me, haha) so just thought I'd mention this. Again, sorry for not being able to straighten your problems out, but just thought that some input is better than none. Hope you get it to work. It is quite a lightbucket you have
  12. I use this method too. AVX mount, pretty stiff in DEC-axis but a little more fluent in RA-axis. If shooting, I balance with camera etc on, before aligning etc.
  13. Can't find price on the Eos 700..? Edit: Ahh sorry, thought the camera was on sale too.
  14. Sorry for my misinformation regarding this. I was under the impression that it worked for both Canon as well as Nikon. My apologies and sorry for the inconvinience. Glad you could find it out via other ways.
  15. Hello. I do not have any answer to your guide problems But this thread came up when searching for the AVX mount here. I bought a used one. Planned to use for imaging. But as it behaves now, not even sure it is possible. For now I have a 115mm F7 triplet apo weighing 6.4kg (plus diagonal and EPs). When observing, when going over 100x and up, an oscillation/vibration starts to be visible. At first I thought it was wind or hard ground that caused some kind of resonance. But today with almost no wind and setup on softer ground, this issue still present itself. Causing problems to come to a satisfying focus because the image wobbles. This happens while tracking. Almost impossible to get a sharp image of stars in high magnification. The problem was not there an earlier day when I just set the mount up and pointed to polaris. No tracking, didnt even turn the mount on. There was also some wind. I removed covers over ra and dec to take a look at drive+wormwheel earlier but they were nicely tight so didn't touch anything. Also relieved tensionring a little for ra axis. But still has some stickyness. Does not move very smoothly. Dec axis is fine though, tips over by itself when just unclutching and touch it with finger. Not sure if this has helped though, maybe a little but just had a short session on Venus today, already hard to focus on. But did think I saw the same vibrations. Will have to have a longer session to evaluate if it did anything at all. I notice the symptoms when both tracking lunar and tracking sidereal. And being new to eq mounts I am not sure which axis is causing the problem. Been checking a few dissasembly pages and post, but havent quite plucked up the courage to go ahead. I am sure the mount could benefit from removal av the hard sticky overabundant factory grease, as well as checking for burrs and some light polishing. I've seen other complaints about this oscillation too. For now I just want to be able to observ with my mount and my new apo And am beginning to regret that I didn't choose another mount. Do anyone know what causes this problem and has any advice where to start? As said, been checking some of this pages about dissasembly but feels that they're not covering every exact step.. so that scares me off a little. I have allen keys, 1.27 to 1.5mm, and from 3 or 4mm up to 10mm. And pliers and sidecutters and lots of torx bits as well as screwbits both crossed and straight ones. So tools are not a problem. But still would appreciate some advice.. Going to order a tube of superlube soon. As a start I will degrease and regrease the drives and wormwheel and see if it does any difference. But I suspect the problem comes from within the axis assemblies themselves.
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