Skipper Billy

A friend of mine has used exactly that combination. The Redcat had to be exchanged (horrible star shape) but it now performs superbly.

To be honest the biggest step forward in your understanding of the way forward before you spend any money is to get this book and read it twice 😉 

It will save you a lot of money and grief.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html

1 minute ago, Cols Astro Journey said:

Thanks Billy, I also have a crop sensor DSLR which should allow the telescope to cover the whole sensor. I was just hoping that If I was able to use all three of my DSLR's then I could effectively have three telescopes for the price of one.

The other thing to consider is the weight of a full frame camera - a 'crop frame' DSLR is a lot for the focuser to hold square and steady - for many scopes the extra weight of something like a 5D swinging on the focuser could create a whole new set of problems!

10 minutes ago, Cols Astro Journey said:

Thanks Billy, much appreciated, is there anywhere I can find out which telescopes would cover a full frame sensor, or a table showing what each telescope is able to cover in terms of sensor size?

Not that I am aware of - its a question of finding out what size the 'imagine circle' is for a scope ypu may have in mind - for the SW 150 you mentioned it wont cover the full frame sensor.

BUT

There are very few scopes that will and the benefit is questionable - it's not enough to just cover the sensor - you need to cover the sensor with a flat field that gives sharp round stars right into the corners with minimal vignetting.

The simpler and less of a shock to the wallet is to use a 'cropped frame' sensor which is what most scopes are made to suit.

Not wishing to 'muddy the waters' but not all scopes will cover a full frame sensor.

I had a racing snail and I took its shell off to make it faster but if anything it seemed more 'sluggish' 😉 

When you get the Geoptik counterweights its worth giving them a couple of coats of clear varnish - they soon rust if you don't 😞  They shouldn't at that price - but they do or at least mine did and that's in a dehumidified obsy!

I have only used the Atik 460 and I loved it.

Very quiet, very sensitive, easy to use - taking flats was a breeze.

Really couldn't fault it.

I bought these http://www.strathspey.co.uk/shop/25x100.html and after many years of use they needed recollimating - I contacted the company (who offered to recollimate them for free) but after a chat about my astro interests and confirming that I was not a complete numpty they emailed me a PDF showing exactly where the screws were and how to collimate them - it took all of 5 mins to reach accurate collimation and 2 of those minutes was spent looking for a tiny wee screwdriver!

It isn't difficult 😉 

Mine is packed away for the summer but this is the one thing I had issues with when first setting it up.

I use the latest version of the Sitech software, PHD2 and SGP 

I had to try various combinations of reversal after flip in SGP, PHD2 and Sitech to get it to work and it was a bit of a faff - I also had to increase the underpole and overpole settings from memory although I cant remember why! I have never touched it since!!!!!

If you get really stuck I will drag it out of hibernation and send you the relevant screen dumps.

It still feels like witchcraft when it platesolves, flips, platesolves, adjusts, starts PHD2 and carries on like nothing happened 😉 

Is there nowhere in the UK that could repair it?

You might find this document interesting - essentially its how to get the best out pf PHD2.

Second item down on this page. https://www.davidbanksastro.com/how-to

I went a similar route to Barkis

The power box has multiple 12v outputs plus a 5v out and a 19v out (for the PC) powered by a 12v 150aH leisure battery.

Total cost about £20

Circled in yellow here

Yes - but use a good quality one.

This one gets lots of thumbs ups.

https://transparent-uk.com/startech-com-7-port-industrial-usb-2-0-hub-with-esd-350w-surge-protection-st7200usbm.html?mkwid=s_dc|pcrid|44074791843|pkw||pmt|&mh_keyword=&bnine=true&gclid=Cj0KCQjwncT1BRDhARIsAOQF9Ln_rN9nLzdrahhoEghI3fg_YFDjUmoSvQQoaM7YmSBsm6GqTPlF5FcaAnfMEALw_wcB

A spot of dark red nail varnish over the light works wonders - dims it but still visible in the dark.

4 hours ago, Geoff Lister said:

These are some current measurements that I made on my mounts, including my Skyliner 250PX with Synscan handset.

These are some of my power sources:-

Most of the time I use the 12V, 2A plug-top supply, at the end of a mains extension lead, with the supply (and lead end) in an old shoe box - to avoid any dew problems. I found that I needed to extend the 12V lead to avoid cord-wrap, and used white, heavy-duty, multi-strand, bell flex - the white shows up better in the dark (reduced trip hazard); and, because bell flex does not need the extra insulation outer sleeve required on mains wire, it is more flexible.

Geoff

Now there is an aeromodeller!!!  3s lipo - neat soldering - servo extension leads..... 😉 

Nope never seen that - are you running the very latest version?? I found the focus routine in v3.x.x much better than previous versions.

2 hours ago, skywest said:

I may try my bench power supply first then as that way I can see the current draw in action.

Be very careful with mains equipment outdoors that wasn't designed for outdoor use!  RCD = essential!! 

Great video - it really shows the importance in a nice simple way. Well done.

8 minutes ago, RayD said:

Off centre equipment affects the balance point on a third axis.

I was told way back to balance in all 3 axis and whilst the weight of the filter wheel off to one side makes little difference on my current rig on a previous rig which was a very light newt with an EFW2 and a heavy camera balancing the third axis made an enormous difference.

Or some photographs......

23 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

4 hours ago, Skipper Billy said:

It would be more helpful for the OP if you said what advice you believe is incorrect. 

I have just pointed out the errors in the EQ6 astro baby strip down, based on the job the OP needs to do, there was no point in telling them that the CW locking nut does not need to be tightened as per the guide, (again as tight as possible with half a turn back) as that would have been pointless... 👍

Your statement implied that there was other information than the bit about the CW locking nut that are incorrect. We would all benefit from knowing what the errors are. I am not picking a fight I just want to be clear about what is erroneous as many people rely on that guide as the 'bible' for stripping and fixing that particular mount.

7 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

That is very dated now and some things are incorrect...like in there it tells you so lock the locking ring as tight as it will go until it causes binding, then back off slightly, well by that time you could have damaged the bearings, so I would not use that...there is other incorrect advice in there  too....just my opinion...  😉

It would be more helpful for the OP if you said what advice you believe is incorrect. 

You might find this useful

http://www.astro-baby.com/EQ6 rebuild guide/EQ6 Strip Down Home.htm

45 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

.a blob of super glue will help

DO NOT use superglue!!!!  Use low strength threadlock like Loctite 222. You will be glad when you come to adjust it or strip it down 😉 

Dont overtighten them - they aren't supposed to be tight - just snug.