Skipper Billy

PS if that doesnt work yhen the camera may need to be further in - is that a spacer between the scope and the knurled ring ??  Can you remove it??

Looks like you don't have enough range in the focuser to achieve focus. 

Try pulling the camera further out of the scope. If you still cant achieve focus try making a tube from card as a temporary measure and see if you can achieve focus. Once you have achieved focus you can measure what length of extension tube you will need. You can do this in daylight - then tweak it on a star.

This is a similar scope and similar camera - but you can clearly see the extension tube between the camera and scope.

2 hours ago, TerryMcK said:

Just noticed your website and stumbled upon Mitzi. I had a red Mark III from 1971 (J reg) and loved that little car. Not a bit like Mitzi though. Sadly mine expired a few years ago after I sold it to a guy who drove it into the ground and never put in any oil! It's probably now a fridge!

That's unforgivable !!! There aren't that many left now esp. the early ones.

This document might help you

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IuxD4QFi9wOfRbrxfXrls3Eas9SevJ1a/view

39 minutes ago, TerryMcK said:

What sort of skycam do you have Billy?

Its a home made contraption but the camera in it is a ZWO ASI 178 colour withg an Arecont 180º lens. 

HEQ5 - you can always do the belt mod at a later date.

7 minutes ago, Erling G-P said:

Regarding mirror cleaning; does anyone know if the factory applied center markings on Skywatcher's mirrors will survive the above recommended soak in soap water, and the distilled water rinse afterwards ?

Yep - well mine did!

I would suggest that it's not normal - mine runs stone cold.

Does anyone know if the trial period starts when you download the programme or when you start using it??

I would be very keen to download it and start setting stuff up and checking that it meets my needs but I wont be able to try it under the stars until August.

Very bright International Space Station pass last night - missed the second one - clouded over as usual! Hard to believe that there are people inside that tin can travelling at 17000 mph 300 miles up travelling right round the globe (disc to the flat earthers 😉  ) every 90 mins.

Your English is much better than my Spanish!

Try to pick the heading that best fits your enquiry - dont worry if you get it wrong - one of the mods will move it to the most appropriate section.

Links can be pasted into a message

Most documents can be attached by using the 'drag files here to attach' function at the bottom of each message.

Join in and have fun!

¡Tu inglés es mucho mejor que mi español!

Intente elegir el encabezado que mejor se adapte a su consulta; no se preocupe si se equivoca, una de las modificaciones lo moverá a la sección más adecuada.

Los enlaces se pueden pegar en un mensaje La mayoría de los documentos se pueden adjuntar usando la función 'arrastrar archivos aquí para adjuntar' en la parte inferior de cada mensaje.

¡Únete y diviértete!

28 minutes ago, Physopto said:

Surely that means the filter wheel is not fit for purpose ! Atik should be ashamed to produce such a device and such a well known name as well.

It's not a problem when it's used in the dark - which I guess is what it's designed for 😉 

If I was going to go to the trouble of putting together a two camera rig then I would want the best quality and greatest flexibilty possible ie a two mono camera outfit.

You are going to need a BEEFY mount!!

You can use your existing guide camera and use the polar routine in Sharpcap - probably the easiest and cheapest solution??

https://www.sharpcap.co.uk/sharpcap/features/polar-alignment

It seems a lot of effort to avoid a Meridian flip. I used to avoid flips if I could but now it is setup to do it without any intervention it's a non issue.

Well done - neat solution and 10/10 for perseverance!

Lovely image and I hope you are encouraged to keep at it despite the lack of darkness - another 6  weeks and the nights will be drawing in again! 😉 

I spent many hours messing about with filter offsets and in the end I gave up.

What I did learn was that my scope (Tak 106 EDX IV) is VERY temperature sensitive and I got much better results by telling SGP to refocus on every filter change and again with every 0.5 degree temperature change. It is more time consuming but I have kept an eye on what the offsets would be if I was to use them and they vary by =/- 80% !!! Almost entirely dependant on temperature.

Not sure that this helps but its an observation that might be worth thinking about.

Turn the LED's off !! 😉 

I get the same issue with my EFW3 - I traced it down by taking darks indoors in a dark room whilst shining a torch all around the camera and filter wheel. I cured it by putting strips of self adhesive aluminium tape over the affected areas which were the cable entry/motor housing on the EFW and the cooling vents of the camera.

Slainte from the Highlands!

I have that combo and I love it!!

You will have two choices when connecting the camera to the filter wheel - either with the bracket that comes with it or by direct connection. I chose direct connection as I like to work on the basis 'least parts possible is best'.

Thats all there is to it really but do shout out if I can be of any help.

Just found a video that shows how....

I started off with APT but it didn't do everything I wanted it to do so I moved to SGP which does do everything I want it to do - BUT - it has a few slightly annoying shortcomings and can be a bit 'flaky' so just before the next season starts I will be trialling Voyager.

I did once dabble with Maxi DL5 but it didn't float my boat.

I use Polemaster to get close (I have tried Sharpcap and got very similar results to Polemaster) then I use drift alignment in PHD2 to get spot on. I only have to do this once at the start of each season. (Obsy based)

I found that both Polemaster and Sharpcap to be quite sensitive to the seeing whereas drift alignment isn't - but it takes a good bit longer. I usually dedicate a night of poor seeing/clouds etc to getting polar aligned and double checking focus on guide scope and all software properly working and taking a full library of darks, flats and bias then I ready to rumble when good conditions appear.

11 minutes ago, steppenwolf said:

I think that you'll find it well worth following up - the more I get into it, the more I like it and I have just spent a very happy afternoon setting up and running a full session from gear turn ON and opening the observatory to gear shut down observatory and gear turn OFF with everything but autofocus, guiding and plate-solving in the mix but I have also tested those three separately a few nights ago and they too were very impressive, especially the built in acquire and focus routine.  Impressive stuff carried out from a different angle that I really like.

Thanks Steve - if it's good enough for you it's certainly good enough for me !!!

Will report back in August.

I must confess I had never heard of this software until yesterday !!

I am an SGP user but based on what's been said and the pedigree of the people using it and liking it I will definitely be giving a try out when darkness returns (August).

Following with interest!!

You can use any size SD card but you must reformat it using exFAT structure first.

The camera will work just fine - not using its full potential but it will work just fine.