Skipper Billy

Tried all sorts in Autostakkert - all the same issue.

Tried a (well hidden!) script in Pixinsight and although it took just over an hour to stack it is a much better result. Just need to figure out how to tidy up the limb now in Photoshop - any suggestions??

pixinsight moon.tif

Thanks Craig - will try that.

Last nights moon - anyone any idea what the vertical marks are on the lit portion of the image ?? Its 80 raw files run through PIPP, Autostakkert and Registax - best 80% of 106 images.

This is all new to me - I usually curse the moon but as we don't have any darkness now I thought I would try to image it!

Canon 70D with a SW ED72 Evostar (my guide scope off my imaging rig).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/113316085@N05/49948330427/in/album-72157662766199285/

As long as you have got the ducting in then there is no rush for the cable. Put a couple of mousing lines in to pull stuff through and when you pull a cable through tie another mouse line to it so you still have two.

Loving it!

Are you using a tracking mount?

You cannot guide with your imaging camera - the guide cam needs to clatter away at a frame every 1 - 3 seconds ie whilst the imaging camera is working.

Just going back to the original post - the poster says he doesn't have much time and wants to be future proof.

Not wishing to lob a hand grenade in but a mono camera is much quicker at gathering precious photons and is certainly more future proof.

Any good?? Out of stock at the moment but they are usually available.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-powerstrip-fuse-protected-power-distribution-board.html

11 items currently for sale and 370+ sold in the past - no photos for any items. Hmmmmm.........

You could always bolt a hefty weight to the front of the dovetail then side it further back?

This is 5kg bolted to the front of my rig to move it back so that the dew shield doesn't touch the walls of the observatory.

I am sure John won't mind me posting his email address here - he is the guy who makes Strathspey binoculars and I feel sure he would repair them for you.

john@unixnerd.demon.co.uk

I had a similar issue on a Canon EOS some years ago.

From memory the cure was to take the battery out. Whilst keeping the shutter button pressed down turn it back on and keep the shutter button pressed down for about 3 seconds. Release the button. Turn it off. Put the battery back in and turn it on and hopefully it's cured !!

Have you got Magic Lantern installed - I have heard of that causing similar issues too.

Most Intel NUC's run quite happily at 12v. I have an i5 with 16gb ram and SSD and extra USB ports etc and it has run off 12v for 2 years - I did try it at 19v but there was absolutely no difference.

Cant help you with that - I am strictly a CCD kind of guy (old school!). Never used a CMOS camera sorry.

Your suggestion B will make sure you get an image albeit it could be limited data but if you refocus on every filter change you will use a lot of time focusing instead of imaging! Don't believe the hype about filters being parfocal.

Personally, I decide how long my chosen target will be visible and how long I can image for - is it a 'school day' or weekend etc. Then lets say I have 6 hours and the target is visible throughout. I will take 3 hours of Lum binned 1x1 and an hour each of RGB binned 2x2.  If I am imaging in narrowband then I usually split the time available into thirds and bin 1x1. Occasionally I will just take RGB binned 1x1 ie no Lum in which case the time is split into equal thirds.   If a session is clouded over you can always carry on where you left off.

The only calibration frames that are dependant on the optical train are flats - darks and bias not dependant on imaging train. I have always built a library of flats for every exp time I am likely to use and for each filter and each binning. I have recently learned of one world class imager that takes flats with Lum and uses them for all subs irrespective of the filter used working on the basis that dust is most likely to be on the sensor or sensor window ie not on the filters. I am going to try this next season. If it's good enough for him it's certainly good enough for me !!! Just need to make sure the filters are clean.

My filter wheel is loaded L R G B HA Sii Oiii - purely so I can remember the order although it is computer controlled.

Welcome to mono imaging - it's great when you get your head round it!!

If you decide to repair it and need any advice then do let me know - we are wooden & fibreglass boat builders/repairers so we have some idea about what we are doing 😉  

We also have good trade contacts for materials dont be going and paying high street prices!!

Feel free to PM me rather than clutter up the thread. Happy to help in any way we can.

1 hour ago, RayD said:

Yes this can happen in frame and focus when using the high speed download function, and changes in severity depending on sensor.  With the 16200 it could be particularly bad, sometimes pretty much washing the image out.  Unchecking "use high speed download" in the camera module fixed this.  

Cheers Ray - I have learned something! 😉 

18 hours ago, RayD said:

If using frame and focus in SGPro make sure the 'high speed download' box in unticked.

Does that make a difference Ray??

One thing I found that made a difference was turning off the IR light on the obsy night vision webcam - much better with it turned off.

Colour cameras are a little less sensitive but not by much these days. If it would open up another avenue to you I would go for the colour camera.  

The Esprit on a Sirius (HEQ5 in the UK) should be a match made in heaven and the mount should take that in its stride.

1 hour ago, almcl said:

Thanks for running that through CCD inspector, Skipper Billy.

No problem - I cant help you with the collimation question sorry - reflectors give me a strange feeling that men in white coats might not be too far away 😉 

Did you get it sorted ??

Looks like your collimation is a wee bit off ??

100aH battery is the sweet spot - any less and its just less power and not much cheaper - any more and it gets difficult to carry.

I would try downloading Sharpcap - it will pick the best exposure for you whilst you are setting it up in daylight. It's free!

https://www.sharpcap.co.uk/