Physopto

Oh dear, don't let my wife here that, I may loose a shed!

As long as it works great. 

Derek

Do you use the shed next to it as a warm room? Nice build.

Derek

I'm sure he is but maybe not the Observatory

Hi ArmyAirForce

Just as an idea, probably far too late. Why not fold the upper section onto the Wendy house roof instead. May be easier to fold up and down. Also if you seal the edge as a hinge it will be a bit more rain proof. Then there is only one section to run on the aluminium runners.

Nice build by the way.

Derek

Looking good. Where does the kettle go?

Derek

Beautiful view. I suppose you will need a shovel to dig out the snow , better than  a flood. But really starting to look good. I envy you the dark skies.

Derek

Don't put the door on until the roof is done 

May get a shock on opening it after the next down pour

Derek

Starting to look really good. Nice to see it when it's  finished.

Derek

I always try to use reclaimed timber now as it has done most of its warping. Lucky find at that price.

Derek

I want to know what a "Game Ray Burst" is.        

It is nice when things come together. I am sure you will feel much better when it is all done and you can easily set everything going in a few minutes. If you are going to be out in your observatory for a while I would fit an intercom system!

Derek

D... and Something else.

Not to worry we will just charge you the refund costs.........    

Hi Damian,

What is happening with your scope? Not heard a squeak out of you about it for a while. Mike is getting worried, rope lines, tickets, booths to set up, the list goes on..........   Tick tock...

Derek

You might want to raise the pillar in future so I do not advise cutting the excess threads off. It would be a sod to cut out the threaded bars to replace at a later date. Denso can be got off very easily but rain cannot touch it. I have seen it on many ships in the worst weather you can imagine and it is solid. Some of the power companies use it on their bolts that hold down the wind turbines, it is also used on the bolts holding the very big road signs on motorways.

Derek

Coat the studs with either Waxoyl or as I used at sea many eons ago Denso tape. Just do not get it (Denso) on your hands as it is an allergen, and a sod to remove..

Looks the job, nice!

Derek

I am glad for you. Now tell us the same in a months time

Derek

Looks like you have enough left over soil  for a rockery !  Been there and done it (14 x 8 ton skips ) and mostly dug by hand.

Alarm cable?

Derek

Why didn't you just weld a pier to the drain cover and save all that backache?

Concrete party on Thursday!

Good luck and have fun. Ouch me back!

Thanks for the help and encouragement - and the heads up about the waterproofing additive - I didn't know such a thing existed - concrete is a black art for me !!

The main source of encouragement was last night - got set up - temp according to the focus system was minus 7.2 - 4 x 300 sec subs into a run of 70 thick freezing fog appeared and covered everything in a thick haw frost. Made packing up a bit of an ordeal !!

 Try this website for more info.

http://gbr.sika.com/en/builders-merchants-diy/builders-merchants-diy/02a024/02a024sa02.html

You do not need their expensive sand just well washed sharp sand. Your local builder may be able to supply it. Often they tell you it is washed but sometimes in WHAT, as it sure as heck is not fresh water. Wicks can supply washed sharp sand. Any salts will cause a track for water or moisture to penetrate and will leave  white deposits on the surface after a while.  What ever you do, do not use dish washing detergent to act as a plasticiser, as it will add salt!!! If you want that get the correct additive. At this time of year best to use a frostproofer. just be sure it is Sika friendly if you use it.

+4 deg and rising is spot on advice.

Ice starts forming even before the air temp gets to freezing as the ground radiates heat into space. As the temp falls Ice crystals grow in size.  If I can remember my physics, this takes place from 0 deg down to about -4 deg. Which is what causes the cracking of newly setting concrete/cement. A frost proofer retards the ice formation to below these temperatures. (not sure exactly what temps though, may vary by manufacturer).

Best of luck.

Derek

Now that is an idea for Billy's observatory.........Warm feet Ooooooh!

The site looks great. Nice outlook.

I will watch you posts with interest.

I am sure you will have thought about it but just in case you haven't as yet, you can waterproof the concrete mix with Sika 1. I think it may be called Sika Proof now. It stops water penetration. In the presence of water it forms a waxy layer in the concrete and becomes a barrier to moisture. Also as you are pouring at this time of year I would use an accelerator if Sika allows,( I cannot remember).  A few years ago I put in new foundations and tanked the internal walls of the house. If you only use washed sharp sand it can be waterproofed that way. Yellow sand cannot as it is porous. Finally if you have  spare fibreglass insulation and a tarp cover it for a week to keep frost off the surface as it will destroy the finished surface. (I have included a pic on of some the foundation work).

I will be very interested in your progress. I only have a base down  as now not going to finish mine as moving.

Best of luck with the build.

Derek

Why not just stick a camera on it and forget the steps.

Come join the dark side Damian.

Derek

If the gap is under the dovetail bar, then that is correct. The bar should be clamped at the sides by the dovetails in the mount clamp when properly tightened. The EQ8 has three clamp bolts and holds the dovetail very tightly. It may be also preferable to tighten them by hand, then a fraction more using a spanner, carefully!

You can also use a socket on a small ratchet. Remember only a slight bit more on the tightening, no more than a tenth of a turn.

Derek

Took off a couple hours early Wed & today to finish the last few pieces of siding which didn’t get put up last weekend because I ran out of time. Each panel was primed (2 coats) on the back side as well as all edges to protect against moisture. All corners will get trim boards but not until after the roof is complete. In the meantime, all joints have been sealed with heavy duty exterior caulking & it took just over 3 gals of good quality paint to cover the finished side since T1-11 soaks up paint like a sponge. I’m confident the siding is now well protected from the elements so will start working on the ROR supporting framework tomorrow, if it doesn’t rain.

Still a little early to say I’m coming down the home stretch but think I’m beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel... 

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Hi Scorpius,

That is definitely starting to look good. I will be interested to see the finished item.

I especially like the guard dog, really fierce looking!

Derek