jetstream

The secondary might not be exactly centered under the focuser, a piece of paper to block the primary can help to see it well and the crosshairs aren't exactly centered on the primary dot. That being said the views would most likely be sharpish, with the collimated beam slightly off center in the eyepiece.

5 hours ago, MSammon said:

I’ve decided to go for the APM Lunt XWA 13mm

Once again congrats for an excellent choice, if my 20mm Lunt HDC is any indication as to the 13mm Lunt 100 deg performance then you won't be missing much (if at all) with regards to the 13E, IMO. You have excellent optics, very well thought out.

And now Mr MSammon, its time for you to try this bad boy out and observe! eagerly waiting reports, Gerry

Can I be a bit contrary here and suggest something around 14mm-17mm?

This object is so bright that it takes more mag very well, espc under dark skies. The darker the sky the more it grows.... I absolutely quit trying to get it all in the FOV at once, and concentrate on the many features it offers along its course.

Just now, MSammon said:

Yes I got my Cheshire now

Excellent!

A cheshire is your friend and a newts best friend.....

A slight amount of miscollimation (primary espc) will defeat all your VG ep purchases for lunar planetary. However, collimate well, cool it well, get it under dark skies with good seeing and hang on!!

1 minute ago, MSammon said:

I can’t see a downside to them over my 5mm Pentax XW

you will on the planets and moon once you have your scope well collimated under VG seeing....but thats OK they (XW's) are sharper than ETHOS too,

I second Mikes experienced recommendation.

Very nice choice!

ps these offer better contrast than ES series EP's IMHO...

                                     or

NAGLERS...                                

12 minutes ago, MSammon said:

full set of Naglers

A 13mmish hyperwide or Delos will be great for M42's core and galaxies in general, ie M81,M82, Needle galaxy, M51,M101,M33.........

Question- why Naglers? there is a chance that Delos are a step up in contrast and transmission...

Which DSO types?

Large nebula, filtered 4mm-6mm, with the 4mm range working from less than dark skies.

Galaxy cores down to 1mm (orthos), dependent on the focal length of the scope.

For galaxies in general try to maintain as much eye illumination as possible while getting the needed object size to see (focal length). Your VX12 f5.3 will offer great flexibility in eyepiece selection for this with its VG 1600mm focal length.

@John which are your EP's of choice in these scopes for DSO?

If it were me I'd go bigger than 5" or 6" aperture over your 100mm Tak. 8" minimum, 10" is better IMHO. Many have great luck with Celestron C8's, narrow FOV but nice aperture in a small package.

One thing is for sure- taking a 5" refractor over an obstructed 6" Mak or newt is the way to go on DSO... my reference point is from my current scopes 90mm thru 120mm fracs, 8" through to 24" dobs.

From my perspective a 10" f4.7 newt really starts to open up DSO, such as my VX10. Just my thoughts of course.

Docter 12.5mm UWA (Noblex).

On 16/07/2019 at 14:22, mdstuart said:

I will have to look up a local supplier of mild steel and find someone who can bend it for me.

How did you make out Mark?

I just got thinking that @faulksy is pretty dang handy and might be able to make them if your stuck. Mike is a VG fabricator...

1 hour ago, MSammon said:

So if I get a TuBlug, which i was looking at earlier. Do I just get that and any laser or do I need the Howie Glatter laser? Is the Tublug an alternative to the combo tool? Really sorry for all the questions. 

Perfectly fine, sorry to disappear for a bit but T bone steaks went on sale and the BBQ just did a fantastic job!lol!

Any laser will work- but the beam can't wobble around if you rotate it- Glatters are VG as are Randy's at Astrosystems in the States.

The laser inserts into the TuBlug and is then an extremely effective barlowed laser with a cutout screen...

A sight tube is needed to center the sec under the focuser accurately, so yes the combo tool (or stand alone sight tube) is needed. All this sounds daunting but it is very very easy....

@MSammon you might want to seriously consider a TuBlug from FLO down the road. The combo tool will be good to start with IMHO.

The laser in the link is an Orion I think

https://www.telescope.com/Orion-LaserMate-Deluxe-II-Telescope-Laser-Collimator/productVariantId/0/p/102109.uts

Buy this, not the more expensive red one. You can accurately collimate with it.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/other-collimation-tools/astro-essentials-cheshire-collimating-eyepiece.html

41 minutes ago, MSammon said:

Christ I thought it was easy enough with just a collimation cap haha. I ideally would like a laser so I don't have to go back and forth from the primary. Saving money for a bit. Will have to get something soon though as I gave away my collimation cap lol

You need the combo tool first, for the sight tube feature, to center the sec under the focuser which will automatically give proper offset.

You can then use the laser to line up the sec to primary- put the laser dot in the donut.

You can then use a BARLOWED laser in a Hotech cut out collimator or Glatters TuBlug. This image is from wookies great link.

PS- the combo tool will do all you need... once you de confuse what you see through it IMHO.

http://www.smartavtweaks.com/RVBL.html

10 minutes ago, MSammon said:

found it here. I don't know why it says it's for a refractor and the reflector one is longer?
https://www.365astronomy.com/Collimating-Eyepiece-for-Refractor-Telescopes-Short-Collimator.html

This tool only does the primary.

A sight tube is also needed, which has a longer tube to put the crosshairs down a bit so you can see them,-a combination tool- has both a sight tube and cheshire built in- they can be confusing for people.

When adjusting sec with a combo tool, cover the cut out...IMHO. It reduces visual confusion.

2 minutes ago, mdstuart said:

Where can I get some or what can I use as a substitute?

Mark, if it were me I would get some mild steel "flat bar" put it in a vise and hammer it over- how thick is the bracket? I quick drill and tap and done or any machine shop can do it.

This place in the states has a mind boggling array of products

https://www.mcmaster.com/corner-brackets

On 15/07/2019 at 01:08, Stu said:

I have a full set of the original BGOs which I use regularly still.

You know Stu, you could sell me those if you want...😀

1 minute ago, John said:

Yes, thats the one that I use Gerry. I got mine free with a Skywatcher dob a few years back.

I thought it might be, I'm amazed at the accuracy of these John, as checked against more expensive tools.

On 14/07/2019 at 18:15, MSammon said:

Thinking a laser and £5 collimation cap should be plenty?

Some cheshire/sight tube combination tools are very "busy" visually, adding confusion. I use a similar (cheaper plastic SW) version of this refractor collimator (newts too) in the f5 Heritage 130 for primary collimation with accurate results. I also use a cheap Celestron combination tool- like @John possibly that is dead on.

16 hours ago, Littleguy80 said:

I personally like my Cheshire. Takes me one to two minutes to collimate the primary at the beginning of a session. Easily done with a red torch in the dark. No batteries required. I’ve always been put off by the fact that laser collimaters require collimating themselves. The pictures below isn’t the best but gives an idea of easy it is to see if you’re properly collimated. Might need to zoom in a little. There are plenty of better example pictures on here.

Neil, which ones are the crosshairs to line the secondary up? the thick ones or thin ones?

4 hours ago, A McEwan said:

Thoughts?

The 16T5 Nagler I have is a good lightweight eyepiece, no better optically than the 18mm ES 82. If you want better optics, get a Delos- Very deep, contrasty eyepieces- they are heavier though.

6 hours ago, MSammon said:

do you mostly do trial and error?

This is very costly- just ask me.

I would heed Johns advice for brands and maybe place the NEW Televue line in there too, which might be top line Astronomiks.

I am still leery of Lumicon eventhough I have 2 superb ones... BUT...the 2" Hb I purchased tainted me for the brand possibly forever. Same goes for Kniselys Orion Ultrablock recommendation, I got burned on that one too.

Knisely is a fantastic resource and honest- some of these brands can have extreme sample to sample variation though and brand quality can change as well ie Lumicon.

Our DGM NPB is very good, the older Astronomik OIII is VG but a bit wide, the older Astronomik Hb of mine is superb, and the older non laminated Lumicon UHC and OIII are the top of the top... these are my good filters.

If it were me I'd go Astronomik or NEW Televue. Eagerly waiting @John test results of the new Televue filters.