Bagginsies

Managed a few pictures tonight, but there were lot's of cloud about which was making most images a little blurry around the edges. At 1/200 on the Moon you couldn't really tell the difference, I thought there was a little, but not enough to completely ruin an image and 'seeing' would be a bigger factor I think. I have added the best of the RAW files for mirror lock up and not. Mainly looking at the right hand edge detail. After moving to Alkaid in the Plough constellation, I managed 4 images (had to go to Iso 6400) of the star with the DSLR attached to the scope. At 1/200 with mirror lock up the star was pin sharp and slightly worse with the mirror not locked. At 1/50 there was definitely more movement especially with the mirror slap. I don't think this would be enough to completely ruin your Moon shot's, but does show that at short exposure, mirror lock up can help. No mirror lock up IMG_9270.CR2 Mirror lock up IMG_9273.CR2

Just read a post on here about Venus being blurry and one possible cause was also the optics not being allowed to cool down enough? Just thoughts to try out? 2 or three factors combined could make it worse i.e. no mirror lock up, not cooled enough and bad seeing means not a great shot?

Hopefully get a chance tonight 🤞 Below is where I found the info about shorter exposures having mirror lock up, not longer. Whether it will make a difference at 1/200sec exposures, not 100%, but non-astro pictures aren't usually taken at telescope size focal lengths making any movement/vibration more noticable, most non-astro would be less than 300mm. Like I said, no expert, but just a thought.

My first picture of Venus through a telescope from February this year. I had the Canon 60D attached to the scope whilst using a barlow lens and the crop factor mode in the Canon camera. Managed a 30 second video, centered in PIPP and stacked in Registax. I can just make out the phase, but there is a bit of chromatic aberration going on (I think it's that anyway?) which I couldn't get rid of. Really looking forward to trying Saturn and Jupiter later this month or next as I have also now collimated my scope.

I think you will find it is the other way around. A long 60 second exposure doesn't need the mirror locked up as the first couple of seconds vibration are not noticed due to the other 58 seconds of light gathering. On a 1/200 or 1/250 exposure the split second the mirror flips up the camera will shake and this will be the only bit captured. I have read this online on a very informative website, but not sure I am allowed to post the link? I maybe have an hour or two tonight with no cloud 🤞🙏 so will try a single image with and without to show the difference.

It is the same as the one in the bottom picture. 👍

It does amaze me how technology has progressed! I will try a video and stacking next time as you say and also try to get the camera closer to the lens to stop the outside edges going funny (don't know what you would call it, abberation?). Just need another clear night which is a bit rare in the UK at the moment 🤣 Yes, I got it from eBay for around £8. I couldn't hold it still enough without one.

A couple of nights ago I decided to test my Google Pixel 3a on my telescope with a 10mm Plossl eyepiece...….these are straight from the phone, not editing. Must say I was amazed how they turned out for a phone!

As you probably know the shimmering is caused by the atmosphere and I do find on the better 'seeing' nights with the least shimmer my pictures do come out better. I am no expert, but there are a few different ways to image the Moon to help combat the shimmer, but before I start imaging the moon, the main things I do are; use a bahtinov mask and a star to get really good focus and for single frames, I set the mirror lock up feature to on! For still frames (which I normally find gives me best results), I take 8-10 RAW files as shown in my first post. If you are using a DSLR when you take stills, the mirror lock up feature will help stop any vibration/shake from the camera/telescope. What I do is press the button to take a picture once which locks the mirror up, wait 4 seconds to allow the telescope/camera vibrations to settle, press the button again to take the picture, lock the mirror up again and wait 4 seconds....repeat for the 8 pictures. This way I get a cleaner image that isn't blurred ready for focus stacking in AF. You can also take video. With a DSLR I usually do 30 frames/sec for 30 seconds giving me 900 frames @1920x1080. As I have a Canon I then use PIPP (free software) to convert the file for use in Registax (free software) to stack the final image. The only thing I find with this is the image is always smaller than 1920 x 1080. Using a CCD could give better/larger resolution ( don't know, never owned one) so may give better results, but for me I prefer the single image focus stacking method. Hope this helps. Clear skies 🙂

Probably my most successful night so far 🙂 I managed to image the Moon and the Orion Nebula and to be honest was amazed at Orion due to the Moon being up whilst I took subs. I figured Orion would be bright enough after my first 60 second image showed some good detail. All taken with an unmodded Canon 60D attached prime onto a Celestron 130SLT on an Advanced VX mount. I do have to use a barlow lens due to not enough 'in' focus, but I have this as close to the sensor as possible. The Moon: 8 x 1/200sec ; ISO400 ; F5 - Focus stacked and edited in Affinity Photo (AF). I find I get a better image by using RAW photo's and stacking in AF than I do taking a video and using Registax. Maybe due to the higher resolution? The Orion Nebula: 71 x 60sec ; ISO 1600 ; F5 - Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker and final edits in Affinity Photo. I found that it was best to align RGB in DSS which gave me more detail to play with in AF. I also think the star with the weird light effect on the left is caused by the focuser barrel still sticking inside the tube. Hoping to save for a more astrophotography friendly scope soon 🙂

Managed to get some subs last night (27 Feb 2020). Not great as there was a thin layer of moisture coming and going, but to be honest I was just looking to see if I could find it. Somehow I figured out how to use the GoTo RA/Dec menu on my mount as well, or I would have never found it! 🙂 With the bad weather I was constantly waiting for it to cloud over, but managed 23 x 90sec subs stacked on the comet with 10 dark and 10 bias. Stacked in DSS, final edits in Affinity Photo, still a lot to learn, but happy with what I got. Have added the .tif file if anyone wants to give it a go. 20200226 Comet T2 cloudy.tif

Nice moon picture with good detail, its a great feeling seeing that detail in your pictures isn't it 🙂 Welcome to the forums 👍

Decided to move to the dark side 🙂

An interesting video just posted by Avocette. I am no expert so won't comment, but it was an interesting watch.

A quick try at Andromeda last night. It looked like it was clearing nicely, but once set up and taking frames the moisture was building up very quickly on everything! Managed 20 X 30s exposures with a Canon 60D @ 200mm with a 75-300 kit lens before the lens started fogging up. Piggy backed into the Nexstar GOTO 130SLT. Also did 10 darks and 10 bias frames. Stacked in DSS and final edits in Affinity Photo (AF). I'm working my way around AF and trying out new ways of doing things; masks, levels etc. Quite happy with it and sure I can make it look better with some more editing practice.

Just been pointed to this thread after my first post with Alt Az imaging! AMAZING images peeps! Looks like I have 145 pages of posts to look back on for inspiration and learning! My post here....

That is my next mission for Andromeda, Double Cluster etc. 👍

I thought I had seen that thread before! Cheers for the link!

Found what I was looking for. Thanks for the link Vlaiv! 👍

I currently use a Celestron Nexstar 130SLT with a Canon 60D. I have to use a Barlow to get enough 'in focus' which is a 2" size. I have found that the distance from the sensor changes magnification (can't remember the proper name for this type of lens) so will fit the moon/sun into the frame better. I currently use an SVBony adaptor which puts the Barlow about 2 inches from the sensor (an inch less than the original extender). There are adaptors that will work on eBay that will move the Barlow another inch closer to the sensor (as below) which will fit the moon into the frame with enough room to spare. My problem is they are from China or Russia and can be costly for postage or risk non tracked free postage. Is there anywhere in the UK they can be bought from?

Hey all, Having started imaging again, but not having money for some of the more expensive setups, I bought a second hand Celestron Nexstar 130 SLT. I will upgrade eventually, but for now am enjoying the challenge. Having done some research online and found that you can do short exposure imaging with Alt-Az mounts, I also found out you can get the longest exposures by having the target near to 90'/270' Az and 40' Alt. This will give the least amount of field rotation due to lack of EQ mount. There is a good website about this, but haven't linked as I am not sure I can 'plug' the website. I used a Canon 60D, unmodified and used the option to lock the mirror up. Once the mirror was up I waited 5 seconds for the scope to settle the vibrations and then took the exposure. Also noticed any strongish wind would cause vibration due to lack of scope stability (legs all the way in to help) Last night we had some clear spells with mist layers here and there. I decided to just check out exposure times. I 'Skyaligned' the scope and used a bahtinov mask for focus (forgot to lock the focus!....schoolboy error!). I took 43x13s exposures of Orion at ISO 3200 and also took some dark and bias frames. Stacked in DSS and final edits in Affinity Photo (still learning, especially masks) As a final test I pointed the scope and Pollux which was at 90' Az 40' Alt and took a 30s exposure. Happy that there didn't seem to be any noticeable rotation of local stars. To be honest I am quite happy with how they came out and looking forward to catching some more information. Learning a lot using the Alt-Az setup, but definitely have my eyes on upgrading to an EQ mount and a larger Mak type scope. I do miss my old Nexstar 6SE!

Nice pictures Science562h. I haven't looked into filters etc yet, I am still at the 'point the telescope at it, focus, take a 30 second movie and let registax do it's magic' stage! A lot more to understand about filters, etc and a lot more YouTube videos to watch 🙂

Still aiming for the Moon due to the rubbish weather we have had in Hampshire! Managed 3 pictures so far this month, but I am gutted it is forecast cloudy for the Penumbral Eclipse tomorrow 😞 Plenty more in the year though so fingers crossed! Tonight's Moon and a trio of my moons so far in January. Still lots of room for improvement and it is very much still hit and miss for me.