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Posts posted by mrflib

  1. There are just so many moving parts on this thing that the launch isn't the most nerve-wracking part. 

    Part of me hopes that there can be many, more simple, large telescopes launched on board SpaceX Starships instead of these hugely expensive flag ship telescopes. 

    The NSA gave NASA two extra Hubble telescopes (obviously need significant modification) that were made to point at the earth rather than away from it. Send those up! 

    In my opinion more is better rather than best-that-can-be all eggs in one basket launches. 

    • Like 1
  2. I had all sorts of problems with the StarXterminator. It'd remove the stars but leave large areas of background and fill it with a base colour - no noise, just smooth - stands out like a sore thumb.

    I think the issue is halos around the stars are sometimes detected as stars.

    On the other hand, your image looks bloody amazing and it's done a fab job for you!


    Thanks for sharing.

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, vlaiv said:

    Stars are elongated - there is some trailing.

    I think that trailing is either poor polar alignment or periodic error - not optical issue. If we exclude trailing - I think stars will be OK and that optics is fine.

    Cheers dude.

    I ran out as soon as the kids were in bed and set up as quick as I could (no pier) - by the time I was focused I had time for 30 seconds of sub only, with no polar alignment. I aimed the mount at a tree that's roughly north 😛

  4. 2 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

    I don't know enough to say whether you can draw any conclusion from those subs.
    But, I would be hopeful, as doesn't look like it has been disastrous.

    How did it slip ?
    Did the whole dovetail slip through the clamp?


    I've got no idea, it actually fell out sideways, as in rolled out, not up or down sliding. Very odd. I'm thinking it looks "ok" too, as in, the stars are equally crap everywhere.

  5. No idea what happened, I swear I had it securly in the mount by the dovetail. It landed dew-shied first and chipped a bit of paint off the corner. My 3D printed top-rail then took the rest of the impact.

    From what I can see the glass looks fine.

    To check it last night I managed to get set up under clouds and got one 30 second sub before overcast. I couldn't polar align.

    Can anything be said of this sub that scope is ok/not ok, or do I need more data?


    Preview_000_30.0s_Bin1_gain100.fit Preview_000_30.0s_Bin1_gain100.tif

  6. I'm looking to develop some rules of thumb which I can stick to. I am pretty much exclusively an imager.

    I have an ASIAIR Pro which can control the dew heater straps % power through the app. I don't think it's in any way automated though, so unless I'm up I need to set and forget. Obvs if I'm awake I can adjust.

    Because I image on battery a lot, the dew straps work out as one of the biggest drainers, so I'd like to make this as efficient as possible.

    So on my 115mm refractor, how high in % terms should I be running the Lynx Astro dew strap? The colder it is, the more power I run through it? The more degrees below dew point, the more power I run through it? Just whack it on 75% and go to the pub?

    I've seen plenty of arguements on various forums about where to position the strap, but not a lot on how much power to give it.




  7. I've tried to email a couple of times in the last 2 weeks, tried to call a few times - no response to email and no one to answer the phone.

    I have a stock enquiry (website says to email to check stock). I don't want to pay them if they're out of stock and won't be possible to get a refund!

    Supplier reviews threads are all locked, so posted in the only place I could think would accomodate a thread such as this.



  8. 1 hour ago, peter shah said:

    Lovely work Peter, one of my favourite targets

    Cheers mate! I only have access to Northern skies from my garden so I'm on the hunt for good ones that 500 to 800mm focal lengths will excel at if you have any tips - my horizon in Stellarium attached.


  9. This is my 2nd attempt at photography, and this was way harder to process than the last. Starting to feel I understand what over-processing is!

    This is only one hour of data so I need to start actually getting some reasonable time on targets and hopefully that will help with the noise.

    The 2600MC is quite something. Still trying to shoot things with the light-polliution busing L-Extreme filter.

    I need to work out what's going on with tracking or field flatness or something. 






    • Like 5
  10. Some fool,- definitely not me - was trying to drink a glass of Sainbury's Cava whilst adjusting the scope on the mount.

    The mount was pointed at the NCP, and the dovetail slipped through the mount grips and to the floor. 'Definitely not me' managed to 'save' it from concrete with the interjection of a well placed foot and not a small amount of Cava was lost.

    After I got it back on I noticed that the 3" Crayford Focuser was slipping out and the EAF could move it out, but not back in/up. I Googled it and properly tighted a hex screw and that issue appears to be fixed.

    However, when I took the flats from last time I was out vs this time - I get something different - which worries me. The scope seems to be totally shifted over on the flats.

    I've uploaded a single light frame from last night also.

    Any ideas?




    So I have found this morning that loosening the hex bolt under the focuser moves the flat circle back to centre. However, this also means the focus moves loosely and falls back. I can find no way to loosen the hex screw and keep it tight - there appears to be no opposing tension screw on the top. 





  11. 4 hours ago, Catanonia said:

    If you are using the ASI AIR, try these 2 tricks for framing.

    • Take a preview image and then do a long press somewhere on the the picture with your finger. ASIAIr will let you centre to where you long pressed. With practice you can centre where you like. MUCH easier than messing with cursor controls.
    • Once you are framed and have a picture, you can view it anytime in the image management section and there is an option to goto that precise location by plate solving. VERY handy if you re-visit a target you have previously framed.

    Hope this helps


    Awesome thank you for those they are going to be helpful.

    My son has decided that we should try for the Bubble Nebula tonight so we'll give it a go

    • Like 1
  12. 36 minutes ago, newbie alert said:

    If you're using NINA for PA  then why not use it to frame and plate solve 

    As for the guidescope,which one are you trying to use? It's either a focus or exposure issue..

    Nice image, your next one will be awesome 

    Hey mate

    I'm hoping to use the ASIAIR I have so I can monitor it from the house. If I can't get it all to work then I can fall back to the laptop for sure. I need to work out a method of getting things framed. 

    Is it possible to plate solve an existing image off of the internet and get the scope to plate solve to that to help with framing? So you kind of get the scope to where it needs to be and then manually slew to the exact place?

    I'll dig around, I know I saw somthing on Telescopius.

  13. 2 hours ago, david_taurus83 said:

    The halos are caused by the filter. I've seen lots of images produced by the Lextreme and they all seem to have halos on bright stars. Small though, they don't take away from the image.

    Ah right ok, thanks for this. Lee said below he photoshops them out.

    2 hours ago, Lee_P said:

    Here's my Elephant's Trunk using the same camera and filter, Bortle 8, and also following @Luke Newbould's excellent tutorial. Regarding halos around stars, I fix those as part of my standard workflow: after making a starless version using Starnet++, I then clean up any aberrations -- including the leftover halos -- using the clone tool in Photoshop.


    Hey Lee - I found your website the other day. You've clearly put a lot of work in to it and it is becoming a great resource. Cheers for doing what you do. Helpin' us nubs. You capture here tells me that 90mins of data aint gonna cut it and I need to get more blue nebulosity data.

    2 hours ago, nephilim said:

    Nice one mate. That target was also my first ever image a couple of months back using exactly the same video.HubblestarsIC1396.thumb.png.44fc31eaeebb92711da8e46d2963d0b5.png

    Dude that Samyang is just nuts. Nice one.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  14. 8 hours ago, assouptro said:

    If that’s your first image! I can’t wait to see what you are capable of in the months ahead! 
    very nice processing, framing probably needs a bit of work but overall bloody brilliant! 

    Thanks for sharing 


    Wow thanks mate, honestly it's all don to that PI tutorial I linked. And the fact the Optolong L-Extreme / 2600MC are just so outrageously good. 

    Lots to learn but I'm excited to get more data. That was only 98 mins


  15. Hi

    This is my first image of anything so I'm sure there's a million errors which I couldn't even begin to appreciate. I couldn't get my guidescope to focus at all so this is unguided. Good polar alignment thanks to NINA's Three Point Alignment might have saved the session somewhat.

    This is 49 x 120s subs through the Optolong L-Extreme Filter taken last night after I lobbed the guide scope in a bush. 11 rejected frames from me poking said guidescope while imaging (lesson learned).

    Bortle 8, Dartford, UK

    Altair Astro 115mm APO from 2013

    0.79 TS reducer


    Pixinsight to put it together and stuff. Followed Lukomatico's noob guide and he's the man (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV6ObLVRvNk)

    Some weird halos on the stars, no idea what that's about.

    Framing - no idea - just told the scope to aim at it and go. Probably need to work on that strat. 



    • Like 13
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