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tekkydave

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Posts posted by tekkydave

  1. The best place to start is the Ascom website. It has some very clear explanations of what Ascom is all about. There are also some links to videos that show you how to create a driver. Thats how I picked it up. I intend to create a standard installer for my driver but I dont get much time to spend on it at the moment.

    Sent from my Samsung G4S using Tapatalk.

  2. The biggest issue I have had is how to fix the focuser to the ota. There are no easy mounting points on the 127 and I don't fancy drilling holes. Hence the cork block solution. It may be temporary for now and will probably make way for a better connection to the dovetail but commercial clamps are expensive, around £60 last time I looked. Maybe I need to find someone with a 3D printer :grin:

  3. I have created a sourceforge page to host the software & documentation. This is the first time I have used SF so I don't really know what I'm doing :grin:.

    https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuser/

    At the moment all I have done is upload the Arduino sketch and the Visual Studio solution.

    The VS solution contains 3 projects:

    AAF2 - the Ascom driver

    AAF2Test - a command line test program

    FocusAAF2 - a simple Winforms client application to drive the focuser.

    This was built using Visual Studio 2010 and you will need the Ascom platform 6.1 and Ascom Developer Tools installed. I haven't tried building it with any of the free 'express' versions of VS.

    I'll be adding documentation to the wiki over the next few weeks including parts list, schematic plus anything else I think is relevant. The code still needs some work but I've put it up as-is so you can take a look. Ive used Subversion for source code control as its what im most familiar with. If you need a client I can recommend TortoiseSVN which makes life easier as it integrates into the Windows Explorer.

  4. I had a go at making a remote focuser to use with my 127MAK a while back http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/202282-ascom-and-arduino/

    At the time It was a purely manual device with a 5-way switch to set the direction and speed with a rotary encoder to do fine adjustments. I wanted to turn it into an Ascom-driven device so I can use it remotely from my PC. It also needed a better way of attaching to the scope tube as I was using an old belt to keep it in place which wasn't always reliable.

    So, since then I have got to grips with writing Ascom drivers which isn't as painful as you might think. I chose C#, which I already had a grounding in and used Visual Studio 2010 and the Ascom Platform & Developer Tools. I have a working device based on an Arduino Nano and associated sketch. The sketch is a modified version of the one I wrote for the mk1 device with the code for the switch and rotary encoder removed. I have added additional code so the nano can interface with the Ascom Driver. I had to decide on the format of the messages sent to/from the nano by the driver but apart from that most of the work in the driver is already done for you in the template. I plan to document the driver, sketch and circuit diagram in due course.

    I have also decided to move the components to a smaller box to make it easier to fix to the scope.

    I needed a way to fix the device that was secure and simple. The dovetail bar on the ota projects back a little from the mount when it is clamped up and I made it longer still by removing it and replacing it reversed back to front. I had a mild brainwave and decided to cut up some old cork place mats to make a simple dovetail clamp/mounting plate.

    I started by cutting a cardboard template then used that to cut out the cork mats. I needed two with the dovetail shape cut out and two with just the profile of the ota.

    post-28249-0-57129500-1402863183_thumb.j

    The next step was to drill out the centre of a toothed cog to fit over the focus knob on the ota. With the mk1 device I was simply putting the belt over the focus knob and relying on friction to stop it slipping which wasn't always reliable.

    post-28249-0-87008100-1402863528_thumb.j

    post-28249-0-63774800-1402863839_thumb.j

    I then glued all the cork pieces together to make a single lightweight block which will slide over the end of the dovetail and which I can mount the focuser device on.

    post-28249-0-13259900-1402863742_thumb.j

    post-28249-0-63102300-1402863784_thumb.j

    The next step will be to mount the rest of the components in the box and mount it on the cork block.

    • Like 3
  5. My ASI120MC has a CS-mount fitting as well, so one of these with a 5mm C to CS fitting might work if you can find one  that will ship to the UK:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-EF-EFs-lens-to-C-Mount-Film-Movie-Bolex-Video-Camera-CCTV-Adapter-Ring-/321292437097

    Unless they don't provide the CS mount any more?

    James

    I have the recent model with an M42/T2 thread on the front of the case. I haven't noticed a CS-mount thread anywhere. The all-sky lens supplied with the camera has a T2 thread on the rear.

  6. Update:

    I have located one by Teleskop-Service which is being sold by 365Astronomy for £51.60.

    http://www.365astronomy.com/ts-ccd-adapter-for-canon-eos-lens-to-t2-with-145mm-optical-length-p-3899.html

    Currently out of stock so placed on back-order.

    I think this is the cheapest option in the UK and it comes with three T2 extension rings to get the correct focus distance.

    Only cheaper option would be to make it yourself but I don't have the equipment.

  7. Yes, I always use a polyester resin for fixing bolts into concrete. Not necessarily the Fischer brand, though.

    It does set pretty quick, so you have to have your wits about you (and all the parts, too). The nozzles contain a criss-cross plastic insert to mix the resin and the hardener. After one job, the resin in the nozzle will set solid, so you want to do all your holes one after the other - so have them all pre-drilled.

    I used a similar adhesive to bolt down a greenhouse base to a concrete base back in 2002. As far as I know it's still there.
    • Like 1
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