Split Zygote2

Hello John think I bought a HEQ5 black version (non go-to) from you a few years ago. I have realigned the focuser using this adjustment on my SkyWatcher solid tube 250 dob fitted with the single speed basic focuser. In essence I flocked the tube, which involved removing all the optical components, then having put it all back together again I squared the focuser to the tube and re-centered the secondary, I also replaced the bearings, added adjustable counterweights, fitted rudimentary but effective setting circles and wheels. THEN I bought the latest greatest collimation device and destroyed the already pretty good collimation ... it takes a while getting this back - then (some people take longer to learn than others) I went and bought the newest latest greatest collimation device v. 2.0 and repeated the process ... and so it goes ad infinitum. Nowadays I just use the pole star! Apropos the focuser Why it's got a bad press I just don't know? Sample variation? Mine albeit single speed on a fast focal ratio scope is very precise (easy to find focus) and can hold a paracorr and Nagler 31 most adequately albeit not vertically as would sometimes be the case with a refractor. (minus the paracorr of course) The focuser on my Tak 130 NFB the 4 inch diameter drawer-tubed, huge ginormous one (bought new) racked out under its own weight and a 2inch diagonal ... not a little creep but an accelerating mass that hit the stops with a thunk that vibrated the whole scope and made you fear for the collimation. My Tak FC - 100DZ focuser didn't rack out but was so stiff that turning the focuser moved the scope off target. Both these issues took not a little time to resolve. So I am a BIIIG fan of this SW focuser. My SW 130PDS has the 2 speed version and that too has been hassle free and a joy to use - Roger Vine if memory serves commented on this focuser by saying "It is a gem" (as fitted to his 16 inch go to SW Dob). Note however that I did true up the flat bearing surface that interfaces with the focuser pinion (on the dob) by hand using a perfectly flat Japanese waterstone . Note also that for me the 10 inch Dob will outperform the 5 inch Tak (as it should) but only on a night of near perfect seeing otherwise it's pretty much of a draw. The Tak will however give me a better aesthetic experience - way better contrast, no light scatter, no diffraction spikes etc ....... or so I keep telling myself. Sorry gone off topic a bit! Just thought my 120 Equinox has a similar focuser and that has also been exceptional holding binoviewers equipped with dual morpheus eyepieces very well. No image shift or backlash is apparent in any of my examples of these SW focusers Michael

Hopefully below you may or may not see a scope with a Baader sliding counterweight on the far side.; the clamp is a V70 and it slides along a vixen rail parallel and opposite to the primary dovetail. The 1 kilo weights attach both to the V70 clamp and also screw to each other. Typically I use one to three stacked to slide backwards and forwards at need to balance the scope fore and aft when changing from mono to bino viewing or indeed from heavy wide angle 2 inch eyepieces to high power eyepieces. In my view it's a matter of personal choice. I much prefer the look of the Tak mounting cradle that you use and indeed have one but I also prefer the convenience of counterbalancing different set ups fore and aft with a sliding weight rather than moving the whole OTA backwards and forwards. "You pays your money and......"

Hello, I have a TOA 130 and find that for mono viewing wrapping divers' lead weights (these are soft plastic coated) on a cut down waist belt around the tube near the focuser to be very helpful and unusually cost effective way of minimising the length of the arc through which the eyepiece travels on this heroically front heavy scope when moving from the horizon to zenith (and I have the heavier NFB focuser). Typically I will add 3 kilos to the back end. Moreover by placing the weights asymmetrically around the tube it is possible to balance the scope in 3 axes i.e. to allow for the imbalance caused by bino-viewers for example where the scope is balanced when horizontal but not when vertical or at say 45 degrees. Additionally when using the scope in mono I find the 1.5 ED extender pretty much lives on the back end. I find this to be invisible in use and it helps with the fore aft balance by moving the prism and and eyepiece further away from the objective. I find it to be more convenient that say a powermate as it goes between the scope and the diagonal and not the diagonal and the eyepiece so causing less problems in 3 axis balance. Of course it does tend to put the eyepiece nearer the ground when viewing vertically. I second the comment above about a quick release for the finder scope and as you have fitted, a handle is pretty much essential although in my case I have tube rings and the handle is a Baader affair attached to a extra dovetail the other side of the OTA by two V70 clamps. I mostly use the scope with binoviewers which largely dispenses with the need for the divers' weights as described above. Note: as you use the scope on the AZ100 you might find my comments as linked below at the bottom of page 43 and over onto the next page(44) of interest. My TOA usually mounts on a AZ-EQ6 attached to a permanent pier outside. https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/345938-rowan-az100-mount-owners-thread/page/43/ but note that a stop to prevent the dovetails sliding out of the clamps is essential I would also suggest if you haven't got something already getting a raincoat of sorts that will quickly throw over the scope. I have certainly had rain (not much admittedly) fall on me out of a clear sky. Additionally it will provide more peace of mind while the scope is cooling to ambient. Note I am not talking about a full on scope cover. If you root around on the internet you may be able to find Roland Christen's comments on how to best look after your scope and prevent condensation after the viewing session. During the session although the dew shield on the TOA is not minimal I still fit an extension in the form of an astrozap affair and it hasn't dewed up as yet. Performance, well faultless to my eyes. It outperforms my 10 inch dobsonian on the moon on all but the most exceptional of nights when the dobsonian wins comfortably. Compared to the 120 Equinox, hard to say that it will reveal any extra detail but the contrast is greater, the colour correction better and it is more a question of a better aesthetic, less scatter, pinpoint stars, more saturated colour etc. I got it up to 700x plus magnification on one clear, transparent and still night before I ran out of eyepieces. The image was dim certainly but had not broken down into a mush - the Equinox alongside threw up its hands and surrendered at around 470x. (still a very creditable effort). To put it into photographic terms and you may not have had experience of this as it references technology from the Dark Ages the ED120 approximate the result of a medium format 6x4.5cm negative, the TAK a 6x7cm negative, the Dob a 4x5 inch negative. (I spent a lot of time in the darkroom in times past) Enjoy your scope, they are waaay better than our skies! Michael

I can only echo the sentiments of those above. I read the news with a sinking feeling in my stomach. I didn't know John but I have read his posts over many years, always with interest and with a keen anticipation; they have informed my purchase decisions as they did for many others. All good wishes to his family and friends at this very sad time. Michael.

Maybe but I would live with it a little it might be that adjusting the damper control and re balancing the scope helps. I adjusted the mesh of the worms when I first got mine but I left in about a 1/12th of a turn of free play when changing direction as the gearing reverses.

If you scroll down to the bottom of the page you will see my post there and also some follow ideas top of the next page.

Hello, sorry for the late reply but have only just seen your post. I guess you have seen the picture below but just in case... The AZ100 (I have one) only has one lock and it is the vertical knob to the right and on top of the horizontal altitude axis labelled altitude lock below. The clutches are the similarly lobe shaped knobs - the altitude clutch rotates with the mount the azimuth does not. However you will see other smaller knobs in the picture called damping adjusters mounted orthogonally to the altitude lock there are two pairs of these one for each axis one on the back and one on the front of the mount and it may be that you are mistaking these for locks. How do they all function? Well first the altitude lock does not lock the altitude axis it brakes it to the extent that you tighten it up. Done up as hard as possible by hand it will facilitate changing from a heavy eyepiece to a lighter one and then you then rebalance the scope. It will not in my experience lock the axis completely say when changing from bino viewers to a light eyepiece and the scope will likely do a nosedive as both the lock and and the clutches slip. So care must be exercised when using this lock as it may suddenly give. After its use typically when changing eyepieces it should be disengaged before using the mount. The damping adjusters are independent of the clutches and they enable you to dial out any backlash in the system so that when you centre an object and let go of the scope or slo-mo wheels it stays where you left it and the object doesn't drift up or down or left to right. These are used only when using the slo-mo cables and are generally done up equally back and front. They work best when the scope is well balanced but will help with a slight imbalance - essentially another measure of control. You can use the mount in 3 modes 1. Everything almost loosened off and you then push it around the sky. Tends to blow around in the breeze! 2. With the clutches a little tighter; you can either push the scope around and/or use the slo-mo having found the sweet spot where the clutches will slip but will also hold enough for the slo-mo gears to turn the axes 3. Finally you can use tighter clutches that you loosen off to acquire targets and then tighten up rather more than in number 2 and then exclusively use the slo-mo.You would do this if the scope was not balanced say when using binoviewers at high altitude targets. Note it is not such a good idea to tighten the clutches right up and then push the scope by hand as there is then a real danger of damaging the worm and worm gear. The mount should be operated only with the slo-mo controls to track if the clutches are tightened right up - making sure to loosen them off before slewing around the sky to a different target. I generally go with option number 2 and I do not use the slo-mo all that much. Enjoy your mount I have spent a lot on other alt az mounts and the AZ100 is by far superior to most. I note from the time of your post that you are either very dedicated or in a different time zone. Hope that the above will help you. I shall post another link to 3rd axis balancing but if I go off hunting this post will have doubtless escaped when I return!

Thanks once again

Thank you for your input. I shall have a go. Was thinking of going that route before my question BUT transferring the images I need from my iPad to the laptop is a pain so was trying to go the easy route which sometimes ends up not so.... Good to know that others have similar issues with mobile devices, thought it was just my practised incompetence, and the fact that they sense my antipathy! Thanks again to you both for your time and detailed help.

Thanks for replying - I have tried that - sort of but it terminally messed up the formatting. In that instance I think the issue was related to the idiosyncrasies caused by using an iPad and iOS which currently cannot seem to even to get pictures in Pages inserted where you want to put them. I mean it used to do so but then an update doubtless came along to further improve the functionality. Shall fire up the Desktop and try again. Advice much appreciated though.

Can anybody please point me in the direction of any tutorials/advice/whatever on how to post to the forum. Self evidently I can but the post in question is a long post and occasionally, doubtless due to user error and a really stupid right index finger, my posts disappear from this continuum before they are even finished. Can you for instance avoid this issue by posting a PDF file OR maybe better still save your work thus far either to finish later or to prevent its possible disappearance. My son says I am an IT MUPPET! Thanks Michael

You are welcome.

Hello Proxima, Yes I have it, a recent purchase used on about 6 occasions so far. With the essential caveat of "One man's meat is another man's poison" here are my initial impressions. My example is well constructed (with precise welds) of suitably robust metal, and the fitting of the black crosspieces (or feet) is both solid and well engineered to resist twist. The quality of finish is high and all is finished with a hard wearing powder coat (?) that is well applied with no runs or flaws. However, the black plastic end caps fitted on to the end of the black cross pieces (these contact the ground) whilst being perfectly adequate when used on wood or grass will likely wear badly if dragged around on concete or paving slabs. The padding of the seat is generous and the covering is extreemly well sewn and attached (no staple guns used here) and for me the angle of the chair back is most comfortable giving more of a sit upon experiance as opposed to the something that you perch on experiance that some chairs provide. It is lighter than my previous seat by Mey and more convenient in use. In use the distance between the front of the seat at its lowest setting and the far side of the backstay i.e. the maximum front to back measurement is circa 88cms, essential to know if you are short of space in a small dome. For me at 6ft 2 inch and 15 stone it feels both solid and safe and gives enough range of adjustment to view near the horizon and at the zenith with my excessively front heavy 130 mm refractors provided the tripod or pier is at set at the optimal height. The only NEGATIVE is that it can be initially, 'til you get the hang of it, a little fiddly to adjust the height of the seat. The black nylon (?) cams shown below MUST be located precisely into the semi circular indentations (you will note they are stepped with both a smaller and a larger diameter, the smaller is the one that locates into the indentations). If the cams are made longer (and this I did - then quickly undid!) they foul the backstay when adjusting the height. If you look carefully you will note where the backstay is located a cap head screw, then the main frame, two washers, followed by the backstay and out of sight a nyloc nut. This very tight clearance gives good resistance to twist and is I guess the reason for the dimensions of the black cams. If the cams are not correctly located the seat will twist and fall off the frame. This was for me an initial concern but in use after a little practice it becomes very easy to both adjust the seat height in the dark and to check that all is well (a sideways wiggle of the chair seat just prior to sitting does it for me). Having said that, once installed correctly it is hard for the seat to come adrift in use unless picked up by the front of the squab - a BIG NO, NO. The chair can be moved around by the tubular, horizontal handle (above the A cutout) and tilted every which way and all is well. After a few nights use, for me the chair inspires confidence and is way more comfortable to sit on than my previous chair. The seat is genrously deep front to back and doesn't seem to mind how you sit on it on it perched on the front, sat well back, or perched on the corners it just does its job. The white finish looks very smart and having walked into my black chair many times, white is the one I went for. Modifications Note: you can just see a white nylon stop on the backstay lower left of the above picture - this is not original but something I added to locate the seat when it is collapsed for transport. Also I have fitted very slightly longer cap head screws to fix the black nylon cams - the originals screws almost (but didn't quite) support them for their entire width - probably a quite unecessary mod. A further note on the cams as I have strayed into Cam Territory , Black Nylon (if nylon it be) ......... I am a little unsure of the long term suitability of this material for its intended use - I mean I am sure it will outlast me (at an age that I am certainly not going to admit to) but for a fifty year service life? Dunno! Mere speculation on my part, others with an engineering background will know better. However I have no way of knowing one way or the other ... other than, so far so good! When used at maximum extension this generic footstool (intermittently to be found at Lidl I guess) is a match made in heaven. A final note: the Asterion seat can accomodate bumpy grass and slight slopes beter than my Mey Musician's Chair which in its defense has had its safety stop blocks removed to adjust the seat lower. But the Mey seat sqab split, it screeches loudly when adjusted and it has banged my shins once too many times - it is also very heavy (although doubtless well designed for its intended use by a double base player or percussionist). The Asterion left; The Mey right - the Mey does not go as low even with the safety stops removed nor does it go as high BUT it is more compact front to back if space is limited and it trundles along on back wheels most happily if tilted Hence the new purchase of the Asterion. In conclusion there are seats by Berlebach that you might look at - I thought them to be a little too expensive (Berlebach have already had postitively oodles and noodles of my money) and anecdotally I have read (but do not know first hand) that their seat padding is a little less than generous. If I lost it would I buy the Asterion again? Sure, yes indeedy and quite quickly! Note my comments apply to my particular example - something that is not emphasised often enough. Michael

Yes and no. With longer scopes I do not, I just grab the diagonal as there is obviously a longer lever which confers more control. In truth I wouldn't engage the clutches at all but there is both the wind and your eye sockets which together conspire to move you off target - focusing also. So I use the minimal clutch tension that ameliorates these issues. This happens to be enough to enable the slow motion controls as well. I do find that for seamless operation I have to play with the dampening controls a little even for use without the slo-mo (regardless of what it says in the manual) With the TeleVue I have started to use the slo-mo controls with custom cut down cables which Rowan are happy to supply. A radial movement of say a centimetre at the focuser end with a small scope will move you off target more than the same centimetre movement when using a longer scope. Having said that I dislike slo-mo controls but probably because I am not all that used to them. As I am sure you know the slo-mo controls are helpful moving the scope when pointed at the zenith - not so much leverage from the scope. You cannot cuddle a refractor in the same way that you can cuddle a Dob to move it when pointed straight up .... and would you even want to? The optional handle for the AZ 100 may help with short tubes but unless it can be mounted other than directly in line with the dovetail clamp (i.e. at an angle like the AZ4) then its assistance viewing the zenith would be marginal.

AND finally solution no.3 (leaving no stone unturned is a character flaw I am afraid) . Same set up as my previous post with the clamps offset by 90 degrees but re-arranged to provide some horizontal counterbalance with the weights this time lowered with respect to the mounts horizontal axis rather than the scope - obviously fewer weights would require more lowering. The simplest most elegant solution requiring only one extra dovetail plate and no drilling. The fore and aft balancing of this particular scope with a 31mm Nagler at the back is problematic hence my preferred solution is in my 2nd post, note in this context an AZ4, Ercole or even TeleVue's own alt/az offered only a partial remedy. As regards as whether to offset the scope or the weights... Any scope gets exponentially heavier in relation to its price - a scope of 10 kilos costing £20 a kilo is way lighter than a 10 kilo scope costing £100s per kilo. Sliding such a scope up and down in the dovetail with cold fingers in the dark seems to me to be an accident waiting in the wings. Falling counterweights are always less of an issue broken feet or little heads notwithstanding! I have already dropped a few hints to Rowan but they are quite understandably busy with more pressing priorities.