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Psychobilly

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Posts posted by Psychobilly

  1. I'm lucky because my "scope" is a 600/f4L IS USM Lens so provided there is a sunspot visible I just let the Cameras AF take care of it...

    I get better results using liveview AF which uses the imaging sensor to do the focusing. Combined with Focus Priority shutter release it seems to work quite well...

    Peter...

     

  2. There used to be an a program called DSLR focus that I used to use.. it would take looped exposures and analyze the image ...  A Bhatinov or Y mask makes critical focusing a lot easier...

    Some of the brighter targets will work well with lots of 5 second exposures...

    Image upload over USB 1.1 is guite slow.. so once you have got focus / framing sorted you might want to capture just to the card... But checking the images on a monitor screen is much easier than the tiny screen on the back of the 350D...

    The relatively low MP count of the 350D means quite large pixels which can be a good thing...

    I hadn't looked at my 350D images for a few years but was pleasantly surprised looking at them again just now...

    Modifying the 350D needs a bit of de-soldering and re-soldering - there a metal screen over the back of the imaging unit that's solderd to the pcb the HA response is greatly improved if you do it...

    Peter...

     

    • Like 1
  3. The 350D was my first "dedicated"  astro DSLR  I did a full spectrum mod on it (filter removal)...

    For your 5s exposures you should be able to use the timer mode in Eos utils  to grab a sequence of images .. that's how I started with it...

    The serial shutter cables are pretty easy to make if you know which end of a soldering iron gets hot...

    http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/dslr/CanonRelease.html

    There are some of my early pics with the 350D on here...

    https://picasaweb.google.com/PsychoBillyUK/AstrophotograhyMainlyCPC800AndMegrez72

    Peter...

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. OK ... lets try the old  fashioned cut and paste jobbie then...

    It's worth bearing in mind no matter how fancy the setup you use your best efforts especially if they are displayed online can be undone by the browser people are using to display the images...

    I use a Dell Ultrasharp 30 bit monitor with hardware calibration  and 30 bit GPU... here's a screen grab of the same printer/monitor test image displayed simultaneously side by side  in Edge and Chrome... (Chrome gives the "faithful" reproduction and Edge/IE give it a "boost")

    Microsoft Edge Browser (Over saturated)  v  Google Chrome (pretty much the same as Adobe CC)

    Edge%20v%20Chrome.jpg

    Peter...

     

    Looks like you click on the "snippet" rather than the link these days...

     

  5.  

    1 hour ago, steppenwolf said:

    I have found these incredibly cheap dimmers to be excellent for all sorts of tasks including dew control. Be VERY careful to wire the 12v input the right way round to avoid a 'click' and the escape of the grey gas inside each component inside the box.

    ........ and NO, I am not prepared to tell you how I know this despite the fact that +ve and -ve inputs are very clearly printed right by the terminals.

    On a brighter note, the four way connector has been re-used for another project and the whole unit originally cost less than a similar connector available in the UK :icon_biggrin:

     

    9 minutes ago, steppenwolf said:

    .....errrrr, yessss, yesss that's right some other clutz's experience, of course ............ :angel:

    The scope doctor at work in his lab...

    doctor-who-despicable-me-nefario-kandyma

     

    • Like 3
  6. One thing to watch with a lot of these dimmers is they control the output by switching the ground side of the load so if you are putting multiple channels in the same box you need to insulate the  individual phono sockets ground tabs - plastic boxes are ideal ...

    Peter...

     

     

    • Like 2
  7. Mr H as I always called him - A true Gent and a world class imager - For him It was all about quality and not about quantity...

    He , Like so many other people on here, provided me with a lot of help an encouragement when I started out.   I was  completely the  other way around in my "Space tourist" days all about quantity and questionable quality...

    All the best for the future Mr H.

    Peter...

     

     

  8. WIA = Windows Image Acquisition

    It looks like some of the Canon Wireless Adaptors  did allow control of the camera in PTP using the extensions to the basic protocol but it looks like you cant use PTP over USB to control the camera...

    Peter...

     

  9. 22 minutes ago, Demonperformer said:

    Not sure if

    
    http://en.code-bude.net/2013/10/14/workaround-canon-eos-300d-windows-7-drivers/

    will help? (there aren't any drivers, but apparently there's a workaround)

    I think that PTP  (Picture Transfer Protocol) only allows transfer of images and not remote control... I might be wrong mind ...

    A bit more digging - the Camera manufacturers have extended the basic PTP Protocol...

    https://www.circuitsathome.com/canon-eos-cameras-principles-of-interfacing-and-library-description

    More info here...

    http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3543736

    And some info from one post on DPREVIEW...

    "Ok I reloaded EOS utility and I can download photo's if it is set to PRINT/PTP but can not change any of the user info like my name that I want to remove before I sell this camera.

    When I click on Camera Setting/Remote shooting a message come up stating I need to change to PC connection to access this option. But the computer states it could not load the driver."

     

    Peter...

     

     

  10. I wonder... I'm interested to see what people come up with..  When I was dabbling with planetary I used to autoguide on the planet  through a frac while imaging through the SCT at high(ish) FR's...

    I'm having doubts about a full disc timelapse of the whole event myself as well especially if the video is downscaled will there really be much to see.....

    I had thought about tweaking the alignment  the night before and hoping...

    For the last eclipse I was setup on the tripod in the factory carpark so the alignment wasn't that good and I had to make a few corrections - especially when people insisted on  holding onto the EP in the Solar scope that was mounted side by side with the WL setup...

    I am hoping that Mercury will be passing  some features in Ha that I can capture with the LOHA and 618... so was going to leave some extra space on the WL image to allow for the full disc image moving around  s while the EQ'6 is  tracking "mercury"...

    Peter...

     

     

     

  11. The method I suggested is as per the instructions provided with the film...

    I tend not to have any other convenient light source with me when I am out in the field in daylight with the scopes...

    As with all things Solar .. If in doubt don't...

    http://astrosolar.com/en/download/how-to-handle-baader-astrosolar-with-safety-instructions/

    And for those who don't follow the link to the PDF...

    The relevant section on "testing"

    5. Before each solar session carefully inspect your AstroSolarTM filter for mechanical dam ages, broad scratches,

    streaks, extensive whipe marks and other quality degrading influences. Small pinholes do not degrade the eye safety

    or image sharpness of AstroSolarTM !

    Hold the filter at arms length towards the daylight sun to detect dangerous defects. S m all pinholes may become

    visible but will not be dangerous, because the light going through w ill be dispersed across a wide area like in a

    camera obscura. This scattered light how ever w ill cast a hue of lightto slightly overlay the solar image information

    and reduce image contrast somewhat.

    For highest photographic perform ace and when using large telescope apertures at high magnification it is therefore

    advisable to blacken outthese pinholes. Use thick black laquer (black paint) and directly apply the paint onto the

    inner (telescope) side of AstroSolarTM with a very thin, sharp brush to just cover the size of the pinhole while holding

    the filter towards the sun.

    Peter...

     

  12. I always carry out an initial visual inspection for damage if it looks OK I then  look  through the filter at arms length passing the unmagnified solar disc image across the full surface  of the disc looking for any changes in brightness or break through

    I had a hailstone put a dent in the front of the Kendrik Solar film Filter  for the 600/f4 on Saturday :(  There's no difference in intensity but...

    Peter...

     

     

    • Like 1
  13. Definitely get hold of a copy of MEPC by Steve Richards (Steppenwolf on here and the "Scope Doctor" in the Sky at Night Magazine) .. before you spend money on anything else...

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html

    While I haven't been that active for the last few years I used to try and drag as much as I could out of modified DSLR cameras...

    I  also came for a traditional Photography background  and so   I naturally assumed that Astrophotography would be "easy"...

    Steve's book wasn't around at the time and I made some seriously bad kit decisions...

    Peter...

     

     

    • Like 1
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