michael8554
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Posts posted by michael8554
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Take a number of short exposures with your full assembly : Canon 450D + WO 'Copper' T-adapter + 2mm spacer + Baader MPCC + Baader twist lock clamp.
Taking out and replacing each time with no rotation.
If results aren't consistent then look for a screwed connection instead of the twist-lock.
Has your Canon been astro modded, did the sensor get returned with the sensor tilt correctly shimmed ?
Michael
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Hi Russell
1. Some Astro mods talk of removing the "IR Filter", which is misleading.
2. An "IR converted" Canon will not show daytime images with "colours are very much what they should be"
If it's only had "a standard rear filter removed", that will be a Ha Mod,
Possibly a Full Spectrum Mod if both rear filters have been removed.
Which allows
IRUV, Visual, and IR bands to be recorded.3. An IR Conversion will have had both standard filters removed, and an IR Pass Filter installed.
Which should only pass IR, none of the visual spectrum.
Giving images with as you say "white trees".
4. An external IR Pass Filter on a Full Spectrum Modded camera would allow just the IR to reach the sensor.
If that's what you're desiring.
Michael
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Silicone sealant used as a brace ?
An image would help.
A working AudioStar for 25 bucks is a steal.
Michael
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Silicone sealant used as a brace ?
Image would help.
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You'll have to take the motor/worm assembly off the mount and investigate.
Mchael
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What I'm suggesting is don't have NINA and Play connected at the same time .
If these are ASCOM you could try connecting both through the ASCOM POTH virtual hub.
Michael
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Is the Senso trying to connect to Play and NINA at the same time ?
Michael
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"close up lunar imaging."
Your image suggests you only want to image part of the moon, not all of the moon.
If you prefer not to Mosaic then the usual Celestron/Meade/Antares etc 0.63 Reducer would be in your range of desired FOV.
Giving 851mm Focal length with 105mm Backspacing from the Reducer.
Michael
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"If there is no replacement glass/shimmed stack, that's a full spectrum mod, right? "
No, that does not make it a Full Spectrum mod, those are just focus-compensation methods.
You should read up on astro mods and what is removed and added in the various types.
For an Ha only mod the #LPF-2 filter is removed, leaving the #LPF-1 to filter UV/IR.
The filter removal leaves the Autofocusing incorrect and the lens unable to infinity focus.
To correct this, a replacement glass, or adjustment of the spring-loaded sensor (the models after the 450D don't have shims), corrects the autofocus, but leaves the eyelevel finder wrong, as that light path hasn't been corrected.
Focus with Liveview will be correct.
Michael
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"thought I have a canon 2000d."
Heard of a 2000D, never heard of a 2000d.
Does your camera look like this ?
#
Michael
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"huge safety issues if any plastic lens was used "
Maybe not, the sun isn't spot-focused on any of the elements ?
"especially if a filter wasn't in place first."
After an eclipse, camera hire companies get a lot returned with holes burned into the shutter or sensor ............ :-<
Michael
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If you've checked the Audiostar cable and the sockets, then sounds like there's damaged power components inside the AudioStar.
Post on Cloudy Nights.
Michael
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Hi Dave
Have you applied all the suggestions in your other posts ?
Re the Audiostar, "the lights come on".
Do you mean the power light on the mount comes on ?
Or the buttons illuminate, but no display ?
You should view the Meade section of the US "Cloudy Nights" forum, where the Meade world experts lurk.
Eg:
Michael
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1. There are two MPCC spacings, depending on whether you are using M42 or M48 fittings:
2. As I always say in these circumstances, you shouldn't compare stacks of long exposures, which may contain stacking and guiding artefacts.
Look at one fast exposure, stretched if necessary.
3. The second exposure looks worse, could be Tilt or guiding.
Michael
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PHD2 can measure Dec Backlash, akin to the hysteresis you're trying to adjust.
Failing that take before dither and after dither images.
Layer them on an image editing prog and measure the shift in pixels.
Michael
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PHD2 can usually be left to chose the best star.
But maybe your star thresholds are incorrectly set.
Michael
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Hi Dave
1. Is the replacement battery pack correctly wired, Pos and Neg volts ?
2, Are you using 1.5V alkaline batteries, not 1.2V rechargeables that won't add up to 12V ?
3. There's a socket on the mount for an external 12V supply.
This has a make/break contact inside that breaks the 12V from the batteries when the plug is inserted.
Which prevents the external 12V "charging" the alkalines, which is a Bad Idea.
This contact sometimes fails to return to battery mode, preventing the mount powering up.
Michael
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The PHD2 developers only consider guidescope/guidecam arcsecs/pixel.
Up to about 3 (which your suggestions are in) is okay, it gets worse as you get larger, the 6.5 with those tiny guidescopes is pushing it.
So you can afford to Bin both those cameras to improve star capture.
Michael
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I see very slight star elongation here and there, but not consistent.
You can't make these sort of judgements on a stacked image.
Look at one short stretched exposure, to eliminate guiding and stacking artefacts.
Michael
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The zoom lenses that budget DSLRs kits come with usually have plastic lenses, for cost reasons.
"I wonder how phone lenses really work at all, as they are so small their resolution is surely severely impacted?"
Resolution is based on the number of pixels in the sensor.
A 12Mp sensor with 1um pixels is tiny.
All you need then is a lens diameter large enough to fully illuminate the sensor.
So "so small" is not a resolution problem.
Michael
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Hi Christopher
"Tired of shopping"
Some SGL members spend more time shopping than imaging............. 😆
An EdgeHD with Hyperstar becomes f/2.
Whereas a SCT is f/10, or f/6.3 with a reducer.
So very different Fields of View.
The Edge for large nebulae, the SCT for small galaxies or planetary imaging.
Which do you need ?
As Elp said about buy/sell, to deter people not contributing to the forum.
Michael
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Stuck between 2 scopes.
A focuser in the kidneys can be quite painful............ 😆
Michael
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The Leica L Flange distance is 20mm.
And the ASI 585MC Flange Distance is 10.5mm.
So only room for 9.5mm of adapters and spacers.
You want a "Leica L Lens to Canon EF Adapter"
if such a thing exists.
Then a M42 x 1 (EF) to M42 x 0.75 (T2) Adapter.
Then enough T2 extension to get that 20mm Flange distance.
Or "Leica L Lens to T2 Adapter" plus T2 spacers
Michael
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"It's also recommended to remove current marker spot, but I think it's etched and might be impossible to do."
Any reason to doubt that one is in the correct position ?
Just stick the new one on top.
Michael
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DSLR Conversion
in Getting Started With Imaging
Posted
Most image software will offer to apply the Custom WB when loading the Raw.
Michael