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michael8554

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Posts posted by michael8554

  1. Hi Phil

    I'm not familiar with that scope.

    So I'm guessing you're using the Barlow to extend the image onto the DSLR sensor ?

    As Ouroboros suggests, can you remove parts of the focuser to allow the DSR to screw directly onto the focuser, and get infinity focus ?

    Otherwise, the 1.5X Barlow may not extend the image as far as the 2X, you'll have to hope.

    Michael

  2. There comes a point where the usual Stacking software "runs out of range" so to speak, due to planetary rotation.

    The freeware program WinJupos "derotates", correcting for planetary rotation,  allowing you to extend your imaging time by a factor of three or four.

    Michael

    • Like 1
  3. 1. The telescope forms an image beyond the rear of the tube.

    That position is varied by the focuser.

    The lenses/eyepieces give different "magnification" depending on their focal length, usually engraved on the eyepiece.

    For example, a 10mm eyepiece will "magnify" more than a 25mm eyepiece.

    "Tried connecting my very old DSLR (Canon eos 600D), but capture very faint objects and i noticed there was focus issue"

    Your 600D is an excellent camera to start with, and is often used with these telescopes.

    You have to attach it with only enough adapters to allow the sensor to be positioned within the range of focus that the telescope provides.

    And faint objects require long exposures, minutes not seconds.

    With your Jupiter shot you got to focus in the end.

    You will now appreciate that the telescope focuser has a very large range of adjustment, many many turns of the knob.

    The image is over-exposed, so reduce the exposure.

    Switch to the Manual setting and adjust the shutter speed to a faster setting.

    2. The ASI 183MC Pro is versatile, so can be used for Planetary and Deep Sky DSO imaging.

    But its small pixels 2.4um are not a good match to the telescope for DSO imaging.

    Michael

     

    • Like 1
  4. Lat and Long can be presented as Decimal, and as Degrees-Mins-Secs.

    Peter has worked out the Degrees-Mins-Secs for you.

    To convert the Latitude, take the .6016 part pf 52.6016 and multiply by 60 to change to minutes - that's 36.096 mins.

    Multiply the .096 part of that by 60 to get the secs - that's 5.76 secs.

    So your Latitude is 52deg 36min 5.76 secs.

    Do the same for Longitude.

    But looks like 52 36N is close enough for synscan.

    So a quick approximation seems to be good enough, 60 x 0.6 = 36.

    Michael

     

    • Like 1
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  5. Depends on the OTA.

    Over about 1000mm Focal Length an Off Axis Guiding system is recommended, with a sensitive mono guide cam.

    Below that focal length, a guidescope/guidecam combination that has a pixel scale of no larger than about 6arcsec/pixel,

    Up to 3arcsec/pixel is best, according to the PHD2 developers.

    With a mounting that does not include soft-tipped screws to hold the guidescope, which will lead to Differential Flexture and so elongated stars.

    Michael

  6. Hi Sedna

    1) If you did a Ha Mod, by removing only the LPF-2 filter, the LPF-1 filter remains and blocks unwanted IR.

    So you don't need an external UV/IR filter, which in any case won't give you a daytime spectral response.

    You can get a good Ha response AND a good daytime response by installing a Baader filter in the LPF-2 position - see vliav's graph.

    Or get a pretty-close to correct spectral response by using a Custom White Balance.

     

    2) If you did a Full Spectrum Mod, by removing both LPF filters, you will need at least an IR/UV filter, to prevent bloated stars in the case of lens or refractor use.

    But again, an UV/IR filter will not fix the daytime spectral response.

    Michael

     

  7. Hi Nikolai

    Way back before budget astro cams were available, it was popular to modify a particular Philips webcam that happened to have a CCD imaging chip.

    That enabled the long exposures that imaging dim DS Objects requires.

    Most current webcams will only expose up to about 1 second, so are best used for Planetary imaging.

    As bosun suggests, record video files that can be Stacked in Autostakkert.

    You will need a long focal length to "magnify" the tiny target that is a planet.

    Either by a long focal length telescope, or afocal imaging using an eyepiece to magnify the image from the telescope.

    Michael

     

    • Like 2
  8. Hi Nick

    I would try this:

    Place the top of the moveable part of the wedge parallel to the base of the wedge.

    If the zero on the scale is next to the pointer then the scale is correct.

    So for Devon set to 50.

    But you can easily check using Polaris, that should be close enough to allow a full PA if you need to.

    Michael

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