haitch

You can easily get a Ef-m to Ef adaptor that lets you use the full range of accessories that the DSLRs use.

I don't know all the M models but my M50 does as well as using wifi with the Canon utilities on Pc or Canon or Cascable app on my iPhone/iPad… Cascable is great for being able to program sequences.

Battery life on the M models isn't great but I use a USB dummy battery witha 20Ah USB phone charger pack with 2 outlets that powers the camera and dew heater for the lens (I mostly use mine for widefield on an Astrotrac)  

On 04/04/2020 at 18:39, RippyTheGator said:

Hey all,

I am wanting to get into astrophotography and am looking to start my jump with a DSLR camera. I have had a scope for a few years and have really enjoyed it (Orion Starmax 127 mm maksutov-cassegrain) but would like to start out with a DSLR before experimenting with my scope. I am looking for a cheaper Canon (nothing more than 500$) that would be good for a beginner, I am looking around on Facebook Marketplace, Ebay, Craigslist etc. I have found several used Canons on FB marketplace that are relatively cheap but would like to know what is best for astrophotography. What specs should I be most concerned about? 

For example, I can get a Canon t5i for ~400$ with the stock lens and adapters, or a Canon t7 for around same price. From Astrobackyards website his first Camera he used was a 450D, I can get one of those for 150$. Is this camera too outdated? This price would allow me to get a proper tracking mount for the camera much quicker. 

Many websites, including this one, recommends the t7i but that is 700$ brand new, is the difference for a beginner out weigh the price point? 

Any recommendations and insights would be much appreciated! 

Casey

Consider a mirrorless - smaller lighter and no mirror box to cause vibrations when it flips up. You also get more backfocus so you can adapt to more easily to other makers lenses (there are some old prime lenses out there with a good reputation for astrophotography). You can also get adaptors so they work with all the modern lenses for DSLRs. I've even 3D printed one for my canon M50 that incorporates a filter drawer...

9 minutes ago, SteveWolves said:

Does anybody remember the year at Lucksall when the Icelandic volcano grounded flights I feel there were clearer skies then.

Lol, I remember dropping everything and driving 1,500 miles to Mojacar in South East Spain to pick up my stranded wife and kids from the in-laws - incidentally all that time it was raining down there so I'm not sure the flights being grounded were the cause of clear skies.

(and I can pronounce Eyjafyallajokull)

On 29/03/2020 at 21:31, BLUEThumb said:

Hi everyone

Complete nubie   i havent even got anything accept a pair of binoculars,although after watching the ISS  come over our house ,with my wife the other night, and then having a look at some stars which  we found  out of this world  (pardon the pun) i/we are looking at getting a telescope,more than likely a skywatcher probably a  Dobsobium  skyliner 153mm,but not sure if its going to be  a second hand one or new one. (Any Help Will Be Appreciated)

I am pretty quiet on the forums,as i like to sit on the sidelines and read and learn ,with the occasional post, but will look forward to conversing when something presents itself,along with asking for help if and WHEN needed.

I am now semi retired,but thinking of retiring for good ,so got time on my hands.

Thanks

        Tony

 

 

 

 

Hi from up the road in Brownhills. Do you go to Walsall Astronomy Society?

8 hours ago, WicklowSkies76 said:

Yes thank you :). I was wondering why my GoTo wasn't really working accurately after alignment. The SCT must have been sliding out of position regularly. Imaging with an 11" SCT is indeed a challenge. I can't wait until I move to a widefield refractor imaging setup. I expect it will be far easier.

🙀

On 06/03/2020 at 14:51, gilesco said:

I'm at 50.42 latitude, so already exhausted the going south within the UK idea!!

Lol you're just spoilt 😜

I go to the Massif Central in France as much because of it's low population and therefore low light pollution as darker nights or warmth.

Even going to the south coast of England will give you darker nights

A bigger knob? Who wouldn’t? 😳

2 hours ago, cotterless45 said:

Take note !

Actually I mostly do 1 to 3

2 hours ago, TonyGut said:

Yes I was 

Then none of the comments about mirror movement during focusing apply. You can get movement of the mirror as it tracks across the sky (mirror flop) but not of the mirror as you focus (mirror shift) with a Crayford.

Has your corrector ever been removed? If it has and it has been put back at the wrong rotation it can affect your ability to collimate. Another issue if the corrector has been removed is if the spacers around its edge don't get put back perfectly. I'm not sure the latter makes much difference in normal use but I know it does with a Hyperstar.

Bob's knob themselves can cause issues as you'll never tighten the thumbscrews sufficiently to really hold collimation. If you really want to lock down collimation replace the bolts with hex head bolts and use an allen key to make sure they are good and tight.

25 minutes ago, TonyGut said:

Stu I did fail to mention that I do have a separate dual speed focuser attached to the rear of the scope.

Were you focusing with the Crayford at the time?

1 minute ago, vlaiv said:

How about a good book then? Something like this:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/turn-left-at-orion-book.html

Lol beat me

If they're new to astronomy they might want a book - Turn Left At Orion is a good on to get started. Some eyepiece sets come with boxes but they tend to vary in dimension so most people go for a case with pick and pluck foam something like this https://www.cases-and-enclosures.co.uk/aluminium-flight-case-400x240x125mm should be big enough to fit all the little accessories you end up collecting.

Baader Optical Wonder https://www.firstlightoptics.com/astronomy-optics-cleaning-protection/baader-optical-wonder-set-cleaning-fluid-and-cloth.html is well thought of for cleaning. Is it a lens or mirror telescope? (Never use any fluid or cloth on a mirror)

It it only has the eyepieces that come with it he may want to upgrade at some point but I'd wait and see where his interest lies (High magnification planetary views or wide low mag deep sky)

HTH

23 minutes ago, Domcia said:

That's my problem. What details do I need to give you that you can recommend me some solar filter?

The diameter of the front opening to be able to choose from this list - Baader film is the best stuff I have come across.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/astrozap-baader-solar-filter.html

How much is your budget? Accessories range from a few £ up to over £1,000!

If you do plump for a solar filter make sure it's an approved one that fits the front of the scope and is designed to fit that particular scope.

So basically an untoothed belt? Or... a reversed toothed belt using its smooth side?

6 hours ago, Telescope40 said:

Any suggestions of where these type of handles can be sourced. 
Scopes look spot on @FLO, Btw 

John 

Apparently you can get one if you buy a StellaMira scope from FLO... I don't imagine they'll want to devalue the brand by making them too readily available.

I wondered what I'd been saving up for and now I know. Thanks for informing me. 😋

Oh wow, I thought PSP was long dead. I think I did 3 or 4 of the Autumn one back in the day (and got on interviewed on S@N when they visited). Same location isn't it?

I'd love to come but I'm away at a conference all week that week and I think I'd be in trouble with the missus if I was away for the weekend too.

4 hours ago, Laurin Dave said:

Excellent..  but probably worth pointing out that this looks like it will only fit the Canon version of the lens.  I got a similar one from Astrojolo and it doesn't fit my Nikon version.  

Dave

As they make one lens that fits various cameras by attaching different bayonets surely it fits theme all?

What I want to know is does it fit all Samyang lenses including the mirrorless ones? (Could have some fun with my 12mm f2.0)

On 06/01/2020 at 14:01, Alfian said:

I've visited Bacup a good many times and a couple of friends are from the town. In all the times in or around there I have to say the people I met were mostly humanoid. 

Could you put that as a %? Like 80% humanoid? Any idea what their other 20% is made up of? 😝

1 hour ago, Andy274 said:

Making your own is awesome

Belt drive is more versatile for homebrew too as you have more options for gearing and I've seen the direct couplers get damaged if the alignment is off

2 minutes ago, JamesF said:

Very helpful to know what belt it is.  I shall be motorising mine using Robert Brown's design:

https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/

once I finish building my dew controllers (also based on a design of his).

James

That's the code I use for mine - works a treat

14 minutes ago, Andy274 said:

Making your own is awesome

& cheap 😉

Tenner for a motor, a quid for the belt £20 for the custom pulley and a few pence worth of plastic assuming you've already for a 3D printer (if not why not!?!?!?)

Almost forgot the Arduino for computer control - still cheap

That's excellent - my C11 

1 hour ago, Adreneline said:

Hi.

The motor itself is the Sykwatcher motor. The focus unit is the Baader and is unmodified. I purchased a toothed pully from Motionco along with a suitable belt. As it turns out the teeth on the Baader unit are an exact match for the toothed belt. The motor mount is custom 3D printed to fit the Baader and allow me to mount the motor. The whole thing works a treat with the HitecAstro software combined with Sharpcap. I am sure the problems with SGPro are all down to me but I am happy with the semi-auto procedure I use and I certainly waste less imaging time.

HTH - let me know if you need anymore details.

Adrian

That's excellent, thanks. it was the belt type I was after (for my Diamond Steeltrack) and that's in your link.

I'll be 3D printing my bracket too (as I did for the C11)

Cheers

Paul