haitch

Looks like 5 to me but hard to be sure. What’s it off?

in the absence of anything definitive I’d try it at 0.75.

have you got either T2 or M48 thread you could put up against it to see if it meshes? They’re both 0.75

4 minutes ago, silentrunning said:

Currently analysing the thread I need to duplicate...

If that M48? If so I'm fairly sure the pitch is 0.75 off the top of my head

Just now, silentrunning said:

Brilliant, something to aspire to. Thanks.

If any of the STLs for those would be useful to you let me know and I'll ping them across.

The lens adaptor is in PETG which is the cause of it looking a bit hairy. I've just come out of my PETG phase and moved on to ABS which I'm finding less frustrating though still more tricky than PLA. The nastiest stuff to try and print is TPE (flexible) - I've been pulling what hair I've got left out over that.

I can quite easily print t threads and M48 threads on my Ender 3 - I've managed to make an adaptor to fit my Hypercam 269c onto 6.5mm Ef-m lens with the metal camera attachment bit removed (only way to get the backfocus), a baader ufc compatible filter drawer threaded for 2" filters and even Ef to Ef-m adaptor with a built in filter drawer so I can use my STC dual band filter with my 20-200 f2.8L on my Canon M50. 

(I use Tinkercad btw)

Some of it's brethren... http://ensoptical.co.uk/circle-t

If you look at the 25mm Ortho on there it's got the stamp on the barrel like yours but the 9mm they've got has a sticker on the barrel - I think that's just down to when it was produced

Looks like a Circle T - if that's a T in a circle on the chrome barrel... and yes, it's an Orthoscopic

On 30/05/2020 at 06:07, ALZASCOPE said:

Hi again small world i lived all my childhood in Brownhills gt charles st to be exact 

14" thats a beast hope to talk again soon

I've got a friend in Burntwood with a 20" 😮

7 hours ago, mh6081 said:

Cheers Alan, I am only in Wimblebury, yes, just being able to go to a shop and spend an hour picking their brains is worth it and getting a feel for the equipment. I don't know about you, but you feel that you are asking the same SFQ's as a newbie that have been asked a 1000 times on forums and you then spend ages trying to research the subject matter and then find yourself being dragged off onto something completely not what you were looking for and by the time you have realised you ask yourself 'how did I get here and what was I looking for originally' or is that age?? 🤣 All the best

Cycle past your way quite frequently then. Quite a strong local astro community. There's Wolverhampton. Walsall and Rosliston Astro Societies all local once lock down is over and we can meet up again. I'm up the road in Brownhills. Light pollution has got pretty bad here over the years so I'm starting to get more into imaging but I still drag the 14" dob out once in a while.

On 16/05/2020 at 02:10, AntHart said:

Not sure I could live with that colour combo!lol 😯

It makes me think "Fisher Price... My First Imaging Rig" 🤣

Pleased with my Ender 3 too - PLA works out of the box and, as I keep it in one place, bed levelling isn't an issue. Other materials can be hard work - PETG can be a bit annoying if it has a large base due to warping and if you don't get the temp right stringing is annoying but TPE (and I imagine any flexible) is the hardest thing I've come across to try to print with so far.

1 minute ago, Mognet said:

It's a CR-10S, and that came from Technology Outlet too

You should be ok with after sales then. How are you finding that model (aside from the MoBo problem)?

Mognet, which model? Where did you buy it from out of interest?

I got my Ender 3 from Technology Outlet and when the extruder drive arm broke they sent me a whole new assembly without quibble.

3 hours ago, Robindonne said:

Yes thx.  It passed in some review.  Some advising to not go that way because of more heat?? Didnt find any proof it causes heat more than a battery, the opposite seems true. And less weight. But on the other hand more cables😬.  But def going to try one

Definitely less heat as batteries generate heat in use so moving it outside the camera will reduce heat inside the camera body. Also when I'm doing widefield I use a 20Ah phone charger pack (I've found Anker ones reliable - all our family use that brand) with 2 power outs which will power the camera and lens dew heater all night. I then use a 10Ah 12v Tracer battery for my Astrotrac. So yeah... a few cables.

It may have already been picked up but you are using a DSLR use an external battery, such as a dummy battery that will run off a usb power pack, to take one source of heat noise out of the camera.

57 minutes ago, Shimrod said:

I think you might want to change your approach to choosing your equipment. I am quite new at AP, although I have been in and out of astronomy over a number of years. There are plenty of people on here who will tell you that starting AP on an 8" SCT is a very steep learning curve (and as the owner of an 8" EdgeHD I am not going to argue! -  I have also bought 80mm refractor which I am finding much easier to image with). I am also using a Canon DLSR as I own one at the moment - if you are solely getting the camera for AP purposes, you would be better getting a dedicated camera from day one - the only exception I can think is if you cannot connect a camera to a laptop while using your scope. You also need to think about what you want to image - the 80mm gives a lot more flexibility for DSO than the 8" EdgeHD.

Yeah just noticed the gear - 2m f/l (or even with a reducer) on a fully loaded Eq5 is more than pushing it unless you go down the hyperstar route.

7 minutes ago, Robindonne said:

Oh great indeed.  So this way you have a 10 second pause between the images? And are you free to choose the length? Although the asiair will control my future dslr, for the un-asiaired moments this is also very good. So you dont need the seperate remote shutter control? Are you able to set the amount of images?

That's it - you can choose the exposure length and the interval to the second.

Yes - you can set number of images or let irt run indefinitely (so long as you have the power to keep going. You can also have a delay before first shot and start the sequence when you leave menu or on half shutter press or full shutter.

For anyone still in any doubt on the ML front, my 600D set for intervalometer timing of 3 minutes 10 secs with an exposure length of 3 minutes...

Look up Magic Lantern firmware for Canon DSLRs it has an intervalometer built in as well as some other neat functions such as increasing gain of the liveview screen 

Just now, haitch said:

Hi DT8691 (is there something less formal I can call you?) 

Sorry - just clocked it... Tony 

12 minutes ago, merlin100 said:

Lazarus thread alert!🤣  Joking aside, have you thought of starting a new thread on this subject?🤔

Lol - I just got a notification of a post on this thread.

Hi DT8691 (is there something less formal I can call you?) That (if you didn't know is a refractor. Depending on the diameter of the lens (it usually has it one side too) it is either a 120 or 150 which, apart from the colour schemes are near identical scopes to the Skywatcher Evostar 120 & 150 https://www.firstlightoptics.com/evostar/skywatcher-evostar-150-ota.html  https://www.firstlightoptics.com/evostar/skywatcher-evostar-120-ota.html

What bits do you need?

Actually, easy enough to check - does that spindle turn at the same rate as the knob at the other end?

5 minutes ago, DaveS said:

That's the other end of the spindle that has the pinion on it. Sorry but you're stuck with it unless you want to take a hacksaw to it (DON'T!).

Like he says, I think on that model the spindle runs all the way through. On some WO focusers I've seen the dual speed has a second smaller spindle that runs between some ball bearings in a planetary fashion but that looks different. You can probably take the rest of the knob off but I don't think the spindle is going anywhere.

1 minute ago, michael8554 said:

Thanks haitch, you should go into production with your 3D printed adapter! 

Michael 

Lol - once I'm totally 100% happy with it I shall probably publish the files so anyone can print it.

The drawers are compatible with the Baader UFC system but somewhat cheaper at a few pence worth of plastic than the thirty odd quid a drawer (which is why I initially designed my drawer). I have the Baader filter drawer for my C11 & Hyperstar so this means I can have one set of filters and use them on everything and mine even have the holes to fit the little magnets that keep them in place.

Sorry you mentioned the backfocus - I 3d printed my own adaptor with the drawer built in

and you can get an ef-m to Ef adaptor with a reducer built in (search for Viltrox speed booster) - not had chance to use that for astro yet but the terrestrial shots I've took seem promising