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Superb Rodd, Love the ripples running through pretty much the whole FoV. 👍

Ordered an ASI 585 MC PM yesterday and I have courier delivering AM today! Magic.

I'd like to join others in this sad news to hit our forum

Thanks both. I just don't like the Kensington show anymore. I used to go every year but it really is the wrong venue to be able to meaningfully look at kit or talk to the vendors about their wares.

A reprocess of some older subs captured on an ASI 533 MC Pro, Idas NBZ filter and RASA 8 scope. There are 7x 300s subs of Sh2-273 both versions processed in PI, the reprocessed version has also had both RC's BlurXT and StarXT applied at the linear stage and then each 'half' processed for colour etc separately before being combined with pixelmath as a straight 1+1 I've added the starless half of the combination in the images below. Cheers Thanks for looking Original version New combined starless+stars version Starless version

Hi, Anyone know if there is an IAS show at Warwick this year and what the dates are? Cheers

This was the original processing Carole

A reprocess of LDN1235 (the Shark). Circa 45 subs ranging between 300s and 600s processed in PI to linear phase then BlurETraction applied followed by StarEXtraction. Star layer and shark layers then processed separately and recombined with pixelmath. I hope you don't mind the reprocessing...?

First time for me using this processing technique. Again because the weather is (not nice) today it's given me some time to play. The subs are old data grabbed mid 2022 ? with my ASI533MC pro. Comprising 5x 300s 2x 600s. These have been processed in PI and whilst still at the linear stage BlurXTerminator was applied to clean-up the stars and neb to some extent. Then StarEXterminator used to split the stars from the nebula. Processing then for each 'half' was done in the usual way for me with luminance masks and the two then combined with pixelmath as a straight combination. These were with the trial versions of (sorry bank manager but I feel a purchase coming on). As a first step in what i'll call split processing, although more work, the work was easier because I didn't have to compromise as much. Wow. Thanks for looking.

Weather here is rotten so I've gone back into some old subs of M51 taken in April 2022. 8x 300s subs. ASI533 camera on a TS RC8, a Baader UV/IR cut filter used. Mount iOptron CEM 60 (non EC). Processing used PI only. With RC's BlurExterminator. Processing used a luminance mask to switch between subject and background to help with contrast and colour. Desaturate and darken the background, satruration applied to subject. Thanks for looking.

Yes. I'll check for drivers firware issues too. Thanks.

The USB 3 cable is direct camera to laptop the usb 2 is via the mounts hub to a different laptop port The info button in ASI Studio shows the sensor as RGGB

Hi All, Can I get some comments please. I've just purchased an ASI 585 MC (from a respected dealer in the UK) and got to use it last night through high cloud but I had a problem in that the camera would not download via a USB 3.0 cable. I tried two other USB 3.0 cables with the same no show results. It did download however when I swapped the guide cam (USB 2.0) and 585 cables round? I tried with Astroart 8, Sharpcap pro 4 and ASI Studio none of which would download a capture via USB 3 but would via USB 2 This morning I've tried processing the few frames I did manage to capture last night. But here I encountered another strange (to me) problem. I use PI and usually debayer with my ASI MC cameras as RGGB combined channels. Doing that with these frames resulted in strange colourings. I then debayered as BGGR and these processed quite normally. Any ideas? Could the cabling issue cause the debayering anomaly? Comments welcome BGGR debayer RGGB debayer

I blame the 'smidges' they kept moving things!

I have an Altair Starwave Ascent 102 ED and I've just bought an ASI585 MC camera so I've been playing, pointed them out through a rain spotted window (double glazed) at a chimney pot circa 110 - 120 metres distant. First I just wanted to make sure the camera worked and get an idea of the FoV. After watching a few pigeons I thought I'd try putting a 0.67x reducer to again get an idea of the field of view. The reducer spacing from the camera side of the reducer to the front face of the camera is 90mm (± a smidge). I then repeated with the reducer now 24mm (± another smidge) from the 585's front face. Images were taken with and without the reducer and played with in PS to match sizes and black boarders applied to show the extent of each image (no cropping). Sorry about the rotations between images but I think it shows that final scales are dependent on reducer spacings... No smidges were hurt during the course of this testing 🙂.

Just seen this in SGL's classifieds: Also this on UKABS - sure you can haggle them down a touch... https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=194307

I take it you just looked at the poorer review and ignored the good ones. Pretty much all new scopes will require some adjustments. They're built to a price so final adjustments may only be mediocre at best. Take note of Mandy's reply a s/h 150 or 200mm with stock eyepieces will be much better than a 100mm with slightly better eyepieces.

Hi Alan, Couldn't find a 70mm frac anywhere so went for the next one up. Bit more expensive but it was in stock. While they can sell scopes rather than just the bits of plastic they will. Also there's mugs like me who will buy a scope just for the plastic bits...

Personaly I'd forget the accessories to start with go for SW 130 https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-heritage-130p-flextube.html and a £4 collimation cap (still under your budget). Don't forget the s/h market you can probably pick up a 150 sized dob within your budget. Then add eyepieces etc later when you have a better idea about what you NEED.

I've just added a StarSense unit from a donor scope to my 12 inch f4 Dobsonian. I tried to keep this mod as simple as possible knowing that the more bits that are added to more likely things will shift in use. So. I had in my box of bits a riser/mounting block for a pair of guidescope rings having fitted the original rings directly to a dovetail bar. (I digress). All that I've done is to drill and tap 2x 3mm holes in the end of the riser block and coresponding 3mm holes through the StarSense plastic mounting bracket thus allowing me to fit the SS directly into the dobs finderscope mounting block ans secure with the side screws as you would with a finder scope. Hopefully the photos will mean more than my description...