TiffsAndAstro

it can't be as easy as just setting it to flip. which i didn't obviously will try that next. also i have some sort of mental block about meridian flips. i sort of see when they're happening but i can't picture in my head why it can't just carry on tracking. i think its related to the 'block' so scope can't rotate past + - 90 degress? i guess having a counter weight above camera might be bad its hard to mentally picture. its possible im over thinking it as for HFR, i have no idea how it works and have struggled to google a video. i assumed it was for autofocus but clearly not. if you have a link or anything like that it would be much appreciated. i will trawl Cuiv's back collection and be very disapointed if its not covered. yeah multi star auto guiding sounds cooler than not, so ill give that a go to. got a bahtinov mask on the way for my guidescope but not really sure its nessecery. Watching a good video on hfr by chrizzleys observable universe. I need hfr

bit late to the party, sorry. also new to siril and basically use the pre provided scripts. how would i try this out via the scripts? copy an existing one, rename it and replace the bit of the script that shows my master bias location as =2048 rather than an actual location?

ty for your kind words. i have plenty downtime to watch youtube videos and ask dumb questions on here i was pretty much doing what you suggest with flats before i used nina. and the previous (and only) time i used nina flat wizzard it seemed great. i need to pay more attention to the images from my camera whether its taking flats lights or whatever. also before processing. i think i have autoguiding going well enough. and my focus have improved lots, though maybe still room for improvement. im actually still very happy about not even using my polar scope no more emission nebulas before i get a osc though. besides, its galaxy season and pinwheel looks to frame reasonably big in stellarium. meridian flip management is my next problem i think. my mount flipped out last night on markarian's chain when (i think) it got to the meridian. also maybe a new user profile (or whatever the correct term) in phd2 see if it will then show the x/y thing mentioned above. without that im dubious if my guiding is as good as stated.

ty so much will have a read now. while i intend to get a proper osc camera, i still like the idea of having a dslr i can use in a very portable battery powered setup so anything that would improve my 600d is welcome

I have no idea how or what I'd even subtract 2048 from. Any idea what terms I can Google for info?

ty for this. i changed the value in nina to 7 pixels as this is the value i got from the online tool. this then effects how much guidescope dithers. i just wanted to get the correct value, didn't really study the reasoning using just my very overexposed flats seems to have removed the walking noise. I've post a quick post process of rosette nebula and for about 46minutes, i think its ok. it at least shows my guiding/dithering seems ok. rosette is not a great target to remove background/gradients i think. espectially with so little integration time.

also trying some variants on stacking, i noticed half my flats look black, half white and one grey one. i did them via nina's flat wizard and it worked really well one other time i used the wizard. could this be caused by crap flats? im running a few more test stacks with/without flats etc ***** its crap flats. no idea how crap flats could introduce what looks like walking noise. will post a quick stack stretch for second opinion. i can see hints of rosette nebula, if i squint. but it could just be noise and/or because just 45mins total integration on a stock dslr.

I recalibrated ag between those two targets but the (looks like) walking noise looks very similar in both after drizzle stack in siril. This makes me think it could be either the amount of dither (I calculated it twice online to make sure) or how often, which seems to be based on guessing. Next clear skies my plan is one hour no dither, one hour 12 pixels see how the turn out. M106 because it's up and relatively big? Unless anyone can suggest another test? Or target.

I put a quick stack above. Stars shapes look ok and are least of my issues we Apologies if I sound snarky it's not intentional. I'm on mobile phone right now and old I'm genuinely grateful for all the help and suggestions from everyone. Even 900sl

Also, while my numbers seem to be good, and polar alignment was just a couple of seconds in both axis, my gear is cheap, so it's more than possible my gears overall error/accuracy is larger than these reported numbers. Not sure where that leaves me, but next clear skies I'll test guided but not dithered. Maybe the inaccuracy of my gear will provide enough 'natural' (lol) dithering by default.

I used the online tool and it said 7 pixel dither would be correct for Nina. I've not changed the multiplier in phd2 Rather than minimise walking noise I now seem to have it if you look at my second pic above, I took it after I changed scale to arc seconds in Nina. Correct cam and scope etc are listed if I look in phd2 Also dithered every three frames because I could only find examples of other people guessing. 'more' for shorter subs. I guess it's my baseline

7 pixels in nina i checked (i think) astro tools to calculate it. or some online calculator ill try 12 next clear skies, ty.

Cuiv the Lazy Geek, sorry. he does a lot of videos on nina. i guess this pattern i'm seeing after background extraction, is walking noise? i was dithering every 3 frames (by 7 pixels) so bit disapointed my 2 hours on markarian's chain also has similar noise. ill try not using drizzle on both later, but its a bit disapointing

I changed it from showing pixels in Nina rather than phd2 that should be ok. Apologies for the photos but I wanted a quick way to get an image on here. Doing a screen shot on that laptop then saving then transfering to my desktop is a pain. I think my image scale is 2 arc seconds per pixel. Stars didn't look tight in test shots, but I was possibly really zooming in. Stacking stuff now. If I did learn anything last night it's 1 resetting up guiding etc when changing target loses me imaging time. 2 image targets after meridian flip or Google auto meridian flip and implement. I skipped a cuiv the lg on meridian flip, guess I'll go watch it now Ty for looking and helping. Seems I have auto guiding at least working ok in theory.

My photo ,(above) obscures what I think is Nina's average error? So my error is 0.35 arc seconds?

just doing some darks and biased and i'd thought id ask my main imaging focus is a bit soft i think, but rosette nebula is too low now after maybe 90 mins. wondering if anyone can have a quick look notice any obvious auto guiding problems. it seemed to go well. i can't change the scale from pixels in phd2 its greyed out. 60 sec subs not really any wind decent ag focus, dither 7 pixels (used online calculater thing) every 3 frames next up smiley face for as long as i can stay awake

Vignette would be direction/orientation independent though?

I stretch an old white t-shirt over few shield and but that up to an old pixel c tablet. Seems to work well in Nina's flat wizard, especially when I lowered the brightest when Nina told me off. Is your panel really diffuse enough? It suggest edge lit LEDs from only one edge or a big difference between them. Defusing that light more might help reduce that gradient.

I'm a noob, so please take what I say very lightly, at least until pros have replied, but, while darks should be taken at same temperature as lights, take 5 or 10 now and use them to restack your lights what harm can it do? I reckon hot pixels will be there whatever the temp so recent darks might fix/reduce the problem.

If you're anything like me, a good eaf would be great, but it's a question priorities: what gets me the biggest improvement for the least cash

Hopefully this might replace the 17 weathers I concurrently use Henry ford was an anti Semite, union buster and nazi supporter

Anyone who has a goto mount, all I can say is get Nina and use it's 3 point polar alignment. All I do now is throw my tripod on the ground, vaguely pointing north and use Nina. I don't even take the caps off my polar scope. If I can do it after like an hour of practice, anyone can The bolt for alt adjustment has a bit of a dead zone, but I can get it under 10 atc seconds reliably in like 10 mins.

I got the one from flo website for £16. Look at the pic I linked, everything in my view had its own diffraction pattern even very faint stars

This is scientifically a better image. Because smilie face

I wasn't brave enough to risk April showers and went to bed