Gina

I thought about it but decided I didn't want any more complexity. I looked at raising my track but with the way the roof slopes it would still be a roll off top section rather than just roof since it would be below the warm room roof. And since I would still want the end flap, it would mean two flaps. The joint at the wall to roof junction could be lighter but the advantage doesn't justify the extra complication. Of course, I could change the roofs to slope sideways but I don't really want to change my design radically, yet again.

Looks like a marvellous observatory.

Beautiful job - something to be proud of

I noticed that your south facing flap folds inwards - just playing devil's advocate here: is there sufficient room so that when you fold it down it won't hit any part of the scope/mount?

I wondered that too, but it's not a very big flap. All the same, mine will be opening outwards.

I think it's very clever to run the roof along the top of the fold-down side. Usually there's a fixed running rail to take the roof that would get in the way of viewing. This has got me thinking

VERY nice, looks lovely

I have two batteries for my camera and a separate charger. One in the camera, the other in the charger, so I've always got a freshly charged battery (unless I do an enormous amount of photography). I also have two memory cards.

Glad to see your warm roof sheds the rain OK with such a small slope Good progress in spite of the conditions!

Dreadful weather here today too. Heavy rain and near gale force winds. Cleared up late afternoon a bit - to showers. My site is water-logged!!

Gina,

I've used 38mm x 63mm studwork for the apex and will be using the same for the pent roof. The pent roof will have framework spaced at 16" centres with noggins through to brace them. 12mm OSB sheeting forms the covering on the outside, and will be using 3.6mm ply for lining on the inside once insulation has been fitted.

Thanks

Been looking up slopes for pent/flat roofs. In their info sheet, Wickes quote 1 in 80 as minimum slope for a felt covered "flat" roof, with 1 in 40 recommended for new builds. So it looks like I could get away with a lot less than the 1 in 12 I've designed - say 1 in 20. I just wondered what slope you're using on your pent roof for your warm room.

What size timbers are you using for your roof frames, Malcolm? I think you said somewhere but I think you changed your design. I'm using OSB now though with a pent roof. I'm just wondering if 3x2 would be sufficient or whether to go for 4x2.

Ah but is that with real creosote or the artificial stuff we get nowadays?

I've used a drill for sanding small parts.

Gina, from memory I think they were M10 x 60mm, and as I'm going to line the inside walls wasn't bothered about washers or the heads biting into the wood. I pre-drilled the studs so as not to split them, and then used a socket wrench to wind them in. I used two per joint, backed up with 60mm dry lining screws every 8". If you are planning on buying any metalwork like threaded studs, nuts washers etc then screwfix is cheaper.

Yes, I'm looking at Screwfix for bolts although a local farm hardware shop has them only slightly more. Wickes OTOH are 3x the price or more.

That's good

A question going back a bit Malcolm... I think you said you used coach bolts to join your frames together - what size did you use? My studding will be 3x2 and I'm looking at M10x150 but wondering if M8s would be thick enough. It's not the strength but the possibility of the heads sinking into the wood. An alternative would be nuts and bolts with large washers.

Very colourful Malcolm Actually, I like it

That should be fine. The plastic shiplap on the porch is only fastened at 4ft intervals (ends and middle) and that's alright. I think the plastic is more flexible too. Pity Wickes only do it in white!

I used 12mm OSB board for the roof.

With a coat of cold bitumen adhesive before laying the felt.

Did you find any problem laying the felt? And what grade of felt did you use? I'm having second thoughts about using corrugated bitumen for my roofs. It needs a lot of slope - felt doesn't.

6mm ply does not have much rigidity and it might sag inbetween the braces plus the standard felt nails (around 12mm)will show through on the underside

Yes, you'd need plenty of purlins to stop sag and to nail into.

T&G shiplap is the way to go for the cladding.

Feather edge warps and gaps appear everywhere.

Just have a look at feather edge sheds at DIY stores.

I used some feather edge fencing to make a woodshed - dreadful stuff - all gaps now and the weather blows in! Did you consider plywood Wayne? Or was the improved appearance of shiplap the major factor?

For a bit more cost you could use UPVC shiplap (as long as you don't mind white). I used that on the end of my back porch. The side that faces the worst weather.

I still have plenty of floor varnish from doing the floor of the porch I added to the house. I used PTG flooring for that (2.3m x 4m). I would definitely use something to waterproof the flooring. You have a good point and I thank you for reminding me to do that BEFORE I lay the flooring.

Yes, I'm going for aluminium channel as well. I was going to use steel angle but stopping the wheels rolling off the unflanged side would make things more complicated. In fact the aluminium channel isn't that expensive compared with the overall cost.

We had quite a lot of rain overnight too. I don't know exactly how much as my rain gauge isn't working - I caught the cable in the rotavator

Coming on nicely Malcolm

Here a rough diagram of how I plan to seal mine. I'm going to use corrugated bitumen sheets with the edge turned over and fastened down to the woodwork. By having a high barge board on the warm room roof the roll off part can butt up against it. Not sure how good a seal that will give - might need a brush type draught excluder as well.

I find I'm too tired to take advantage of the clear nights after a hard day's "work". I have had a day off today having had a bit too much sun yesterday and tired myself out. Not as young as I was

Gina if your going to do this either make sure they are treated or sat on a DPC of somesort. The last thing you want is for your corner posts to rot!

I was thinking of fence posts. I can get them locally from Homebase and they guarantee them for 15 years of outside use. I shall be using DPC as well - between the concrete blocks and woodwork. In fact, Homebase are less than a pound dearer than Wickes and I can pick what I want. I looked at some a while back and they were pretty straight. 3" (75mm) square fence posts at the corners should make a good strong job.

To tie down the corner posts they can go below floor level and be attached to the end joists and the main structural beams.

Thanks