Gina

Took the sensor out of the other non-working camera and the glass is just as well fixed on. I even tried my hot air gun and heated the sensor until it was too hot to touch - probably not hot enough though.

It only took about two minutes to get mine off.

A photo of my sensor :-

Remove the glass. It pops off slowly with a small screwdriver.

Still seems to be better than it was with the Bayer matrix

It's 6mm nylon and does have quite a fair amount of stretch as expected with nylon rope. It should be quite capable of handling the tension though. I might change to a stronger type of rope if I have any problems. A bit of stretch is no bad thing with the rope being wound up onto an axle as the total length will vary slightly.

Fixed the pulley in place. Coach bolt through runner and into dividing wall frame will pulley threaded on and held in place with nuts. Here are a couple of pics showing the pulley with roof closed and open. The rope needs all my strength to pull the roof open - it's easier to push it but I guess that's to be expected

Very good

That's Plan B Or mabe Plan C Maybe I'll sleep on it

Got a hammer - got a sensor...

I believe the incantation for dcraw to output an un-bayered image (i.e. the actual values per pixel) is

dcraw -D -4 -j -t 0

This gets you a 16bit pgm image. If you stick a -T on the end you might get a tiff file instead.

NigelM

I need to get in to the actual sensor first

My immediate reaction to anyone saying it can't be done is to go and do it or at least have a jolly good try

I have hit my first hurdle with the 1100D sensor - I can't get the glass cover off - yet Been trying with a Stanley knife but can't get underneath it - only succeded in chipping some bits of glass away. I'm thinking of trying my hot air gun to see if the adhesive will soften

I guess if the glass breaks the sensor will still have some protection if I leave the UV/IR filter on.

Very interesting My gunge has arrived and I've found the sensor assembly that came out of my very first 1100D that's now all in bits So I'll soon be examining the sensor and taking it apart. I shall have to decide which working camera I'm going to put it in to see the result I guess the easiest would be the currently untouched one - my spare

Maximum risk £200 replacement value :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320885602263?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I could try that - I have a bottle of IPA, I use it for cleaning filters, sensor outer glass and for removing thermal paste etc. before applying new. I have two spare 1100D sensors so a bit of experimenting would be possible - but not too much as I don't want two dead sensors - that would leave only one's in use to have a go at. I can't afford too many dead cameras Though at the present rate of progress I might save myself the cost of an astro CCD camera.

Yes... The mono is just a bit lighter but not as much as your partly Bayer removed image would indicate. It will be more interesting to compare NB shots. My buffing paste is "Out for Delivey" so I should be able to make a start mysel today - I'm very much looking forward to that As you probably know I love extreme modding

Good capture

Nebulosity's debayer routine is separate as well..

Here are modified diagrams :-

Drilled a hole through the woodwork to take a bolt for the pulley but now rain's stopped play

I've been unable to source a 4" pulley as I would have liked so I'll go with the pulley included with the winch (with about a 2" pulley). The rope fits it perfectly.

I use DSS for stacking mono images from a CCD and just untick the fits box for the matrix....dunno if this would work for a converted colour camera..

The rope came this morning so one small bit of progress.

I've been having a further good look at where the winch, rope and pulley(s) can go and I can't see any alternative to my original plan. There's no room around the edge of the RORO roof for the winch. I've looked at the other (north) side with the higher runner but the roof is considerably more difficult to move from there. The main mass to move is in the south-side wall. The actual roof is of relatively light construction and the north-side wall is only about a foot to two foot high and also relatively light with 2mm acrylic sheet rather than shiplap weatherboarding. The bulk of the resistance to movement is in the 5 rollers/wheels of the south wall carriage and my engineering experience tells me that that is where to apply force to move the whole structure. Q.E.D.

I have a whole host of old webcams that I don't want but if the sensors are that different from the Canon ones I'm not sure if testing on a webcam would be any use.

I've ordered the ScratchX 2.0 from Amazon plus some paint stripper I might try :- http://www.amazon.co...ils_o00_s00_i00

Both due to arrive tomorrow.

I'm hoping I shall be able to see how the job is going as I do it without continuously putting the sensor back in a camera and connecting everything up. I may initially play with an old webcam which can be run with the sensor exposed - just take the works out of the case and remove the lens assembly. Much smaller sensor chip though.