Gina

Been trying to point the scope at the tree on the far hill that I use to set up in daytime but having trouble trying to work out how KStars works! I think I need to get familiar with the new software before trying things out in the observatory where I can't see what's happening (until I set up a webcam to look at the scope). Going to bring the rig back indoors and put it back on the NEQ6 mount in the living room where I can see what's going on. Trying to run before I can walk

I've been out and put the scope rig on the mount. Balanced in Dec, no problem but RA was different. With no counterweight, scope end heavy with weight on bar and right up against mount, the weight side was too heavy. I need a lighter counterweight. The turning torque is less with the counterweight on - maybe this mount is powerful enough not to worry too much about balance. Guess I can try until I can get a lighter weight of some sort.

The tutorial is under way and I'm planning to add to it today - lots of interest in it The weather is fine ATM - the rain and clouds have gone away for the present and we have a lovely sunny day. Unfortunately more rain is forecast for this afternoon and evening. I think I shall put the scope imaging rig out onto the EQ8 mount in the observatory though in the hope of clear night skies before too long.

Been collecting data for writing that tutorial - not as simple as it seemed. A few false moves and backtracks in the process I quoted in this thread mean the results might not be exactly what I got when starting completely from scratch. So I think I need to write down all the moves and then test it with a brand new empty micro SD card.

Yes indeed Looks fine. Now we are both waiting for clear skies!!!

Well, I think this rig is ready for the next time we get a clear night sky. Although the focussing is very fine, I think it's probably usable as it is - the manual focus is in hundreds which having experimented is probably equivalent to 2 counts of my Arduino remote focuser. It will be interesting to see if the auto-focus works when we have stars. I shall probably set up the rig out in the observatory next time we get a fine day - it's raining again now. Now that I appear to have the INDI server software working properly I can shift my attention to the widefield imaging rig. The backed up last version of the RPi software can be loaded into a new micro SD card. The next part of that project is to design and print a box to contain the electronics and also finish off the extra electronics on the stripboard. This will be posted in my other thread Mountings and Controls For Widefield Imaging Rig

Conclusion :- The hardware and software seems to be fully working. The Astrodon filters are parfocal, which I found before with this scope (being an APO). I can use the manual focus in the Astroberry Focuser control virtually as easily as I did with my Arduino version. Have to see how well everything works with stars rather than twigs but it's looking very promising

Ha 5nm filter - focus 4250.

SII 3nm filter. Focus at 4250.

OIII 3nm filter - focus still looks good.

Finally, here's the full frame screenshot of the KStars FITS Viewer. This is a much clearer view than I get by eye as the trees are almost invisible in the mist. The narrow bandwidth in the red end of the spectrum helps cut through the mist. Incidentally, I had to increase the exposure from 1ms in L to 1s in Ha 3nm.

Here's the result. Focus seemed best at 4250 changing 50 ticks at a time but the atmosphere caused variation in focus so I averaged (in my head) over several exposures.

Having focused with the Luminance Baader filter I will now change to the Ha 3nm Astrodon filter and increase the exposure to get a picture then refocus and see what the difference is. Theoretically it should be ⅓mm different as the Baader filters are 2mm thick and the Astrodon 3mm.

Yes, that works Chose a smaller area from the centre of the image and put the binning back to 1. Then went over to the focuser and adjusted the focus in hundreds of ticks. That about represents one focus count in my Arduino based focuser. Having manually set the focus for 5,000 ticks (centre of the range) the Astroberry ticks for best focus turned out to be 4600. Here is an image, not just of the central area but further zoomed in to show individual twigs of the tree, about a mile away.

Thanks Marci But I think I'm more able to alter the mechanics than the code ATM. Manually roughly focused on the trees and re-engaged the gears then worked out how to use the mount controls and put the tree line in the middle of the frame. Now I can select just a small part of the image to (hopefully) reduce the download time because even with 8bit data selected it takes 4s to download and strains the ol' patience

Remote focus is working but its far too fine. The full range of 10,000 ticks only moves the focus about a mm.

Powered up and ready to test EFW works. Captured with 1ms exposure and Ha 3nm filter and got blank screen - changed to L filter and got image, currently out of focus.

Now have rig on NEQ6 mount pointing out of the east window. Need to make up a power cable before trying it. Stopping for a cuppa ATM.

The rain has stopped here but still very windy and the visibility is rather poor. I think I'll have a go at putting the rig on the NEQ6 mount. At least I could see how the controls work.

Looks good I might need to increase the thickness of my Delrin spacers.

The only guider app I've used is PHD and hoping to get away without guiding with the ASI1600MM-Cool with its short exposures. Maybe someone else knows or ask on the INDI forum. I'm still very much a novice with INDI etc.

Heavy rain here Same forecast for days and days though might ease off a bit now and then. Running the focus motor takes about 300mA, the RPi about 200mA. I'm using a 1A fuse for the RPi and focuser (and dew heater if connected) and a 3A fuse for the camera and EFW. Cooling current depends on voltage - higher voltage takes lower current. At 13.8v 40% cooling took 800mA - cooling to -18°C with 20°C ambient. Didn't test it at full cooling as I'm testing with a 1A PSU ATM. When I test it tomorrow with mount etc. I'll use my 5A PSU

Hmm... Clear skies??? Wassat then???

Checked camera cooling - working

Everything required to capture images seems to be included in KStars/Ekos including astrometry, auto-focussing, auto meridian flip, sequencer, etc. And all free I have quite a lot to learn about KStars but I'm sure it'll be fun. Must say, it's nice having everything in the one package and not have to mess about with a whole raft of applications as in Windows.