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Paliadon

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  • Content Count

    107
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11 Good

About Paliadon

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    Ataija@hotmail.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Seymour, Victoria, Australia
  1. C/2012 F6 (Lemmon) "Comet in Octans" My first ever attempt at capturing a comet. Pretty chuffed at how well it actually turned out. 30 second exposure on ISO 1250 with an exposure bias of +3 steps. You can note the faint tail at the top left of the comet. Taken with a Nixon D300s T-adapted to the back of my 12" Meade LX200 ACF telescope. RA: 16 14m 44.04s Dec: -86° 32' 32.5"
  2. This is my second attempt at capturing the moon with a Nikon D300 SLR. I took this photograph of the Waxing Gibbous moon on the 21st of January 2013. Getting better. This photograph contains 27 stacked frames. Stacked through Registax and post edited with PS CS5. Turned out okay. Once I have the technique down pat I intend to do a complete series documenting the Lunar cycle. Hopefully sometime in early Winter. It is also my first attempt at stacking.
  3. Hello Olly and Merlin, thanks for your replies. Luckily for me I have mounted this telescope on a pier I have built for my soon to be realised observatory. I will definitely be heading out tonight to have a crack at drift and to try and find Octans in my polar scope. I hope this helps me. Merlin, are you anywhere near Seymour? Any help either via phone or a visit might help. :-) Kris J. Parker Seymour, Victoria - Australia
  4. Would it be an idea to start taking more exposures I order to stack them to increase the clarity and bring out more detail? Kris J. Parker Seymour, Victoria - Australia
  5. Thanks Black Knight! Will keep on going and try to get as accurate as possible. Would you suggest a drift alignment at the start of every session? Kris J. Parker Seymour, Victoria - Australia
  6. Okay, quick one. I have ZERO chance to properly and accurately align my scope in the Southern Hemisphere location in live due to heavy light pollution. In this case I have roughed it in with compass and string lines as well as t-squares and spirit levels. My question, can I forgo an precise polar alignment and use the drift alignment method to accurately and precisely polar align my scope for longer duration exposures? I am now moving away from being, "she'll be right" purely for observing and want to get more serious about my imaging. One last question, should I also do a three-star alignment after drift alignment? Thanks in advance for your advice. Kris J. Parker Seymour, Victoria - Australia
  7. Thanks for your advice guys, I will head out again tonight and persevere at it. I have it mounted on a pier and a purpose built deck. It stays out there full time now-a-days so once I polar align it hopefully I can use the drift alignment method to fine tune it in the future. I'll let you know how I go. Kris J. Parker Seymour, Victoria - Australia
  8. As for my polar alignment, I am having HUGE dramas polar aligning due to massive light pollution and pretty hard to see constellation to line up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  9. Hi NightFisher, I exposed this image for 10 seconds. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  10. Hi Steve, I have made it so high so that I am able to build a deck around it. When fully erected (I will post pics shortly) I will stand and it will be a comfortable height. :-)
  11. I have at last started to image using my scope and DSLR camera. A poor mans version at this stage. I am still having trouble even locating Musca (for Southern Polar Alignment) due to light pollution. I have sighted it in roughly and used a t-square and compass to rough it in. If anyone can spot any glaring issues, please let me know. I have attempted to image M42 and 47 Tucane. Both using a Nikon D90 attached to the rear of my Meade LX200 ACF OTA with an f6.3 focal length reducer attached. All hints will be welcomed.
  12. Hi guys, I have a couple of queries regarding collimation of my telescope. It is a Meade LX200 ACF OTA mounted on a NEQ6Pro mount. I have attached a photograph of the best I can achieve. The screws are not all tight, one is stiull fairly loose. Any hints as to how to get accurate collimation? Would this collimation as seen in the pictures below result in my inambility to focus on stars to a pin [removed word]? I can only seem to get a small blur not a pin [removed word]. I have a zero image shift focuser; however, this does not tend to help. I have attached two pictures of what I see.
  13. Pretty poor effort; however, I believe I am having some issues with collimation of my scope. This image weas taken with a NIkon D90, a t-adapter attached to the rear of my scope.
  14. I took this one and forgot about it for a while. Ended up pretty happy with the end result. D300 attached to the back of my LX200 OTA ACF Meade. It is quite hard to get the clarity though from a single frame.
  15. I supported my plastic tubing on two bricks to allow for the rebar to be placed up the tube and then marry up with the concrete in the hole itself. I also placed rebar supports through the tubing as well as flexible corrugated piping fro the top of the pier (side of the top) and then though the bottom for future power/cable running. Don't forget to rebar the base of the pier as this stops concrete from cracking or other wise breaking during setting and later when your pier is being used with a heavy scope. Good luck mate and post some photo's when you get done.
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