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JamesF

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Posts posted by JamesF

  1. 1 minute ago, Mognet said:

    Quite possibly. Tonight it's 22mph, tomorrow gusting 50 according to the BBC forecast

    The forecast for here is for the wind to be gusting up to the mid 40s until getting towards Friday lunchtime.  My observatory is in the lee of the house and in fact the top of the roll-off roof is below the house ground floor level, but the weather station mounted there is still measuring wind speeds of over 30mph!

    James

  2. On 07/05/2021 at 18:37, nameunknown said:

    Just tried out Astronomy Linux from a freshly cooked bootable USB  using the option to install alongside. It seems to have partitioned the disk, and then perhaps failed on the GRUB install, so I don't get the option to boot into my old system. It then ran an update, which failed on one package and aborted. The "broken" packages are "indi-asi" and "indi-full". Will keep playing with it, but please be aware the "install alongside option" may be a little risky.

     

    I missed this at the time.

    There has been a problem with recent INDI releases because of a clash between the version of libraw provided by the standard system and the version packaged with INDI.  I suspect that might have been what you fell foul of.  It's not always a problem because it depends what other packages you may have installed that also use libraw.  Even with the latest INDI release I believe it's still a problem for Ubuntu 20.04-based distributions.  At least, that's how it looked to me last night when I updated my laptop to test a problem with Point Grey/FLIR cameras and oacapture.  As far as I recall it also causes problems with Gimp and Shotwell.

    I believe that the problem should go away for any distribution based on Ubuntu 21.04, but I've not tried it in anger yet so I can't say for certain.

    James

  3. My personal feeling is that if the camera has dead or hot pixels, I'd rather the firmware didn't mess about with the data in ways that I don't necessarily understand, control or am able to reverse.  I'll take the raw data please, and if I decide it needs messing about with then I'll be the one to do it the way I want it done.

    Not everyone may share this opinion :)

    James

    • Like 2
  4. 5 minutes ago, wulfrun said:

    You'll need the pitch and the motor-shaft size information.

    Vernier calipers should do for this I think, if you can measure the diameter of the motor shaft and the diameter of the output gear across two opposing teeth.

    James

  5. 1 hour ago, Seelive said:

    MotionCo also do a range of pulleys and belts.

    Indeed so.  They would be my first port of call for that, but as already mentioned, people who specialise in radio controlled models, or even parts for building robots might be worth a look too.

    James

  6. 45 minutes ago, CraigT82 said:

    I *think* it might be possible, looking at the pics of how the motor attaches - by a single bolt - to simply rotate the entire motor around the fixing bolt to make the new 12t gear mesh with the existing 60t gear?

    That was my assumption.  It looks as though it may be possible.  Otherwise it's probably easier to go the belt & pulleys route.

    James

  7. An alternative might be to replace both gears by timing pulleys in a 5:1 ratio with a belt.  You'd not get the reversal of the direction of rotation then though, so you'd probably have to use it with the handset in southern hemisphere mode.

    James

  8. Someone like MotionCo might be able to supply a suitable replacement for the 24-tooth gear, but the tricky bit may actually be working out what to replace it with as there are plenty of gear profiles and spindle diameters to choose from.  Assuming you can get the correct spindle diameters it might be easier to replace both gears with a matching pair of the correct ratio.

    James

  9. 3 minutes ago, BCN_Sean said:

    a ASI120MC which I got for coins because "it didn't work on Linux"

    A 120MM that I have sitting here on my desk producing images in oacapture right now says it certainly can work on Linux.  It may require some faffing around and I don't know if it will work with all applications, but I guess you're going to find that one out :)

    James

    • Like 2
  10. 1 hour ago, iapa said:

    Any motor if manually rotated is a generator.

    If still connected to a control board there is potential to damage the board - subject to the voltage/current the manually rotated motor can generate.

    That was one of the reasons I was initially concerned about moving the X and Y axes manually.  With my old printer I could move the heads by controlling them via RepetierHost over the USB connection, so I didn't need to worry about it.  However, disconnecting the motors and moving the axes manually seems to be the Creality way to do it so that's what I did.  I found a photo of their controller board and it looks like a bespoke design, so perhaps when the "disconnect steppers" option is chosen, it genuinely does disconnect them, rather than just powering them down.  I have no idea.

    James

  11. 10 minutes ago, Mognet said:

    Wikipedia has some more about it https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid

    The "end of life" section there makes me wonder...

    My compost heap can quite comfortably reach 40C when we have sufficient material to feed it, and in fact when I measured it a few weeks back was at 50C.  Would PLA break down reasonably quickly under such conditions?

    And regarding incineration, if burning it does not release any toxins, would it be preferable to save it to put in the wood-burner during the winter (when it would at least be keeping us warm) rather than putting it in the dustbin?

    James

  12. PLA is made from corn starch if I recall correctly, and is biodegradable if you can get it hot enough.  Unfortunately I don't think that's feasible at home.  It would be nice if the local recycling centre had a collection bin for PLA waste though.

    There are people experimenting with recycling waste PLA back into a usable form and I think even a few machines on the market that claim to do so, but I don't think you get back something as good as you started with.  At least, that seemed to be the situation last time I looked.

    Sadly therefore, my waste ends up in the bin.  The positive side is that I have far more good prints than waste, and it's not uncommon for me to print parts that prevent something else being thrown out because it is otherwise unrepairable, so I've decided I can live with the consequences of having to put a small proportion of my output into the bin.

    James

    • Like 1
  13. I had to move the block down a little for the Z axis too.  That may all change again though, as I decided to replace the springs for bed levelling on my older printer because bed levelling was always a bit vague and there are enough to do this one as well.

    And I also had three of the black bolts left over :)

    I've just changed the filament which was a little more awkward than on my old one (which was direct feed rather than Bowden), but that may just be me not being used to it.

    James

  14. 10 hours ago, Mognet said:

    There's an AppImage of 4.9. Not seen the snap images or deb files for a while. Do you know what version it is that's crashing? There were problems with the 3.x versions (I think) where they would crash on startup or cause a BSOD

    It's 4.8 that's crashing for me.  The .deb file is for 4.4.1.  I'll have a go with the AppImage.

    James

  15. 3 minutes ago, adyj1 said:

    Much better! (if you're confident with not electrocuting yourself when messing with electronics...) 

    Well, I've sworn a bit and said "Damn!  That gave me quite a buzz!" once or twice over the last fifty-odd years.  I reckon that probably counts.

    It may run in the family, actually.  Apparently my younger bother developed quite a reputation for attempting to poke screwdrivers into thirteen amp sockets as a toddler.

    James

  16. I tried the snap install, but not the app image.  I discovered though that an earlier release is available as a .deb, so I tried that and it seems to work fine.  On windows it tells me that v4.9 is available, which isn't the case for Linux, so perhaps if I wait for that the problem will go away anyhow.

    I'm pleased with the print I've just done.  Comparing it to the one from my other printer, the bed adhesion is better and the quality of the surfaces where supports have been removed is better.  Part of the latter is down to the different slicing engine I imagine, but also because of the print head fan.  I wonder if the slightly textured surface of the Ender3 print bed helps with adhesion over the smooth glass of the old printer.  I would also say that the top surface is better finished.  There's not a lot in it, but with the Ender3 print I have to feel for unevenness in the top face, whereas it's obvious with the print from the Geeetech Prusa copy.  Where the top surface is a small area, such as the top of a vertical peg, the Ender3 finish is clearly much better.

    I'll have to try to find something that was quite difficult to print well on the Geeetech and see how the Ender3 does.

    James

  17. Looks like Creality use the Ultimaker slicer, and as it happens there's a copy of the Ultimaker slicer available for Linux which means I could do away with an old Windows laptop that I currently use for slicing.  So I downloaded and installed it.  And it crashed as soon as I tried to open a file :(

    James

  18. Having levelled the bed I'm now doing my first "proper" print.  The motors are impressively quiet compared with my old one.  The fans (particularly the internal one, I think) more than makes up for that though.  It won't be staying sitting on my desk beyond the end of this print run :)

    James

    • Like 1
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