What Filters for DSLR Astrophotography (Nikon)

[Digz]

Hi Guys,

Basically what the title says.

I am looking to get a few more bits and pieces for my setup. I currently use a Nikon D200 for my astrophotography work and Im looking to see what kind of filters I can get.

For example is a Light Pollution Reduction - Baader Neodymium Filter anygood for a DSLR? Or a similar light pollution filter?

Im also planning to get a Adaptors - Hotech 1.25" SCA T-Adapter which has an integral 1.25" filter thread and in the future plan to get a mono CCD but for know Im interested in what filters are useful for a DSLR and any experience anyone has with them.

TIA.

[Geno]

I use the 2" SW LPF which seems to work well when imaging with my Canon. Allows me to get longer exposures before I see the effect of the LP. There is a comparison of the Baader and SW filter on this forum somewhere which may help you decide.

Of course it all depends on the LP at your location, I have the old sodium lights so the LPF seems to work ok.

I have a 2" T-adapter because I believe it stops vignetting or something?? I am getting cheaper 1.25" adapter as I want to try planetary imaging so need to connect to a barlow/powermate

[Takahashi]

I agree with Geno, I also use the SW LPF (2") filter. When used with the 500D on the 'scope, there's a noticeable blue-ish cast, but that can be compensated for in PP, and is infinitely preferable to the orange mush of Sodium LP.

This image was just a test, where I plonked the 2" SW LPF on to the front of my lens (set to 18mm f/l), and with (very!) rough alignment, took a 3 minute exposure @ ISO800, f 3.5. The difference between filtered and non-filtered is staggering, as you can see from the areas the filter didn't cover. Also, this was taken within 8 miles of a 100,000 + population town! For a £30 filter, it does the job rather nicely. (I have not processed the image beyond resizing for the forum - it's otherwise "as taken").

[Digz]

Hi guys, thanks for the reply.

I guess Ill have to really think about whether to go for a 1.25" or 2" filter.

Ill have a search for that thread you mentioned Geno, thanks

Ivor, a nice photo which demonstrates well what an LPF can do!! Thanks for sharing.

So, anymore, for anymore?

[Takahashi]

I am getting cheaper 1.25" adapter as I want to try planetary imaging so need to connect to a barlow/powermate

Geno, if you end up with a Powermate, you won't need a 2" - 1.25" adaptor, as they're natively 2", but you will need the extra adaptor for prime-focus imaging, which replaces the main black (non-optical) tube assembly. The chromed part is the only part with glass (optical) components :

[Psychobilly]

If you can go 2" the 1.25" will produce a lot more severe vignetting than the 2" version...

I started with a A Nikon D200 it needs well matched darks and a reasonable gap between exposures used to leave about half the exposure duration between subs and take darks every few frames... the ampglow would also change a lot durign the first 20 mins or so of use.....

Billy...

[Takahashi]

True, even a (much cheaper than a Powermate) 2" standard Barlow would be the way to go, over a 1.25".

[Digz]

Hey Billy, thanks for the input. I guess Im leaning towards going for 2" filters, as you say they will result in less vignetting. So thats a 2" SCA T adapter and 2" filters

I suppose now its just what kind of filters are suitable for use with a DSLR.

[Psychobilly]

The SW LP one is superb value for money and does a pretty good job...

You wont regret going 2" you will still get vignetting but well within the limits of what can be corrected using flats...

A programmable timer remote is invaluable - I have an original Nikon MC-36 but the "clones" you get on ebay do the job just as well for a fraction of the price...

If you have any "issues" with the D200 give me a shout...

Billy...

[Digz]

Cheers Again Billy Ill remember that, and be sure to come a-knocking

I already have a wireless hanhel remote release for long exposure (and a Titan sitting waiting for clear skies for guiding!)

I suppose the next thing I need to figure out is how a 2" SCA T adapter will interface with my MPCC and where the filter would go as well, lol. Im assuming the SCA will fix to my MPCC which will then slide into the scopes focusser, but thats for another discussion

[Psychobilly]

The progamable timer ones let you do sequences of any exposure lenght, with any gap between them and any number of frames...

I used to use stop watches , pebbles in pockets etc but the timer remote just does it all...

TIMER REMOTE CONTROL FOR NIKON D1 D2Xs D200 D300 D3 on eBay (end time 21-Mar-11 02:57:49 GMT)

Have fun

Billy...

[Digz]

Ah sweet, that would make life easier. At the moment Im using a timer app to manually time exposures