Astromaster 130

[riogrande100]

I purchased an Astromaster 130mm about 2 months ago. I planned to use it to view planets and the moons. But having also bought a Canon 1000D recently as well (for holiday snaps), i decided to try some astrophotography.

I have had some mixed results but trying to get better. I am learning to setup my mount properly, and not using it as the point and find method which i was doing in error.

Anyhow i need tracking to take any long exposure pictures, but at the same time live in London and will not get much chance to travel do dark skies.

Therefore should i look to get a fully GOTO mount, and use the same scope? or should I get an MD to get my mount to track.

i think the longest exposure i would take would be around 10 minutes?

Anyway some advice would be helpful i am too much of a noob at this stuff.

[jnp]

I also have one of those (+ same camera), but haven't used that scope in awhile. It's not bad for a starting scope, but not best suited for astrophotography.

I and others have found that you can't attain prime focus (mount camera without eyepeice) as the focuser does not go in enough. You can take photos if you use a barlow, or use afocal imaging(take a photo through the eyepiece). However prime focus is best.

To get 10 minute exposures you need £££££ of kit which can correct and guide itself. However, if you carefully align you can get about 10 to 30 seconds with the inexpensive motor drive. This should allow you to snap some of the planets and common objects.

I found I was more productive on that scope after I got a 32mm lens to help me find objects quicker.

Hope this helps

John

[jgs001]

To get 10 minute exposures, you are going to need to by a heavy duty mount, either silly money or get autoguiding. For autoguiding you need a second scope and camera, and a mount that can be controlled, either from a PC or has a guide port. I think some of the drive upgrades on the smaller mounts provide this capability, but it's generally considered that an HEQ5 is the minimum mount for that sort of image exposures and then only when guided. I also think, you will need a decent LP filter to enable 10 minute subs, even with a mount that can handle it, given your location.

Having said all of that, the motor drive will certainly help, and even if you can only get 30 to 60 second exposures, you will be able to get results with enough subs. This will provide you excellent experience in using the camera, understanding processing etc and get you up and running without spending lots of money.

[riogrande100]

forgot to mention have taken pictures with a Barlow as cannot get true prime focus with the scope. I think 10 seconds exposure will be out of my range but the sounds of things. I think 30 to 60 second images would be more my range and then stack the images.

The guiding methodology will be out of my price range. As long as i can take nice pictures of the moon, planets and nebulae like M42 i should be cool. I have seen some nice pics taken with this scope of some nebula.

If i take shorter exposures does that mean i could even use a goto azimuth mount?

[jgs001]

Yep, you can... have a look at http://stargazerslounge.com/imaging-tips-tricks-techniques/94448-altaz-imaging.html.

[riogrande100]

I think i'll stick to getting as much as possible with my current setup, and throw in a motor drive to at least get 30 to 2 min shots, and then stack then using DSS.

By the way are each of the shots used called subs???

[jgs001]

Yes, a sub is a sub exposure of the overall image.

[riogrande100]

thanks John