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Andromeda M31 Galaxy


Darth Takahashi

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here you can find may attempt at the Andromeda Galaxy. Its only now after 1hour 45mins of total exposure that I feel the results are worth posting.

I managed to get another 45min of data last night between clouds and rain. I had to find a new use for my sun blind, a rain shield! In fact it has taken me nearly 1month to get to this point. If you look closely you can see that the alignment between the two sets of exposure isn't correct. Are well such are the issues with tearing down and setting up each night!

Telescope: TOA130F with focal reducer, so @ 6.3 not 7

Camera: Kiss 2X (450D) unmodified

I hope you like it, clear sky's!

Neil.

post-15658-133877404204_thumb.jpg

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Nicely done Neil... I get the same alignment issue with all my multiple night images... A quick rotate with free transform and crop will deal with it.. as will selecting only the background and running the average filter on it, although that's rather harsh...

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a quick solution to the alignment problem might be to point the scope/camera south and align the camera to a spirit level.

Dennis

Not sure that I'm following this :) please explain further as I'm now really curious as to how this works? My problem is that when I frame the galaxy up in the view finder it never quite the same!

If I understand correctly your procedure would guaranty the same alignment but I would lose control over the framing! Have I understood this correctly?:D

Regards

Neil.

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Here is my final version of Andromeda for now. Last night I managed to add another 2 hours of data to the original image. The total image now is comprised of 71 individual captures at either ISO800/1600.

Same camera, same telescope as before, no filters were used.

I feel that I have now reach the point of diminishing returns, what do you think?

Anyway I hope you like it.

Regards

Neil.

post-15658-133877404754_thumb.jpg

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Which image processing tool are you using to do this? So far all my final adjustments are made with Photoshop.

Regards

Neil.

Sorry Neil, I missed your reply... There's two options..

1) With only a single layer, and that layer selected, Edit, transform, rotate (I think), then grab the corner and twist... then crop to suit

2) Use the ruler tool, draw along one of the hard lines that shows, then select, image, rotate, arbitrary. The correct degrees will appear in the box, click ok, the image will rotate, crop to suit.

Although, it looks like you have succeeded. Nice result too.

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i think the big thing here is the need for flats...

paul

Now you have me by the B#ll$ to be blunt...:) As I never take flats... I have always used Photoshop to make artificial flats when necessary..

Darks & Bias, no problem but I've never had much use for flats. Yes I've also read the books and understand the complete image reduction process but I guess I see flats as something for CCD a camera and not DSLR's.

Also the telescope that I use has excellent illumination even for a full frame sensor so I figured that I can skip them for a cropped 1.6 sensor! I actually thought the alignment between sessions was the real issue since when stacking the angles were +/-15 degrees.:D

Neil.

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Neil, I don't get illumination issues with my SLR that I've ever noticed, but I use flats to remove the crud from the imaging train... I ended up with a hair of some sort on the sensor during my M45 capture the other night (gone now with the application of a rocket blower). But flats removed it without any fuss.

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just get a tshirt, or a white towel...place over end of scope and secure...make sure the material is flat..ie no wrinkles.

point at a bit of blue sky or white cloud away from the sun...

shoot flats at 3/4 signal level. judge using histogram

shoot around 30 or more...then average.

shoot bias frames too, and subtract from flats.

apply flats

be happy

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