Heart Nebula, Player One Ares C PRO

[Magnum]

I tested my friend Tommy Norton's new Player One camera last night for him on the Heart Nebula, here is my processed image.

Pretty identical image quality to my ZWO ASI533MC Pro which uses the same sensor, only difference I noticed is the cooling is more efficient, it was only using 14% power -15C.

Camera: Player One Ares C Pro.

Telescope: Sharpstar 61EDPHII f4.5 Triplet.

Filter: Altair Triband V1.

Mount: EQ8 Pro

Guided, Captured, Stacked & stretched in MaximDL, Graxpert AI gradient removal, Starnett++, Processed in Photoshop. No Darks or Flats

 

 

 

 

Edited November 4, 2023 by Magnum

[iantaylor2uk]

Looks good. I personally wouldn't bother cooling to -15 with this sensor, -5 or even 0 C should be fine.

[Magnum]

18 minutes ago, iantaylor2uk said:

Looks good. I personally wouldn't bother cooling to -15 with this sensor, -5 or even 0 C should be fine.

Thanks

Not sure why you wouldn't make use of the cooling if it's there, the Dark Current charts show an improvement down to -15C then it levels off as it approaches -20C so cleaner the better. and ive been using my ZWO533 at -15C for 3 years

Lee

Edited November 4, 2023 by Magnum

[Elp]

Depends on the environment, I've usually always used minus 10 deg C. I often use uncooled as well which run between 10-15 degrees, makes little difference after you've applied noise reduction.

[iantaylor2uk]

1 hour ago, Magnum said:

Thanks

Not sure why you wouldn't make use of the cooling if it's there, the Dark Current charts show an improvement down to -15C then it levels off as it approaches -20C so cleaner the better. and ive been using my ZWO533 at -15C for 3 years

Lee

Only reason really is I run my rig off a battery, so it will last longer if you cool at zero or - 5 C. The noise is so low in this camera it doesn't make much difference really. 

[Magnum]

I agree its very low noise whatever temperature, and if your running off of a battery then of course battery life is more important.

 But the point of a cooled camera to me is to get the cleanest possible data,  and where power isn't a factor then its clear from both the Player One and ZWO graphs that Dark current drops continuously until -15 then starts to level off as it approaches -20C, I can see a difference in my narrowband data, so it clearly is worth cooling more.

There are no rules in this hobby, I just like to get as close to the optimum wherever possible.

cheers

Lee

[iantaylor2uk]

If you plot the data on a linear scale rather than a logarithmic scale you will see why 0 or - 5 C are plenty low enough. Usually light pollution swamps the camera noise in the UK.