New Build - prototype in Correx

[powerlord]

Hi chaps, so - I've got a 2.6m diameter paved circle that I do my imaging in. I can fit both my EQ6es and scopes in that.

I'm fully automated with asiair, so I have been humming and hawing about a shed type build, but it doesn't make sense for me - it brings a whole heap of other issues like height of scopes to clear shed sides, which means piers, which means concrete, etc

I think all I actually need is a secure waterproof 'shed' around my current location.

My plan is to build this in Correx plastic sheet first (2mm ribbed sheeting). this will be pretty solid once assembled and will let me easily adjust, change and otherwise fiddle with it.

The basic idea is a base 'A' which is a 1m high cylinder of correx, with an internal 'shelf' at the top of the cylinder around 2-3cm wide all around the inside (nylon pave edger).

Base B is a second 1m high cylinder of correx, but with  the internal shelf around 25cm into the base. Additionally, the top is pent, with a correct eliptical roof.

the roof and base B and solidly and waterproofly connected.

the internal shelf have magnets arranged around them.

So basically the top B+roof just lift off and can be put on lawn for imaging. Then in morning, popped back on.

It should be fully water resistant, decently wind resistant.. but of course, with the prototype correx, not exactly secure.

Once I've sorted out the niggles, I do the same thing with think corregated galvanised steel sheeting.

here's a mickey mouse animation showing the roof lifting off, along with roughly what it will look like in garden.

Top of front highest bit of pent is enough to clear my mounts with scopes fitted in home position (tripods in lowest position which is where I used them from)

Basically during the day it's gonna just look like a hot tub really.

 

 

 

Edited January 10, 2022 by powerlord

[Peter Drew]

Not a one person lift off , surely?   🤔

[powerlord]

it better be, as Im only one person 🙂 top part shouldn't weigh more than 10-15kg or so

[Peter Drew]

It wasn't the weight that concerned me, it was the ergonomics of the girth.     🙂

[powerlord]

it's a fair point. one of the reasons I reckon Correx prototype first. It's not massive, so a handle in middle of roof would allow a  vertical lift (rather than try to grab around the girth - so might find that work best.

Or perhaps two  car starter solenoids under roof. Press to first roof up into the air and then catch it ? 🤪

[powerlord]

So I'm humming and hawing about going straight to lightweight box section galvanised sheeting.

You can get 12 45cm x 129cm sheets (.27mm thick) from ebay for 80 quid. very thin, but really ideal for this job.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143822624013

3 sets of those should do the lot.

I'd like to keep it as simple as possible, and as I've been happily using the slab base for a year I know thats fine for the mounts- If I find I need to tweak the PA once a week it's not the end of the world.

My thoughts are:

use 3x3" stabs with post anchors rather than concrete. mount these around the outside of the existing 260cm circular slabs. I'll remove around 4" out of top grass from around the slabs and replace with gravel.

attach and screw in the steel sheets, with each alternate one to a post, the other one being floating and secured the the next with self drilling screws/silicone.

At the back of the circle I need a door- not sure how to do this at present, but I'm thinking around between two of the posts (90cm or so) - putting some sort of frame on those sheets and hinges, etc so that it can open up/close and be secure with some sort of lock.

On top of that, goes the removable section. This consists of the shape in the animation above. once all connected in the round and joined to the roof with L joints and fixings, it will be very solid. It can be made slightly larger circumference than the base, so it slips over it, and with an internal rim around 30cm into it all round, this will be the load bearing surface that sits on top of the bottom section.

Again, this needs to be secured, and I'm thinking of using electro-magnetic remote servo locks. I've used these in my motorhome and they work really well.

As the roof is then just some very think panels it should be very light and not too tricky to pop off and on. Once off, the door can be opened to allow me to get in and out when required.

As it's pretty solid I can mount my power, light, security webcam, ethernet, etc all to the inside of the lower part. I'm thinking about a humidity controlled 50w pipe heater as well, just to keep the humidity down.

this seems to me to be a decent way of getting what I want. the mounts themselves are just 2 EQ6s on 2" SS tripods. I'll drill small indents in the slabs where they sit aligned and put some sugra in there to just settle the legs. I see now reason why they shouldn't stay perfectly aligned really.

The roof remains high enough to leave the scopes on if I'm imaging the next night or whatever, but mosty I imagine I'll remove the scopes and just leave the mounts out there with the connected gubbins (asiairs, etc)

In the future, maybe I can automate the roof on/off, but tbh I don't think it will be an issue.

The think I like about this also is that IF it 2 or 3 years I get sick of it, it's all easily removable leaving only 10 holes to be filled - no slabs of concrete, etc.

anyone done anything similar ? I have searched and come up empty, but for me a 6" high shed just creates more issues than it solves so it's not for me.

 

[old_eyes]

The box section sheeting is certainly flexible enough, but the stuff has vicious edges. If you are planning to lift the whole top section off, I think you need a way of rounding the exposed edges. Possibly split rubber tubing? I would not want to drop the lid on my leg or trap my hand/arm.

Also, to make a door you want a timber frame at the doorway that makes sure it is wood where you are going to knock into it on entering and leaving, not steel sheet.