First time user of a cooled colour camera, looking for some advice.

[George Gearless]

I've just bought my first cooled camera (Omegon vTec 533 Colour). I haven't had the chance to use it just yet because of the weather. But I have fiddled around with the settings in Stellarmate, and once I updated the OS, everything seems to be in working order.

I run a temporary setup in the garden and have to assemble/dismantle everything at each session. So far I've left the telescope and mount outside while taking darks, in order to maintain the same temperature. Since I can now precisely control the temperature on the camera, I was thinking that the time I've used before on taking darks outside, can now be used to gather data instead. Because now I can move inside and just set the same temperature and let Stellarmate take the dark sequence(s) while I'm heading off to bed. 

Because it's colder outside than inside, I can achieve a much lower temperature than I can inside (-/+ 40c). 

Is my plan of convenience doomed to fail (or at least inadvisable), because I should always run at as low a temperature as I can possibly achieve? Or is the difference in quality between, say, -15 and -30 negligible?

Apart from the question above, maybe you also have some tips or do's and don'ts when it comes to running a cooled colour camera. I'd greatly appreciate a few pointers if you have them.

 

George

 

 

 

[CloudMagnet]

Yes, you have the right idea. In terms of the best temperature to use the camera at for imaging, the lower the temperature, the lower the noise level. However, you do get diminishing returns normally at around -10c. You normally will be able to find a graph for your camera from the manufacturer that shows the effect of temperature on the noise/dark current levels.

I usually image at around -10/-15c as this gives a low enough noise level and also means I can build a dark library for different exposure lengths, at these temps I can do this indoors without over-stressing the cooling system on the camera so saves a lot of time on imaging nights. Nothing to stop you going to a lower temperature, but you also dont want to run the cooling at near 100% capacity means if the ambient temperature increases, your cooling system will not be able to maintain the temperature and your subs will start coming out at different noise levels.

You might already be doing this, but always make sure to use any warming and cooling aids your software was. You don't want to cool or warm the camera too quick as you can risk thermal shock to the sensor so the software can ensure that the temperature is adjusted at a steady pace.

[The Lazy Astronomer]

Thermal noise is so insignificant compared to read noise and (most significantly) shot noise, that it will make virtually no difference to the overall noise level of the image.

What's most important is to ensure the same temperature is used for lights and darks, to enable proper dark calibration. The advantage of a cooled camera is - presuming you always use the same temperature - you can reuse your darks ad infinitum.

If you haven't already, I highly recommend watching this video of a talk by Dr Robin Glover: 

 

[George Gearless]

Excellent. Thanks.

Will probably watch it later tonight. I might as well, 'cause I'm not going to be setting up my camera anytime soon, according to the weather-man.

[boulderbelly]

yeah the weatherman seems to know when someone buys anything astronomical  and turns the Tap on.🌧️🌧️. for ages!!  especially in Scotland!