Baader clicklock as an alternative to the HG Parallizer?

[amaury]

Hi guys,

I have read in a couple of places that the Howie Glatter Parallizer doesn't work with eyepiece that are wide above the 1.25" barrel. Like a Baader Zoom for example, which is a shame.

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/512357-glatter-parallizer-question/

The question is: does the Baader Clicklock also achieve the same level of tilt-free/wobble-free experience as the HG Parallizer?

Cheers,

Amaury

[Ricochet]

12 hours ago, amaury said:

The question is: does the Baader Clicklock also achieve the same level of tilt-free/wobble-free experience as the HG Parallizer?

I've not owned the HG to compare, but my clicklocks have always held every eyepiece that I have tried perfectly so far as I am aware. However, the 2"-1.25" reducer clicklock has an undercut, so there is the possibility that your 2" eyepiece clamp will tilt the clicklock, so then all your eyepieces will be tilted by the same amount, in which case you will want to change the 2" clamp for a clicklock as well.

[amaury]

Thanks @Ricochet, I see what you mean. The HG also deals with that, it's a shame that there is always a balancing act with whatever you decide to do. The parallizer basically locks you out of the wide Explore Scientific eyepieces or the Baader Zoom.

I guess your solution for a similar tilt-free wobble/free with the clicklock system will be something like in the post referenced below (you even commented in that post). 

 I have a SW skyliner 200p. So the full clicklock solution would be a 2" 54a + 2" -1.25" reducer. That solution still could be problematic because it changes the optical length of the whole thing so this person had issues with focusing after replacing the 2" clamp with a clicklock. 

would you say that your clicklock experience is tilt-free? I am pretty sure it'll be wobble-free, not so sure about the tilt consistency of the clicklock. Thanks for the feedback.

[Ricochet]

37 minutes ago, amaury said:

would you say that your clicklock experience is tilt-free? I am pretty sure it'll be wobble-free, not so sure about the tilt consistency of the clicklock. Thanks for the feedback.

I am visual only so I haven't attached a camera and used any inspection software to 100% guarantee it, but as far as I can tell there is no tilt. The clamping of the clicklock is absolutely consistent so if there is a tiny bit of tilt it will be the same each time. If you fit clicklocks then the weaknesses in your optical train will be the focuser and even flex in the OTA tube wall.

[Barry-W-Fenner]

Hi Amaury

Hope all is well and you are enjoying the 200p

I can confirm what Ricochet says about the  1.25 to 2" click lock  adapter in the standard 2" focus tube. It does in fact tile slightly. I spent a lot of time using my concentre to try and align the secondary mirror in the circles on my 300p. I couldn't get them to align at all. It turned out that when I took the 1.25 to 2" click lock adapter out and replacedit with the standard 1.25 to 2" adapter I got the mirror to align perfectly.

I am now considering purchasing a 2" click lock to put my 1.25 to 2" reducer in, that way I know the optical train is in line. I think I will need a 47mm 2" click lock to replace the standard extension.

Hope this helps a bit.

baz

[amaury]

2 hours ago, Ricochet said:

If you fit clicklocks then the weaknesses in your optical train will be the focuser and even flex in the OTA tube wall.

Thanks @Ricochet, sounds like the clicklock system is the next best thing after the Parallizer. 

Hi @Barry-W-Fenner , all is well and I am very happy with the 200p. I am learning a lot. I took it for a short ride to a bortle 4 area in the South Downs park the other night and wow! I hope everything is fine with you too.

1 hour ago, Barry-W-Fenner said:

I am now considering purchasing a 2" click lock to put my 1.25 to 2" reducer in, that way I know the optical train is in line

I think that's the best to achieve that, or the parallizer too (with some caveats).