Atik 16200 First Light test

[TakMan]

Picked up second hand (hardly used, less than 2yrs old) late October last year for a great price. Wanted to get this 'Winter Season' out of the way before swapping things over - did this season ever really get started.... 😪

So, first light testing (26th Feb). First time out using the Atik OAG and EFW3, having ditched the Tak Focal Reducer, the TrueTech filter wheel and separate ST-80 guide scope.

Before, was using two computers: the MacBook to control the SBIG camera/Robofocuser via 'Equinox Image' and a Windows (7) PC for CduC and PHD2.

Now with everything running with one machine, hoping to try platesolving next time out - it all works via ASTAP testing on the dining room table!

Thanks to 'Han59' on here for his help and advice getting CCDciel set up- the autofocus 'stay in place' routine worked a treat on the night. Slight issues with the EFW3 loosing connection, but I think that was a flaky USB connection into it, plus the odd 'very PC' com port issue - something we Mac users have little idea about!

Taken under a 99% illuminated moon. Baader 7nm Ha 2" mounted filter, just 3x 1200 sec exposures. -20 cooling. Dark and flat frames (no flat darks though). Pre-processed in Nebulosity and then gradient removal and sharpening in APP last night whilst watching a film, so no great care taken at this stage for this image. Some tilt in one corner which I will try and address at some stage. Don't like the camera rotation. Having undertaken the test, removed the gear last weekend, added an additional spacer so that the focuser doesn't need to be racked out so far, adjusted the OAG stalk as there was too much shadow on the flats for my liking, rotated the camera 90 degrees. Cables now all sorted and the EFW3 USB secured - 'garage testing' appears sound!

This camera gives me a slightly larger field and a nice jump in resolution 2.33" per pixel over the previous set-up (the SBIG 8300 and Tak FR was 2.88" per pixel). I've seen mentioned elsewhere that the data from the 16200 was very 'easy' to work with and even at this early stage, I felt it was, even with just three exposures, compromised with the moonlight.

One issue has come to light... there is dust inside the camera chamber. Atik/Vince have been great and despite a backlog with Atik due to Covid/Brexit, the camera will be going back for a service soon.

So some more testing and sorting once it's back and I'll be ready for the Autumn season - with the nights getting shorter, the FSQ will be removed to make way for the TEC140 and it's lunar/solar imaging duties... perhaps I will have to sort the ST8300m to play with the TEC as well at some stage...

Damian

 

Edited March 10, 2021 by TakMan

[tooth_dr]

20 minutes ago, TakMan said:

Picked up second hand (hardly used, less than 2yrs old) late October last year for a great price. Wanted to get this 'Winter Season' out of the way before swapping things over - did this season ever really get started.... 😪

So, first light testing (26th Feb). First time out using the Atik OAG and EFW3, having ditched the Tak Focal Reducer, the TrueTech filter wheel and separate ST-80 guide scope.

Before, was using two computers: the MacBook to control the SBIG camera/Robofocuser via 'Equinox Image' and a Windows (7) PC for CduC and PHD2.

Now with everything running with one machine, hoping to try platesolving next time out - it all works via ASTAP testing on the dining room table!

Thanks to 'Han59' on here for his help and advice getting CCDciel set up- the autofocus 'stay in place' routine worked a treat on the night. Slight issues with the EFW3 loosing connection, but I think that was a flaky USB connection into it, plus the odd 'very PC' com port issue - something we Mac users have little idea about!

Taken under a 99% illuminated moon. Baader 7nm Ha 2" mounted filter, just 3x 1200 sec exposures. -20 cooling. Dark and flat frames (no flat darks though). Pre-processed in Nebulosity and then gradient removal and sharpening in APP last night whilst watching a film, so no great care taken at this stage for this image. Some tilt in one corner which I will try and address at some stage. Don't like the camera rotation. Having undertaken the test, removed the gear last weekend, added an additional spacer so that the focuser doesn't need to be racked out so far, adjusted the OAG stalk as there was too much shadow on the flats for my liking, rotated the camera 90 degrees. Cables now all sorted and the EFW3 USB secured - 'garage testing' appears sound!

This camera gives me a slightly larger field and a nice jump in resolution 2.33" per pixel over the previous set-up (the SBIG 8300 and Tak FR was 2.88" per pixel). I've seen mentioned elsewhere that the data from the 16200 was very 'easy' to work with and even at this early stage, I felt it was, even with just three exposures, compromised with the moonlight.

One issue has come to light... there is dust inside the camera chamber. Atik/Vince have been great and despite a backlog with Atik due to Covid/Brexit, the camera will be going back for a service soon.

So some more testing and sorting once it's back and I'll be ready for the Autumn season - with the nights getting shorter, the FSQ will be removed to make way for the TEC140 and it's lunar/solar imaging duties... perhaps I will have to sort the ST8300m to play with the TEC as well at some stage...

Damian

 

Very nice. Recently bought a 16200 myself, but have yet to get a proper first light from it. 

[TakMan]

2 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

Very nice. Recently bought a 16200 myself, but have yet to get a proper first light from it. 

I think you’ll be pleased with the camera. I presume you got Jessun’s camera/FW bargain..?!

For me, the resolution has been a pleasant jump, I’ve gained enough extra FOV to ‘compensate’ for the cropping after nightly realignment and dithering (I did anyway with the old camera but this is a definite extra requirement as you’ll be aware as most 16200 class II chips have a defect or two, or three - mine has a bright column defect right at an edge), but this has been removed with the darks and the dither.

There is still that classic microlensing ‘cross/star’ effect on the bright stars (like the KAF8300, but not as prominent I feel...)

I’m sure it doesn’t match the newer (and more expensive), CMOS sensors for noise and sensitivity, but I like the extra bit of real estate over the APS-C size and much prefer how the stars are rendered on CCD than most of the images I’ve seen on the newer devices (any idea why they look more... ‘fuzzy’..? In print terms, I’d have called it ‘bleed’ from too much ink being put down). I don’t know if that is something to do with the CMOS tech, the optics used or the smaller pixels though... or something else...

Thanks for the reply...

D

Edited March 10, 2021 by TakMan

[tooth_dr]

23 minutes ago, TakMan said:

I think you’ll be pleased with the camera. I presume you got Jessun’s camera/FW bargain..?!

For me, the resolution has been a pleasant jump, I’ve gained enough extra FOV to ‘compensate’ for the cropping after nightly realignment and dithering (I did anyway with the old camera but this is a definite extra requirement as you’ll be aware as most 16200 class II chips have a defect or two, or three - mine has a bright column defect right at an edge), but this has been removed with the darks and the dither.

There is still that classic microlensing ‘cross/star’ effect on the bright stars (like the KAF8300, but not as prominent I feel...)

I’m sure it doesn’t match the newer (and more expensive), CMOS sensors for noise and sensitivity, but I like the extra bit of real estate over the APS-C size and much prefer how the stars are rendered on CCD than most of the images I’ve seen on the newer devices (any idea why they look more... ‘fuzzy’..? In print terms, I’d have called it ‘bleed’ from too much ink being put down). I don’t know if that is something to do with the CMOS tech, the optics used or the smaller pixels though... or something else...

Thanks for the reply...

D

Yes I did buy it.  Like you, I too replaced my KAF-8300, and am planning on using on a 180mm lens for a widefield camera.  I've noticed a bit of tilt in the bottom corner, so my connection between the camera lens and camera must need a bit of adjustment.  It's just getting the clear skies to experiment.   All my KAF-8300 had 2-4 columns, normal, and calibrate out ok.   I got one single 900s subs so far.

 

[TakMan]

44 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

Yes I did buy it.  Like you, I too replaced my KAF-8300, and am planning on using on a 180mm lens for a widefield camera.  I've noticed a bit of tilt in the bottom corner, so my connection between the camera lens and camera must need a bit of adjustment.  It's just getting the clear skies to experiment.   All my KAF-8300 had 2-4 columns, normal, and calibrate out ok.   I got one single 900s subs so far.

 

I must have been lucky with the SBIG then, as mine had no column defects at all (perhaps due to a lack of use!)

But I have to say, what a great FOV with the 16200 and lens combo. Now you have me re-thinking... perhaps I should consider using the focal reducer on the FSQ with the Atik..?

It would give me an even bigger field than using the scope ‘native’ with a full frame sensor, at the expense of resolution - yet still more than the 9 micron 11000 camera still used to great effect by Ollie and the like... choices, choices, hey!

D