mono to rgb/filter times

[Fieldsy]

Hi guys

Is their a general rule for how much time in mono compared to filtered

Ie : mono 600s  Rgb 200s  Ha  100s

How much mono time recorded to filtered time or should it be all equal .

I think that makes sense .?

Si

 

[Skipper Billy]

Not saying its the right way but what I do is.........

Work out how much time I have got - depends on weather, time of year, work tomorrow? etc.... lets say 6 hours

Then spend half that time - 3 hours on Lum binned 1x1 and the other 3 hours on RGB ie an hour each binned 2x2

For exposure time I usually use 600 sec subs for Lum and 300 seconds for RGB (we are blessed with dark skies).

Works for me !!

 

 

[Skipper Billy]

16 minutes ago, Fieldsy said:

Hi guys

PS - there are a lot of women in this forum too !! ?

[Fieldsy]

I very much doubt that is going to offend anyone. ??

[Adam J]

10 hours ago, Skipper Billy said:

PS - there are a lot of women in this forum too !! ?

For me the term 'guys' has become less gender specific in the last 20 years or so anyhow. But people are easy to offend these days.

10 hours ago, Fieldsy said:

Hi guys

Is their a general rule for how much time in mono compared to filtered

Ie : mono 600s  Rgb 200s  Ha  100s

How much mono time recorded to filtered time or should it be all equal .

I think that makes sense .?

Si

 

I agree with skipper billy about the 50% Lum and 50% RGB.

Hence I go lum, lum, lum, Red, Green, Blue....repeat.

I am not sure I agree with the exposure lengths though especially as skipper billy is using a CCD and you are using a uncooled CMOS.

Make your life easy at first, you are going to have to take temperature matched Darks on the same night as your light frames....so if you use different exposure lengths for different filters then you are going to regret it when you come to taking your dark frames as you will need a set of at least 20 for each exposure length!

You have tiny pixels and a only 0.78 Arc-second / pixel image scale.......thats challenging, probably not possible unless you using very short <10second exposures with your EQ5 mount.

If using longer 30 second exposures (as I would recommend when starting out then you are best off binning all your filters 2x2, 1.56 Arc-seconds per pixel is still going to give you good detail and it will increase your image quality with limited data sets.

Do you have a electronic filter wheel? Or a manual filter wheel?

If you have a manual wheel then you are best off focusing between filters as you will likely disturb the focus when changing the filter.

So for LRGB I would go with all 30 second exposures at gain 100 and 2x2 bin for L, R, G and B, unless its a bright target in which case try gain 50. Then collect dark frames at the exact same settings with the camera outside before you pack-up! Really important or you will have a massive starburst amp glow pattern on one side of the image.

My prediction is that you will spend most of your first session focusing and finding the target though

You might want to just polar align, point in in a random direction and try to get a nice star field with round stars on night one.

If not and you do have trouble finding your target then try APT and use plate solving to help you locate the target on the small sensor.

Good Luck

Adam

 

 

 

 

[Fieldsy]

1 hour ago, Adam J said:

For me the term 'guys' has become less gender specific in the last 20 years or so anyhow. But people are easy to offend these days.

I agree with skipper billy about the 50% Lum and 50% RGB.

Hence I go lum, lum, lum, Red, Green, Blue....repeat.

I am not sure I agree with the exposure lengths though especially as skipper billy is using a CCD and you are using a uncooled CMOS.

Make your life easy at first, you are going to have to take temperature matched Darks on the same night as your light frames....so if you use different exposure lengths for different filters then you are going to regret it when you come to taking your dark frames as you will need a set of at least 20 for each exposure length!

You have tiny pixels and a only 0.78 Arc-second / pixel image scale.......thats challenging, probably not possible unless you using very short <10second exposures with your EQ5 mount.

If using longer 30 second exposures (as I would recommend when starting out then you are best off binning all your filters 2x2, 1.56 Arc-seconds per pixel is still going to give you good detail and it will increase your image quality with limited data sets.

Do you have a electronic filter wheel? Or a manual filter wheel?

If you have a manual wheel then you are best off focusing between filters as you will likely disturb the focus when changing the filter.

So for LRGB I would go with all 30 second exposures at gain 100 and 2x2 bin for L, R, G and B, unless its a bright target in which case try gain 50. Then collect dark frames at the exact same settings with the camera outside before you pack-up! Really important or you will have a massive starburst amp glow pattern on one side of the image.

My prediction is that you will spend most of your first session focusing and finding the target though

You might want to just polar align, point in in a random direction and try to get a nice star field with round stars on night one.

If not and you do have trouble finding your target then try APT and use plate solving to help you locate the target on the small sensor.

Good Luck

Adam

 

 

 

 

Well my first session was none existent something happened lost all connections and couldn't find any cams and mount .? 2.5 hours of my life lost .wouldn't be to bad if was a bad image but NOTHING what the hell happened ?.lol see you all in a few days

[Adam J]

1 minute ago, Fieldsy said:

Well my first session was none existent something happened lost all connections and couldn't find any cams and mount .? 2.5 hours of my life lost .wouldn't be to bad if was a bad image but NOTHING what the hell happened ?.lol see you all in a few days

Put the all sky lens onto the camera and connect it in the house, run through as much as you can with the camera and setting and drivers inside and only stick it onto the scope once you have the bugs worked out. I do recommend APT for capture.