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Eyepiece projection


GKA

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Hi guys, tried some imaging yesterday With the full moon ,but it  didn't go very well ? , and after some google work i think i might need an extension.

But i'm wondering if the diagonal could act as an extension? didn't use it yesterday.

Used this one With both 10 and 25mm eyepieces in it. 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-1-25-Variable-Projection-DSLR-Camera-Adapter-Telescope-Eyepiece-Accessory-New/1063226978.html

 

 

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I'am using the sky watcher startravel 120 ,and why ? 

Because i'am a newbie , and because it was cheap ? but i have seen som good resultat though.

Would be nice with some detailed pics of the moon , even though this is not the ideal scope for it ,but you have to start somewhere.

I have tried some prime focus to,and that was better, but i have to work on the settings on my Canon EOS 1000D 

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1 minute ago, GKA said:

I'am using the sky watcher startravel 120 ,and why ? 

Because i'am a newbie , and because it was cheap ? but i have seen som good resultat though.

Would be nice with some detailed pics of the moon , even though this is not the ideal scope for it ,but you have to start somewhere.

I have tried some prime focus to,and that was better, but i have to work on the settings on my Canon EOS 1000D 

I'm just asking so I can give you better advice.

Eyepiece projection is usually used with newtonian scopes for shooting planets and when you want higher magnifications. It's used because it allows use of DSLR lens when there is no enough back focus to use it in prime focus. There are other uses for eyepiece projection as well, so I wondered if you have anything particular in mind.

If you are trying to image the moon with ST120, then it is better to stick with prime focus. You might not even be able to reach focus with Eyepiece projection technique without some sort of extender. Eyepiece projection adapter you linked, coupled with DSLR will give you large sensor - eyepiece distance, and that means very high magnification - you might be having trouble because of this. On very high magnification everything will look rather blurry.

Why did you not like prime focus that you tried? Was the Moon too small in the frame? If so, using x2 barlow will make it fill the frame - you will be able to do really nice whole Moon shots.

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I like the prime very much , and i will work on that , but i think i have to do something about the settings .

I tried the Barlow x2 but i didn't work out , probably a combination of the camera setting and me ?.

I really appritiate you taking the time to give me advices , it is much needed for a beginner like me ?

Here's the Picture i took yesterday With prime Focus. 

 

 

52602409_10213635285695846_6150060539834793984_o[1] (3).jpg

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I think you over exposed that a bit.

Here are few tips:

- shoot in raw format if you are not using it already - that will help with adjusting exposure

- set ISO to 400 or 800

- don't over expose your image. It's better to have couple of under exposed shots that you stack / combine to remove some of the noise, than single over exposed shot.

Otherwise it looks very nice - your focus is good.

You can take this a step further - by capturing multiple shots and stacking them. Relief of Moon looks better when the Moon is not full - take image when it's only partially lit - you will have better image of craters / detail. Next thing that you might try is to minimize chromatic aberration - it's now evident around the moon, but there are some things that you can do to lessen that, or even minimize it.

Build your self aperture mask for ST120. Stop it down to 80mm for example - this will reduce CA significantly. I used to have ST102 and even did some deep sky imaging with it. With aperture mask you can remove quite a bit of CA, here is for example Orion nebula I took with that scope:

m42.png

There is no blue/violet halo to be seen around bright stars. This is because I used aperture mask and simple #8 yellow filter.

Here is one image of the Moon that I found in my archive. This is also taken with ST102 (so "younger brother" of your scope) and Canon 760D:

moon.JPG

For this image I did not stop down the scope (I think) - and there is some bluish/purple fringing visible around the edge of the Moon, and some yellow on "the inside" of the edge. See how much more interesting moon surface can be when it is only half lit (at first quarter).

Experiment with above advice, try stacking couple of images - that will get you nicer image that you will be able to sharpen to get better detail. If CA is too much - stop scope down a bit it will remove some of it.

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Hi Vlaiv , those are the kind of Pictures i'd like to take , and thank you for the advices. i believe tha iso setting was 1600 in my picture, which is way to high.

Found a tread here about recomended iso settings on the 1000D and that was 200 (800) so i will Experiment some more once the clouds dissapear.

I have also bought a Bathinov mask , which i've already tried :-)

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