what do I need?

[spillage]

Hi All,

 

I have a eq5 and c6-n ota along with a 127slt (normally use the 127 ota on the eq5 mount). I have on route a canon 1100d (non-modified) and already have the t-adaptor but no filters or other kit.

I have been using my neximage 5 and the results are improving over time.

What can I expect to get from the canon using my ota's for dso images realistically. For now I cannot afford any more gear as my funds have ran out.

I am not expecting magazine images but just wondering if anyone else has similar gear with examples.

Also I am being a bit lazy but does anyone have a link to a good guide regarding dslr imaging and software guides.

 

cheers

Spill.

[bottletopburly]

1100 is a popular astro camera you wont be dissapointed i have the 1000d and the 1100 is a step up from that heres a link to damien weatherley flickr with 1100 earlier images are before he had astro modified 

 

[ronin]

Both appear to be Mak or SCT designs and really they are too long a focal length (too slow) for DSLR imaging, or the way that a DSLR is used in AP.

Not saying impossible but you are making life difficult.

A DSLR is used for long exposures, add an intervalometer or remote timer to set the exposure length. For long exposure time a short fast scope is preferable, for planetary imaging the long focal length ones are goos as you get a video not an image.

The guide normally quoted is Making Every Photon Count, although I do not have a copy so direct opinion is not possible.

Except for the scopes you are on the right track. EQ mount, I assume it tracks, DSLR+T-rings. You will want the remote time/intervalometer, also do you know how to set the DSLR up for fully manual operation.

Overly simple but you get the object in the middle, set the timer for say 20 exposures of 40 seconds each with a wait between each of 20 seconds and press the go button on the timer. Have been told that DSS (Deep SKy Stacker -free) will handle jpegs so you import the jpeg images and select the better one and stack It is better to stack RAW images but keep it simple initially.

There is bound to be one or two bits extra, like an extra camera battery and memory card.

[spillage]

cheers for the example bottletopburly.

 

Hi ronin

The c6-n shows as

Focal Length: 750 mm (29.53 in)
Focal Ratio: 5

so I guess should be better than the 127 but I know some scopes are not up to imaging.

The mak is I think an F11. Yes the eq5 is goto so good for tracking.

[ronin]

I have always assumed that a C6 is a 6" Celestron SCT, sound like they have changed it. It was some years ago, about the time of Galileo I suspect.

If f/5 then a refractor (?). If so attach the DSLR via T-ring to bottom end of refractor, you may need to remove the diagonal to get the image from the scope and the DSLR sensor to bump into each other. May also need to tweek the focuser in tightness to take the DSLR weight hanging off it.

Then it is really "playtime". Set DSLR to manual, set exposure to 40 seconds, set ISO to 1600, focus manually via something bright, blank off the viewfinder (stray light), take 20 images of the tracked object. Load into DSS and process.

I put it as simple as this, and it is overly simplified (and likely imagers are being rushed to a coronary ward as I type) but at a recent beginners course it started like this then came noise then gradients then darks, then lights, then R+G+B, then someone added in L. What the hell the stretching was I forget as there was just too much "advanced" information being throw at people. We were shown that this is where you strech an image then within 5 seconds off to another processing window for some other aspect. Also half or more of the presenters really just wanted to show off what they had done and could do. Very little seemed aimed at telling you how to do it. Literally 10 minutes of the first 2 hours was "how to", the rest was honestly "look at what I can do". Some never even tried the "how to" bit and stiuck to "this is what I have done".

My thought is get some exposures and on an EQ aligned tracking mount 40 seconds should be reasonable, get them in JPEG as it seems DSS handles these now and just get started/playing. Once "happy" take a small step and add in something. Half the time it will be just getting the camera set right and getting the intervalometer to work as required with it. Expect 2 goes for that, maybe 3. When in DSS it will say there are something like 10,000s point for alignment, first thing is get that down to somewhat less, think something like 100 or less was recommended. otherwise it takes all night to get the exposures lined up. You want it to take about 5 minuites maybe 10 before boredom from waiting sets in.

If you have Noise Reduction off it is easier but if it is On then the timer needs to accound for that. Otherwise the camera freezes (been there done that). Camera was doing an  NR exposure then the timer said take an exposure whie it was already doing one. Result was conflict and camera froze, so power off it all and start all over again.