Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b89429c566825f6ab32bcafbada449c9.jpg

Artemis Capture Histogram


Nathan_Pembs

Recommended Posts

Nathan, in my experience I tend to put the main peak of the histogram around 1/3 from the left, but that's probably as a result of being a photographer for many years and under normal photography conditions I put the peak a third from the right.

By the way, have you noticed any irritating behaviour from the histogram (Display Options) toolbar?  Mine jumps back to the centre of the screen after each exposure, which is annoying, and is starting to make Artemis unusable.  :-(

Have you had this?  If so, have you fixed it and how?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So with the histogram you can specify where the peak lands on the histogram for future exposures? (The red and green markers that run along the bottom). The peak on mine is always to the very far left.

Can't say I've noticed a problem with the display box, mind you I've not imaged much lately due to the lack of clear skies :(

Do you mean the box doesn't stay to one side if you move it, it just goes to the middle upon opening each time?

That would annoy me a bit too tbh.

One thing that really annoys me is the fact that Artemis freezes when downloading a sub longer than 5 minutes! Either I need more ram on my laptop or I need to start using Nebulosity instead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a new one!  Maybe add that to this thread.  I've just been running 300s exposures with my new Atik One 9.0 without any problems, but they were binned 2x2.  I'll try 1x1 next time and see if the same happens to me.

What I meant by "putting it to the left" was merely that I set the exposure length such that the peak of the histogram sits around one third from the left...if that's possible.  If it's a very faint object, I just take what I can get!  The RGB markers just indicate the cutoff and midpoint.

Remember that whatever you do to the histogram using the black/white sliders will be saved into the final .FITS frame (which I think is ridiculous - it's called Display Options, and should only affect how the subs are displayed in Artemis!)).  Personally, I prefer to capture all my subs with the sliders set to both ends (black to 0, white to 65535), make sure "Auto Stretch" is switched off, and then make any levels adjustments afterwards in processing.

If you don't do this, my experience has been that you have to basically perform a fresh set of darks for every session you do, if the black/white levels are inconsistent session-to-session.  Since I like to gather a darks library twice a year, I make sure all my exposures are done under the same conditions as those darks - same temperature, obviously, but also the display sliders.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.