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To mount a dslr at prime focus you use a T-ring that is specific to your brand camera. Canon is the better choice.

Only for the better windows software. Otherwise it really depends on the camera.

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You need a T-ring that fits the camera, so then no information from the lens simply because that is not present.

Need to set up the camera for fully manual - not always that simple.

The T-ring and camera fit where the diagonal goes.

It may fit where the eyepiece is or you may need to remove the diagonal as well.

Throw in that to get things at the right place you may need to remove the diagonal then add an extender.

Basically a bit of trial and error.

To get an image you really need a Remote Timer (Amazon) for your camera, it makes life easier.

Assuming you have an equitorial tracking mount you polar align that and then go image collecting.

Damn that makes iot sound easy. :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:

Set camera up for something like ISO 800 or 1600,

Exposure of 30 seconds - done on camera.

Then set a wait time of 30 seconds and try for 10 exposures <- done on the remote timer. The wait time is to allow the camera sensor to cool.

Some cameras have a noise reduction feature (it takes it's own dark).

If this is present and on then the exposure time is effectively doubled and the wait time should also be doubled.

Images should be RAW format to be stacked NOT jpeg.

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Be careful with DSLR noise reduction features, they aren't designed for astro and can quite happily eat up all the stars thinking they are hot pixels :o

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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