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Long Exposure For Deep Space Objects


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Hi All,

Long-time appreciation for Astronomy and sciences in general, beginner in practices.

I’m looking to put my kit together. I’m interested in deep space object photography and general photography. Below is the setup I’m thinking of getting.

Canon EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro Lens

Canon EOS 60Da Digital SLR Camera Body

Canon RC-6 Remote Control

Celestron T-Ring for Canon DSLR Cameras

Manfrotto MK394-PQ Tripod

Sky-Watcher Explorer-200P (EQ5 PRO) Parabolic SynScan GO-TO Newtonian Reflector Telescope

Sky-Watcher Tele-Camera Adaptor

Canon EF 17-40 mm F/4.0 L USM Lens

I’ve been doing some research but can’t seem to find an answer to this.

The setup above, will this allow me to track objects for long exposures? I believe the telescope has the ability to track objects but I’m not sure what software I need to make it possible.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

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This subject comes up quite often from time to time, so search / browse for similar posts, for example:

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/216198-skywatcher-200p-and-heq5/

The normal advice for imaging is to use a 200PDS version of the 200 P Explorer, and mount this on an HEQ5 as the mount has better precision and weight handling for guiding.

When taking images of deep sky objects it's normal to take lots of 3,5,or 10 minute exposures and then stack them using software such as deep sky stacker.  However, to get 3 minutes without any guidance you'll need to have the scope perfectly aligned with the polar axis.  This is why some sort of guiding is used.  This can be done by manually making small correction inputs whilst viewing a target star, or by fitting a small telescope with a guide CCD camera to the main scope.  You can connect the guideport output directly to the mount's port or better still use a laptop with PHD and EQmod running to do the guiding and control of the mount.  Connection between the laptop / PC and mount is via an EQDirect cable which can be made for around £15, or purchased for around £40.

Hope that helps

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The first thing to buy is this:

making_every_photon_count_cover.jpg

Read it cover to cover.

Then ask any questions that you are still unclear on.

Thanks Brown Dwarf, its been ordered. Hope it gets here soon, I want to place an order ^_^

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This subject comes up quite often from time to time, so search / browse for similar posts, for example:

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/216198-skywatcher-200p-and-heq5/

The normal advice for imaging is to use a 200PDS version of the 200 P Explorer, and mount this on an HEQ5 as the mount has better precision and weight handling for guiding.

When taking images of deep sky objects it's normal to take lots of 3,5,or 10 minute exposures and then stack them using software such as deep sky stacker.  However, to get 3 minutes without any guidance you'll need to have the scope perfectly aligned with the polar axis.  This is why some sort of guiding is used.  This can be done by manually making small correction inputs whilst viewing a target star, or by fitting a small telescope with a guide CCD camera to the main scope.  You can connect the guideport output directly to the mount's port or better still use a laptop with PHD and EQmod running to do the guiding and control of the mount.  Connection between the laptop / PC and mount is via an EQDirect cable which can be made for around £15, or purchased for around £40.

Hope that helps

Awesome thanks Malc-c. Am I correct in thinking this is the scope and mount you are refering to?

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Thanks Brown Dwarf, its been ordered. Hope it gets here soon, I want to place an order ^_^

This subject comes up quite often from time to time, so search / browse for similar posts, for example:

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/216198-skywatcher-200p-and-heq5/

The normal advice for imaging is to use a 200PDS version of the 200 P Explorer, and mount this on an HEQ5 as the mount has better precision and weight handling for guiding.

When taking images of deep sky objects it's normal to take lots of 3,5,or 10 minute exposures and then stack them using software such as deep sky stacker.  However, to get 3 minutes without any guidance you'll need to have the scope perfectly aligned with the polar axis.  This is why some sort of guiding is used.  This can be done by manually making small correction inputs whilst viewing a target star, or by fitting a small telescope with a guide CCD camera to the main scope.  You can connect the guideport output directly to the mount's port or better still use a laptop with PHD and EQmod running to do the guiding and control of the mount.  Connection between the laptop / PC and mount is via an EQDirect cable which can be made for around £15, or purchased for around £40.

Hope that helps

Arr ok I found these

SkyWatcher Explorer 200PDS Tube Assembly (10220) £249.00 SkyWatcher HEQ5 STANDARD Motorised Equatorial Mount & Tripod £499.00

I think in the long run it would be better for me to get a good guide and learn how to find objects manually rather than use a GOTO straight off the bat. If thats the case I can afford the above. Malc-c this is the correct setup you mentioned above, correct?

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Hi,

This was the scope I was referring to http://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/skywatcher-explorer-200pds-heq5-pro-goto-telescope.html

It's a lot cheaper than the same model from Wex photographic.  If you don't want go-to then the sytrex version of the mount is your best bet

Thanks Malcolm, I cant seem to find anything about sytrex on googles. Could you ref me to a link of sorts?

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Personally i would skip the Canon lens and put the funds into an Ioptron ZEQ25GT tracking mount for about $850.00. The standard tripod it comes with is more than adequate so skip the 2' version and the extra cost. Best mount ever made for under 1000 dollars.

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Thanks Malcolm, I cant seem to find anything about sytrex on googles. Could you ref me to a link of sorts?

That was a typo. There are 3 versions of the HEQ5 mount.

1. The older black HEQ5 with basic dual axis motors (nor goto or the provision for autoguiding)

2. The HEQ5 Syntrek. This mount is the same as the HEQ5 Pro Synscan but is supplied with a simpler handset. The Syntrek mount can be upgraded to full goto by either a Synscan handset or using EQMOD and an EQDIR cable.

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Personally i would skip the Canon lens and put the funds into an Ioptron ZEQ25GT tracking mount for about $850.00. The standard tripod it comes with is more than adequate so skip the 2' version and the extra cost. Best mount ever made for under 1000 dollars.

The canon lenses are for general photography, ill look into the loptron. Thanks Leveye

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That was a typo. There are 3 versions of the HEQ5 mount.

1. The older black HEQ5 with basic dual axis motors (nor goto or the provision for autoguiding)

2. The HEQ5 Syntrek. This mount is the same as the HEQ5 Pro Synscan but is supplied with a simpler handset. The Syntrek mount can be upgraded to full goto by either a Synscan handset or using EQMOD and an EQDIR cable.

Awesome thanks Cornelius.

Ive not looked into the Ioptron mentioned by Leveye yet but Im thinking the Syntrek Mount and 200PDS scope as mentioned by Malcom sounds like a win so far. It gives me the option of upgrading to GOTO at a later date for roughly £330.

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Will the GOTO version

That was a typo. There are 3 versions of the HEQ5 mount.

1. The older black HEQ5 with basic dual axis motors (nor goto or the provision for autoguiding)

2. The HEQ5 Syntrek. This mount is the same as the HEQ5 Pro Synscan but is supplied with a simpler handset. The Syntrek mount can be upgraded to full goto by either a Synscan handset or using EQMOD and an EQDIR cable.

Will the GOTO version be more benifical for tracking objects for photography? Or can I still automate this with the Syntrek?

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The Pro and Syntrek mounts have better motors than the basic HEQ5 (better tracking). For imaging they also have an advantage over the basic model in that they can be controlled from a computer through autoguiding software which can send small corrective adjustments to the mount through a separate port on the mount (usually called an ST4 port). A small telescope and guide camera are mounted on top of the main scope which sends a video stream back to the guiding software. Any drifting is detected by the software and corrective signals are sent back to the mount to correct the drift. EQMOD can also send the signals back to the mount, possibly saving one extra mount/computer cable to trip over.

The basic HEQ5 is now out of production again so the options are HEQ5 Pro or HEQ5 Syntrek. Each has its adavantage. The Syntrek version is cheaper but if you need goto you will have to connect it up to a laptop using EQMOD, an EQDIR cable and control it through a planetarium program (Stellarium or Cartes du Ciel)

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before you make the decision, you need to look at the wider picture.  What sort of imaging are you hoping to do.  We've all assumed you are hoping to do deep sky (nebula and galaxies) as you've mentioned long exposures.  Also where are you going to do your imaging from.  If you are lugging a lot of kit to a remote dark site then portability is a prime consideration.  The HEQ5 is the ideal compromise between portability and sturdiness, the choice of synscan goto or syntrek is more akin to whether or not you are going to guide or not, and how you are going to take the images.  If you are going to use the camera to store the images and use some manual / IR device to trigger the shutter then you won't need a laptop and thus a synscan goto can be helpful in locating targets.  However, if you intend to use some form of guiding then chances are you will need a laptop to run the guiding software, in which case the syntrek version of the mount would be ideal as you can then run one of the planetarium applications and control the mount via EQMOD and and EQDIRECT cable as previously mentioned.  This also has the advantage of being able to run software such as APT or BackyardEOS to control the Canon Camera and take charge of the imaging session.

To be honest, imaging can be quite boring when everything is running and your laptop is guiding the scope and controlling the camera as it runs of 30 or more 5min images, but the rewards are worth it in the end as you end up seeing far more detail than you can with the naked eye. 

Just to clarify one point.  The HEQ5 syntrek and HEQ5 synscan have the same high precision stepper motors, same motor control board and same power connection board.  The only difference between them is the handset that plugs into the mount.  The syntrek has a small handset with directional buttons and slew rates switches whereas the synscan has the computerised handset containing the database of goto objects and some other utilities.

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GoTo is a major bonus for imaging. I'd call it nearly essential. Why?

1) You are often imaging things that have never been seen in any telescope by anybody. (They are too big for large scopes and too faint for small ones but the camera can see them over time. That is the whole point of imaging.)

2) Time is incredibly precious and when you have a clear sky window you do not, not, not want to be faffing about finding things.

3) Taking cameras out and putting eyepieces in and then the reverse is an absolute no-no. You muck up you critical focus, there are implications for your flats, your camera orientation, etc etc. Don't do it.

4) Things go wrong, you lose your guidestar, the mount moves the scope, but you want to get back to your target. Go To. (Or you could take out your camera, lose your critical focus, put in an EP, struggle to re-find your target, replace your camera, re-focus it... oh look, it's dawn!) I do this for a living. I use GoTo...  :icon_salut: 

You seem serious about getting into this so think 'autoguider' from step one. It is a part of imaging life. You need it. It is orders of magnitude cheaper than buying a mount capable or working unguided at a serious level.

Don't spend a penny (on kit that is  :eek: ) until you have read Steve's book. Lots of things in imaging are very counter-intuitive and once you've spent it wrongly you've spent it.

Olly

http://ollypenrice.smugmug.com/Other/Best-of-Les-Granges/22435624_WLMPTM#!i=2266922474&k=Sc3kgzc

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GoTo is a major bonus for imaging. I'd call it nearly essential. Why?

^^This^^ A million times this.

Astrophography is hard enough to make you glad that you can find any area to shorten it and to remove one variable. GOTO makes finding the target a heck of a lot easier, which means that you get on with the job of collecting data sooner.

I'd recommend learning about EQMOD. it's such a brilliant suite of software and it can replace the handset. So you can save a few bucks by going for the cheaper Syntrek and buying an EQDIR lead instead.

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GOTO every time for me- imaging time is too precious.

To run EQMOD & do auto guiding you'll need a netbook or laptop. Personally I don't bother with EQMOD- I like the simplicity of the handsets. 

Good point.

I use a CCD and auto-guiding do I have a PC in the obsy. So it's simple for me to run EQMOD.

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GOTO every time for me- imaging time is too precious.

To run EQMOD & do auto guiding you'll need a netbook or laptop. Personally I don't bother with EQMOD- I like the simplicity of the handsets. 

I thought I was the only one! I have to say, though, that I'm being tempted into EQ Mod and plate solving, but that's another story.

Olly

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Guys thanks so much for all the info so far, I really appreciate it!

Cornelius

Do you have any more info on the small scope etc?

Malcom

Im looking to take image Deep Space Objects, nebula etc Ill be using a Canon 60Da. So id imagine the simplest way to achieve that would be to use guiding software and a scope as Cornelius mentioned?

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