Camera equipment help

[long_arms]

Hello,

Its been long enough so I'm going to buy a dslr for deep sky and widefield pictures and for non-astro use as well.

I've found some great deals on 350d's so I'll be getting one of those. I know it doesn't have live-view but I'll live

Never had a dslr before so please excuse me if I ask a daft question

Anyway,

looking for recommendations on some accessories:

T-ring...I'll be attaching it to my explorer 200p which I believe means I only need a t-ring and no t-adapter? Am I right? Recommendations for a t-ring?

Timer remote: I won't be wanting to use a laptop so I'll need a timer remote. I've seen various LCD timer remotes on amazon, are they all okay?

My Dad has some older M42 screw fit lenses; will any of the cheap M42 adapters be alright for using a 350d with those lenses? Or should I look for an adapter with a specific feature?

Thanks,

Dan

[Tinker1947]

You will find it difficult to focus without liveview and a Cannon 1100D reburbished cost around £250, slewing to another bright object the back again is one way, the remote controls work very well, i think you will need a adapter, somebody with a 200p will no better than myself.....

[long_arms]

Thanks,

£250 is more than double what I'll be spending on a 350d. I understand that liveview makes life easier but I dont mind.

[GaryG]

Dan,

I'd recommend the MaxDSLR adaptor from Ian King which is a 2" push fit to EOS so would allow a Light pollution filter to be screwed in (or use an eos clip type). This also has a wide throat so limits vignetting.

For timers have a look on ebay for a canon timer remote (made in china) - they go for about £15

Gary

[ollypenrice]

Live view is very helpful. However, make a Y mask, very simple, and give yourself a chance. Focus is the most critical part of camera capture. Don't try to focus just by looking at images of stars on the screen. It simply isn't a good enough method, however unreasonable that might sound. Take a mat with you so you can crawl semi comfortably under the screen. I've heard of folks taking out the camera to check focus and putting it back hoping it will still be in focus. It won't...

Olly

http://ollypenrice.smugmug.com/Other/Best-of-Les-Granges/22435624_WLMPTM#!i=2277139556&k=FGgG233

[long_arms]

Thanks guys.

If I unscrew the 1.25" adapter from the focuser there's a thread which I believe takes a t-ring. So I think I'm going to buy a standard t-ring and just give that a go for starters.

I won't have guiding until I do an st-4 mod which I'm putting off for a while, but will start doing a proper drift alignment and do some tests. I hope I can at least get good 1 minute exposures this way.

Live view is very helpful. However, make a Y mask, very simple, and give yourself a chance. Focus is the most critical part of camera capture. Don't try to focus just by looking at images of stars on the screen.

Thanks, I was going to make a bahtinov although a Y mask does sound easier and I've heard it works fine with a 200p and 350d? May I ask what length exposures I should do for this...would a few seconds be enough?

Also any good imaging targets for an unguided mount to start with from anyone ? Was thinking of maybe a cluster.

Dan

[Tinker1947]

Thanks guys.

If I unscrew the 1.25" adapter from the focuser there's a thread which I believe takes a t-ring. So I think I'm going to buy a standard t-ring and just give that a go for starters.

I won't have guiding until I do an st-4 mod which I'm putting off for a while, but will start doing a proper drift alignment and do some tests. I hope I can at least get good 1 minute exposures this way.

Thanks, I was going to make a bahtinov although a Y mask does sound easier and I've heard it works fine with a 200p and 350d? May I ask what length exposures I should do for this...would a few seconds be enough?

Also any good imaging targets for an unguided mount to start with from anyone ? Was thinking of maybe a cluster.

Dan

A Bahtinov and Y mask are used to focus the Camera, you need a brigh'ish star to focus on and the defraction spikes you see will show when focus is achieved this will mean moving your scope from a object get the DSLR focused and them moving back, a good GoTo will be required, useing a DSLR with Liveview will in most cases allow the object to be focus without moving the scope a semi bright star will show in liveview that can't be seen looking through the DSLR focusor, you can with practice focus on mag 9 stars, this is tight on the focusor but can be done, M3 would make a good Cluster to image, getting high in the East and a awesome sight.......