EssexMigrant Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Hi all,I've just bought another Tal M! This is the earlier gray jobby with differences to my later one. I can't at this moment get to my later one, and have a question. I seem to recall that the later version is collimatable, but this earlier one doesn't appear to be; is this right please? I've tried firmly to remove the end, and don't want to damage it, but I'm not sure whether or not it's stuck on with some form of glue. That wouldn't make sense, because surely access to the mirror is required occasionally? The only thing that makes sense in my mind, is that the cap should be removeable to get access to collimation screws?Any help appreciated.CheersMax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicnac Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 this is one for the group scouring the net to see what i can findgot an old manual here, its a PDF, page 11http://www.teleskopfreunde-bayern.de/tal-1M-Manual__engl_.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crunchard Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 I have an old grey Tal Alcor - the primary mirror appears to be welded in place, rather than a set of adjustable knobs that you would expect, so it maybe the same on yours?If I can find time I will post a pic of the mini-beasty in all it's glory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 As far as I'm aware all Tal Alcor's and M's have removable mirrors etc.I have one of the earliest Alcors(1993) and a 1994 'M'. Both grey.Both had a sort of putty over the setscrew pairs. Once removed, access to the adjusters is easy. I've got pics of them in page 2 of my 'Tal' album.Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 The cap will just be a tight fit over the end, I'd guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicnac Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Andy, you are the TAL ambassador Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssexMigrant Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 this is one for the group scouring the net to see what i can findgot an old manual here, its a PDF, page 11http://www.teleskopfreunde-bayern.de/tal-1M-Manual__engl_.pdfHi Nick,Thanks for that, but mine's the Tal M, not the Tal 1-M; although I do have a couple of those!CheersMax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssexMigrant Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 The cap will just be a tight fit over the end, I'd guess.Hi Andy,I thought and hoped you might be along; tragedy the group finished!Anyway, I found a pic of my original here:Stargazers Lounge - EssexMigrant's Album: The Unusual Tal-M - PictureI'm guessing this new (older) one is the same under the cap? Can you confirm that yours has a push fit metal cap that pushes off please?CheersMax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicnac Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 the scud look-a-like?TAL-Msorry, posted together it seems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicnac Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 found ithttp://www.teleskopfreunde-bayern.de/TAL-M_Manual.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssexMigrant Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Hi Nick!Thanks for those two links! When looking at the manual the penny dropped; I think that the cap on the mirror end is the tube cap! I don't think that there is a cap over the base? As soon as you or Andy confirms my suspicions, I'll make a more determined attempt to remove it.CheersMax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Plastic 'internal plug type' cap. Grey paint was peeling badly, so I stripped it off. Will repaint at some point.Rear cap, to keep out dust.Rear cell with longer screws and springs, to let std modern eyepieces, come to focus.Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Nice find on the 'M' pdf, Nick. I think that's the last of the older ones now. Have added it to the http://stargazerslounge.com/discussions-scopes-whole-setups/114397-tal-scopes-service-manuals.html page.Andy.ps: Note for Tal fans. When using the search function, varying the spaces etc can help find stuff that a simple 'Tal', may not. eg: Tal 1 Tal1Tal-1pps: with the Tal group in limbo, do you reckon it would be a good idea to have a thread in the main forum with 'Tal-centric' links? We had one in the group. Thoughts? Ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manx Engineer Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Great idea Andy! I have a couple of TAL Scopes and find it's a bit hit & miss searching the forum. Having said that the stuff I have found has been incredibly helpful. thanks ALL!!Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssexMigrant Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Thanks for that Andy, but still confused! Mine appears to be different again. It is a plain metal cap, with no fixing screws; here's a piccy: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 With the age of it, I'd guess it screws on to the tube? Tal seemed to like threading everything with their early stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssexMigrant Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 With the age of it, I'd guess it screws on to the tube? Tal seemed to like threading everything with their early stuffHi Andy!All I can say is, that there's no sign of any concealed screws anywhere on the rim. And thinking about it, it wouldn't make sense anyway. If this cap was going to be screwed on, it would be done with visible screws so that the mirror could be removed and cleaned. I'll get a hammer and wooden drift later, and apply a little county kindness to it!Will report backMax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Is the interior of the black cap and the exterior of the grey tube threaded? Just a thought before you give it a whack.Sure is a strange one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicnac Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Got to admit, im thinking the cap itself is threaded, leading to the whole cap being unscrewedOne for the crystal maze me thinks, where is Richard o Brian when you need him Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssexMigrant Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Hi Andy!As there was no sign of threading, I went ahead with the hammer plan! Bingo; it worked! This cap was just forced on very tightly, and I had to work it very slowly loose, by applying even taps in forty five degree increments. Eventually the countersinking for the screws came into view, so I could judge squareness. The first thing I noticed was 'bodged' screws; some idiot not using the right sized screwdriver. Clearly this had been removed by a previous owner. However, all the seals on the collimation screws were intact. The mirror was loose enough to move in the cell, but the retaining clamp screws were tight; no pinched optics! I first dusted with a camel hair brush, and then breathing on the surface clearly saw the odd grease spot, and condensation marking. So, using my usual method of cleaning, one small drop of washing up liquid on a cotton rag tissue heavily moistened, I proceeded to wash the surface. Having satisfied myself that the mirror was sufficiently clean, I then lightly dryed the surface with a sweeping motion of the surface and checked it. It was as close to perfect as possible, with the only visible sign a very minor scratch that had been caused somehow in it's earlier life.I have now replaced the cell, and cleaned the secondary also, which was worse. A question here, were the secondary mirror's edges painted silver at the factory?My next job is to clean the sighting mirror, and then collimate.Number one question, am I right in thinking that this cap should be on that end as a dust protector? Also/or is a plastic cap missing, and this metal cap the tube cap??Any help guesses appreciated.Maxp.s. note the number Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssexMigrant Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Richard o BrianYou're showing your age Nick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssexMigrant Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Looking again at the manual, I think this cap is number five in figure 6. I'm guessing that the original plastic (?) mirror dust cap was either broken or lost?What do you think guys?Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Result !!Jeezo. So it was a bodge job by a previous owner !! Regarding mirrors. Tal mirrors are unpainted at the edges. Caps - I was missing a front cap with the off axis hole in, for solar viewing. Yes I think the rear cap is to prevent dust getting in. Sounds like it was lost and this metal one was used instead.Actually I got my 'M' for buttons. It was missing the EQ/alt-az mount head, barlow and sleeve. Bizzarely I got the filters, screwdriver, brush, wrench and flowery dessicant bag, as well as the low profile 32mm o/d 15mm & 25mm eyepieces.Still not 100% sure how Tal number their scopes. I think it's the model serial number in the quoted year? Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicnac Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Hmm, maybe. Whoever had it before messed with the screws so who knows what other blue peter jobs he didAnd oi! Cheeky sod! I ain't that old lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssexMigrant Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Yes I think the rear cap is to prevent dust getting in. Sounds like it was lost and this metal one was used instead.Thank for keeping an eye open Andy! OK, so do I gather from what you say above, that there was definitely a PLASTIC dust cap on the mirror end, and the metal one is the tube cap?CheersMax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.