Earl Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 A little backgroud to the camera im using.I use a QHY8L and this has a shutter issue which means subs have to be over 4 seconds.I have Bias, Dark Flats and Flats.I calibrate the Dark Flats with the Bias MasterNext I calibrate the Flats with the Bias master and the Dark Flat Master.Then Integrate the calibrated Flats and I get....I must be doing something wrong here.I does look like its going in the right direction though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 Should I not use the bias frames twice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfdesigner Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 It's best to think about what each image contains:Dark = dark current + bias (long dark frames)Flat = bias + flat_signal (assuming it's a short exposure)Bias = bias (short dark frames)So Master_Dark = Dark - BiasMaster_Flat = Flat - BiasTo process image ( subs = dark current + bias + signal * flat )Image = ( subs - Bias - Master_Dark ) / Master_FlatHope this helpsDerek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 Cheers for the info Derek, but how do Flat Darks fall into that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfdesigner Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Flat Darks.. Just so I know what you mean.. what do YOU mean by a 'flat dark'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 As my Flats are over 4 seconds I have a set of Darks to match them.Dark Flats according to DSS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfdesigner Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Ok.. I'd treat the 'flat-darks' as bias frames... the dark current in them is going to be all but zero.In maths:lets assume dark current is 1e/s and readout noise is 10e.primary CCD noise = SQRT(readoutnoise^2 + dark_current/s * exposure_time)So 10e readout noise and 1e/s dark current means your noise will double (in power terms) when the imaging time is 100 seconds. If you have a 50 second imaging time it would increase the 'glow' by only 0.22 magnitudes.. with a 4 second 'flat-dark' your CCD noise is utterly dominated by readout noise.Don't believe me?.. (and scientifically speaking you shouldn't) take some 4 second darks, average them, then take some 8 second darks average them, then subtract the two images and inspect the result.. you should see very very little.Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin_h Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Try just using Darks, Flats, and Bias. Dont do anything to them beforehand, just chuck the lot into DSS with some Lights and see what happens.If you are going to use Dark Flats dont use Bias. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 If you are going to use Dark Flats dont use Bias.It does look like the images have had Bias added to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 If I use DSS with just Lights, Flats, Darks and Bias I get this.DSS was fine when i was using my Canon, but using a CCD im having no joy :|Stretched using STF in PI and saved as jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 If I use PI to do all the magic I get this (after DBE) without flats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin_h Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 If thats the case, it looks like there is something wrong with the flats then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfdesigner Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 I use IRIS. Although it includes menu options that 'do it all for you' I prefer to use scripts as I keep control of what it is I'm doing.I'd suggest doing something similar, I'm sure DSS must be able to run scripts or something.Derek(I do similar things at work, I hate kit that tries to be clever.. it frequently gets it wrong and you're left wondering what to do.. much better to build your own automated script then you have it all under your own control and understanding) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 If thats the case, it looks like there is something wrong with the flats then.heh... thats my whole point.However exactly what is the issue is beyond me this is a single flat debayered grey scaled then stretched Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfdesigner Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 I wouldn't debayer prior to flatting/dark removing etc etcTry treating it as a B&W camera until you've corrected the entire image.... THEN debayer it. (particularly important for darks.. you will be able to correct hot pixels much better)Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 HummIs it me or are these big circles reflections also.....I have come to the conclusion that the flats are scrap.But that still does not answer why there is all the edge stuff going on which has to be amp glow and other related issues.I need to sort out this reflection issue, which also showed up in a thread i posted with m45. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgarry Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 If I use DSS with just Lights, Flats, Darks and Bias I get this.DSS was fine when i was using my Canon, but using a CCD im having no joy :|Stretched using STF in PI and saved as jpgThat is interesting, I get exactly the same problem when I use DSS with images from my QHY8L. It used to work just fine with my DSLR though.I now use Astroart 5 for stacking and it does actually work with images from my QHY8L.Cheers,Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin_h Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 How do you take your flats? I have the QHY9 which has a shutter and use over 4 sec exposures.I would give the sensor a clean and re-do the flats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 I use a lightbox, again use a longer exposure due to the 3.97 issue.Most advice I have read on flats does not cover the issues i have with the qhy8l.Im going to strip it all down and have a look to see if i can see whats going on.when i was using a dslr. switch to AV snap snap done.. :| Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin_h Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Why dont you drop Mike Wilson a pm...he uses the QHY8l... Stargazers Lounge - View Profile: MikeWilson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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