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Advice about taking flats


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Brian, flats are a chuffing pain. Only bother if you really need to - vignetting, dust bunnies. Probably the quickest and easiest is to get them at dust with a cloudless sky just before the stars start appearing. Point the scope at a clear bit high up and start exposing. Leave the tracking off to avoid having stars show up - you can then eliminate any trails by doing a median combine. The scope must be focussed perfectly on infinity - best left set from a previous session. The exposure time is important and is very dependent on your camera - basically you want to be at about 1/3 to 1/2 the brightness at which the pixels saturate which depends on something called full well capacity. As a rough rule of thumb an 8 bit brightness level of 128 in photoshop or 30 000 in Maxim will be fairly close.

The T - shirt method sounds straight forward as well. The only set up I have that needs flats is the NS8 with fastar and SXV H9 but since the camera is mounted on the corrector plate the T-shirt doesn't work! DSLRs usually need flats because the chip size makes them prone to vignetting.

How you apply them depends on your software.

here's a link with a lot more info http://www.iceinspace.com.au/index.php?id=63,211,0,0,1,0

Just remember though - only bother with them if you have a problem, they do degrade the image slightly.

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